How to make a window opening in a log house. Frame of window and door openings in a wooden house. Step-by-step installation of a wooden window

A house built of wood undergoes certain changes throughout its operation. It can dry out, shrink and return to its previous parameters. This feature does not allow windows and doors to be tightly secured in the opening, as is done in structures made of concrete and brick. To insert frames into openings, a window frame is made in wooden house. It is also called the casing or window frame to which the frame or door is attached.

What is a wooden window casing?

In the modern construction market in Lately Often there are houses made of logs, panels or timber. These include bathhouses, country houses, and country houses. Despite the fact that new technologies make it possible to create innovative building materials, environmentally friendly wood remains in demand. In addition, such structures have a beautiful appearance.

A feature of wooden buildings, which is called shrinkage, occurs under the influence of temperature factors. Wood can absorb water and dry out over time. The most vulnerable modules of the house are windows and doors, or rather, their openings. Such building movements can impair their functionality or lead to complete destruction. To avoid this, a special technology for their installation is used, in which a window frame is inserted into the opening. It is a wooden box made in a special way.

The technology for installing windows in wooden houses involves installing a frame

The casing includes: a window sill board, a top and two sidewalls. The boards used for its manufacture are about 25 cm in size. Choose a material that has a moisture content of approximately 10%. You should not take drier wood, as it may have cracks invisible to the eye, as a result of which it will begin to collapse as the building shrinks.

Classification of types of casing for wooden structures

Experts classify structures into several types, taking into account different characteristics.

The cheapest and easiest way to construct a casing is an embedded block

Depending on the shape of the casing, they are divided into:

Casing "mortgage block". This is the most inexpensive type of pigtail. A box is made from an ordinary board, the thickness of which is 30-50 mm. A groove for the beam is cut from inside the opening. This simple design It assembles very quickly, but it is worth remembering that, having chosen it, you will have to finish the slopes after installing the window.
U-shaped, they are also called “in the deck”. This classic look is made by cutting a tenon into the end of the wall onto which the vertical elements of the frame are installed. The frame moves along them as it shrinks. This design allows you to relieve the load on window and door openings and allows the frames inserted into them to function correctly. The pigtail is impregnated with an antiseptic solution and insulated between the tenon and groove. To prevent drafts, a wind lock is made under the window sill. Soft insulation is laid over the upper part of the casing.
T-shaped casing or, as it is also called, “spike”. A groove is cut in the end part of the opening, the side parts of the box are made with a T-shaped profile. On the casing risers, you need to glue bars that provide stiffening ribs that hold the casing in a certain shape. When making this type of box, you must strictly adhere to the technology. Do not fasten the bars with nails or self-tapping screws, this will affect the freezing of the opening. Be sure to treat the wood with an antiseptic and insulate the seams with a special material.

The type of pigtail and installation method are selected in accordance with the structural features

The type of casing is chosen depending on the structure. A professional will tell you which one is best to do in a particular case.

In addition to the listed types, builders distinguish the following types of casing:

Draft. This type is inexpensive and suitable for buildings whose openings will be finished in the future.
Finishing. If you choose this option, you will not have to finish the slopes in the future.
Eurosurface. This type will require additional finishing of the slopes. A special feature is the use of adhesive material made from solid pine slats.
Power. Experts recommend using this option in an arched opening, as well as for panoramic windows and balcony blocks.
Arched. This option is used to strengthen arches. They are made from either solid wood or glued timber. The cost will depend on the type of material from which the casing is made.
Combined. When using this type of frame, you need to know that the base of the box is made of coniferous wood, and the top layer is made of oak, pine or beech board. This casing option is more expensive.

Purpose of casing in the construction of wooden structures

Such an element is mandatory in the design of the entire house. Its absence leads to the fact that the window opening can completely collapse under the influence of shrinkage of the house. In addition, if the wood dries out significantly, cracks and gaps will appear between the frames and the wall of the building, which will lead to large heat loss and drafts.

It is very important to use a socket if there is a small distance between the windows. A design made according to all the rules will become a decoration for your wooden house.

The window frame protects the window opening from destruction when the house shrinks

Please note that casing for a wooden window is not always suitable for PVC frames. If you decide to replace old wooden windows in a wooden house with plastic frames, you need to pay attention to the frame during dismantling. If it is not suitable for a new plastic window, then it must be dismantled and a new one installed, carefully following the technology.

Properly installed frames made of PVC material will serve you for a long period of time. And if you choose the color of the film covering the plastic structure, which resembles natural wood, this will allow the products to look harmonious, combining with the entire wooden structure.

Making a pigtail with your own hands

Before you create a casing with your own hands, you need to prepare the tools for work:

jigsaw;
sander;
drill;
chainsaw;
screwdriver

The first and important point is the choice of window design (plastic double-glazed windows or wooden windows), the choice of casing depends on this. If plastic frames are installed, a support threshold will be required. With wooden windows, such a threshold is not needed.

On the sides of the opening you need to cut a groove for the timber, which will protect the logs from moving out. In this way, you get a kind of runners along which the logs slide without putting pressure on the window.

The upper part of the casing is installed last

Installation is performed as follows:

the lower part is being installed;
side elements are attached;
Finally, the upper part is attached.

A gap is left between the top of the frame and the opening to compensate for the shrinkage of the structure. Insulation material is laid along the perimeter between the casing and the wall. You should not use polyurethane foam when installing the pigtail..

Having finished installing the box, proceed to installing the frame. If the frame is plastic, then you need to cut out a wooden layer along the outer part of the opening. This will create a stop for the plastic window and will not allow it to deform.

The parts of the casing are connected to each other in the following ways:

wedge connection;
self-tapping screws;
studded connection.

Thorn socket with ready-made slope

If the box is connected with self-tapping screws, be careful that they do not get stuck in the wall logs. Having completed the installation of the box, they proceed to installing the window and finishing the outside and inside. The slopes and window sill are made of plastic if the frame is made of plastic. When installing wooden double-glazed windows, the slopes can be plastered. On the outside of the window, the ebb and frames are fixed.

Technological stages of casing installation

For successful installation of the pigtail, compliance with the technology will be a prerequisite:

an opening is cut in the wall, which is located at a height of 80 cm from the floor;
a groove or ridge is cut out - this depends on the type of casing chosen;
all wooden elements are impregnated with an antiseptic solution;
insulate the opening around the perimeter using thermal insulation materials.

The casing is installed with mandatory compliance with the technology

To order the manufacture of plastic frames, measurements must be taken after preparing the opening and installing the casing. This avoids incorrect sizes.

Features of creating and installing boxes for plastic frames

When installing a pigtail in a wooden structure, you need to know some of the features of its installation. The box can have a width of about 26 cm. It is also possible to use a larger width, but this sometimes causes cracks to appear in the casing. It is recommended to make the box using materials whose humidity is 10-12%. The drier the raw material, the more likely cracks will appear..

To install PVC windows, a complicated version of the casing is used

When installing plastic frames, a more complicated version of the casing is suitable. A carriage with grooves is made and the ridge is cut out.

The structure, assembled from timber with grooves for the comb, is called a carriage for the pigtail. The size of the grooves is made so that the frame can easily slide along the guides when the house shrinks.

The price for making casing depends not only on the size of the opening, but also on the raw materials from which the house itself is built (log house, log or timber). To get a quality product, you should order it from trusted builders. To make a casing with your own hands, you need to understand all the nuances of the process and purchase the required tool for the job.

When starting to install windows made of plastic profiles into wooden walls, please note that they cannot be inserted without a frame. It will help create conditions under which the frame will serve you for a long period of time without deforming or requiring repairs.

In general, door and window openings in the walls are installed immediately after installing the frame of a wooden house on the foundation. This is initially done by the construction team according to the project. But there are situations when it is necessary to make a door or window opening in a wooden house that has already been completely built. Most often this is due to the need to construct an additional doorway so that warm air from the heating system of a wooden house quickly penetrates all rooms of the house. Well, or I just wanted to cut out an additional window opening.

It is quite natural that the more solid the wall, the easier it is to create an opening in it. More precisely, it’s not so much simpler, but faster and at the lowest cost. It all depends on the material from which the wooden house is built.

Door and window openings in a wooden house made of logs or timber

After all, in order to create door or window openings in the walls of a wooden house made of logs or timber, not much is needed. This is a plumb line, a long ruler (the longer, the better. A meter-long straight line will do just fine), a marker or pencil with a thick lead, a hammer, nails and a regular gas or electric saw.

Just in case, it’s also worth preparing 100x100 mm bars. the height of the room, that is, 2-2.5 meters long - more about them later.

There are times when, when cutting through a door or window opening, the wall of a wooden house begins to bend in one direction or another. If such a problem occurs, through holes for bolts are drilled in these bars and the wall of the house at equal distances from each other. Then the prepared bars are placed against the wall of the house on both sides (sometimes only the inner side is sufficient) from the deflection, and the protruding part of the masonry of the house wall between the bars is tightened with bolts.

Construction of openings in wooden houses

Then the work of sawing the opening in the wall of the wooden house is resumed, and after installing the frame, these bars are removed, since the frame itself strengthens the window or doorway.

For your information. If your wooden house is made of logs, then the openings must be arranged, leaving not the whole, but 1/5 or 2/3 of the logs at the top and bottom of the opening. This is done to ensure that the framing of window and door openings is done correctly in the future.

Installation of a casing (casing) in the opening

Read more about the construction of the frame (casing) of window and door openings, the use of a cranial block and the installation of windows and doors in a wooden house in this article.

Important. Before sawing an opening, make sure that there are solid logs or beams above the future opening, which will evenly distribute the future load on the walls along different sides opening.

For your information. If the frame of a wooden house is assembled from laminated veneer lumber, then when sawing, the boards glued together may peel off. To avoid this problem, boards are nailed to the walls of the house on both sides of the opening.

Doorway in a wooden house made of timber

Door and window openings in a wooden frame house

In order to make an opening in the wall of a frame house for a door or window, in the place of the proposed opening you will first have to get rid of the cladding, both external and internal, and remove the entire internal pie of insulation, etc. That is, in fact, it is necessary to leave only the frame made of beams .

Then a frame for the future window or door is arranged between the load-bearing vertical posts, and the remaining sections of the wall are sewn up again.

Construction of a window opening in a wooden house

As you can see, if available the necessary tool, skill and desire, it is not at all difficult to arrange an additional door or window opening in a wooden house. The main thing here is the right place in the wall, a steady hand, unhurriedness and the help of one or two people.

log-cabin.ru

Replacing windows during the reconstruction of a wooden house. Part 1. - Blogs

I will continue the series of articles on the reconstruction of old wooden houses. In the previous ones I talked about replacing the old foundation, floors, and raising the house. Today I decided to talk about replacing windows.

There are two replacement methods. The first one is simple: take out the old windows and put new ones of the same size in their place. But in old houses, as a rule, windows were not large in size and large quantities. In my practice, I had to meet on a wall measuring 4.5 meters in length, three windows measuring 75 cm each, and that’s together with the block! In my opinion these are very small windows. They are more reminiscent of loopholes in fortifications than windows in a house.

I'll tell you about the second method. The first step is to decide on the size of the new windows. Everything here is individual and according to taste. You just have to estimate the size according to the wall and the size of the house. There must be harmony in everything, otherwise there will be no beauty. Next, it’s worth preparing new walls. (A pier is part of the wall of a log house. It can be taken from an old house, if one is available and fits in size. Or cut down from new material.) In both the first and second cases, you just need to prepare the piers or materials for them, but Don’t rush to saw or chop until you figure out the dimensions.

We have prepared the materials, now we begin the replacement. (Don’t forget to prepare polyurethane foam. Moss or tow is also preferable. I don’t like using polyurethane foam in log houses) And so, let’s consider a situation where out of three windows on one wall you need to make two. First of all, we take out all the windows along with the blocks. Then we knock out the two resulting walls between the windows. Just don’t be afraid, the house won’t sag, won’t fall, nothing bad will happen to it if you remove these two walls. For safety and peace of mind, you can put up supports or nail down beams.

The next step is to install the windows in the resulting opening in their future places. We fasten them, but lightly, and it is advisable to install only blocks, without frames. It's safer for glass. While this is a preliminary installation, correction will be required later. The only thing that will not be adjusted is the height. This is why we place blocks according to level.

If the windows do not fit in height, you can lay a beam or log along the entire length of the opening. Or vice versa, cut out the lower or upper log. There are a lot of options, it all depends on what level you want to install the windows.

poremontu.ru

Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house

Installation of plastic windows in wooden houses: what are the features

Owners of wooden houses know firsthand that such buildings have their own characteristics that distinguish them from brick ones. Therefore, to install plastic windows in them, you need to know certain nuances. This is exactly what this article will discuss.

Features of wooden houses

Undoubtedly, a high-quality wooden house will serve its owner for a long time. This is a cozy building, which is a comfortable option for an environmentally friendly home. But it also has some features. These are the ones that should be taken into account when installing plastic windows in such houses. Here are the main nuances:

General instability of wooden houses.
The "floating house" problem.
Shrinkage.

In fact, this is all one problem, but called by specialists in different terms. It lies in the fact that the walls in houses made of wooden beams can sag on their own for another five or more years. But for those who decide to install plastic windows in such a home, there is still a way out - to make a special immovable structure for the window openings. In this way, you can avoid shrinkage and subsidence of the opening itself, because it will remain in its original position, thanks to the stationary casing structure - the casing.

Functional features of plastic windows

A plastic window is usually called a structure that consists of two main elements:

PVC frames with built-in metal profile for strength;
double-glazed window (there is no air between the glass panes, it is completely pumped out).

This design is completely sealed and has its own functional features that distinguish it from ordinary windows. Let's call them:

Protection from adverse weather conditions (eg cold, heat, wind, rain).
Soundproofing properties.
Ideally fitted windows eliminate possible distortions.
Long service life - up to fifty years.
Minimal maintenance, which includes periodic lubrication of the hinges and cleaning them.
It creates an interesting design solution in wooden houses, since there are many different profiles of plastic windows on sale, differing in colors and models.

Also especially important is the possibility of installing such window structures with your own hands, not only in brick and concrete houses, but also in wooden ones.

Rules for choosing plastic windows for wooden houses

When choosing plastic window designs for installation in wooden houses, the following criteria should be taken into account:

quality of manufacture of all components of the finished structure;
compliance of the product in its parameters with the conditions that exist in wooden houses;
positive reviews about the manufacturer and supplier of this product.

Therefore, the first step is to decide which window profile is most suitable for your home. To do this, take into account the following features of plastic window structures:

Thermal insulation, while paying attention to:

blogforbuilder.ru

Install a plastic window in a wooden house.

When you build or repair a wooden house, various difficulties may arise, for example, when working with the foundation, or installing a plastic window. The subtleties of foundation work, of course, require a serious attitude, but any hardworking beginner can handle them. But the question of how to install a plastic window in a wooden house requires a serious approach and it is better to entrust this process to a professional.

However, there is a special technology, following which you can install plastic windows in a wooden house yourself. Now we will briefly talk about it.

Preliminary work

Before installing a plastic window in a wooden house, you need to dismantle the old window, clearing the window opening of construction debris. In this case, you must try to work with caution so as not to damage the wooden wall. It is better to immediately remove the old window frame from the room so that it does not interfere with the work. Make drawings in advance that indicate the height and width of the window structure being installed; this needs to be done as accurately as possible, because this depends not only on the timing of the work, but also on how long a plastic window will last in an old wooden house.

Install a plastic window in a wooden house. Installation rules

At its core, installing a plastic window into a wooden wall is not much different from standard window installation work. You just need to strengthen the wall to minimize shrinkage phenomena.

When starting to install a window, you need to have on hand:

Hammer tool or electric drill.
Screwdriver and screws.
Anchoring plate and mounting foam.
Spacer wedge and hammer.

It is easier to install plastic windows in an old wooden house with help; it is almost impossible to do this troublesome job alone, which requires precision and attention. And the small weight of the window frame plays a role.

Since wooden buildings are susceptible to shrinkage phenomena, before installation, reinforce the window opening with a frame or casing. This minimizes the pressure of the walls on the window structure during shrinkage processes. Next, we install the central riser and form an inter-riser opening. We install risers using a level. At the bottom, the riser is installed in the grooves, the upper part is attached to the logs with a galvanized plate. Small gaps filled with soft construction foam should be left between the installed frame and the logs. This will soften the pressure of the walls on the frame.

Having installed the window structure in the opening, strengthen it with the required number of screws, treat all cavities and cracks with construction foam. Step-by-step execution This technology will allow the installation of plastic windows to be carried out efficiently and reliably. From this, to a large extent, appearance new windows and their service life.

mnogovoprosov.ru

How to lay a window in a wooden house: step-by-step instructions and video

How to install a window in a wooden house if you need to get rid of it on the wall is not very often of interest, but it does happen. This can happen if you want to divide a large room into smaller rooms. There may be a lot of extra windows in the corner room, so it would be appropriate to make the decision to get rid of them. Otherwise, in the summer there is a risk of excessive exposure sun rays indoors, and in winter it can be quite cool.

Getting rid of the window

First of all, it is necessary to completely remove the unnecessary window in the wall. This process begins by removing all fasteners, after which it will be possible to remove the window frame. After this, it is worth getting rid of all sorts of protruding parts, particles of solutions from previous installation work, as well as other elements that may interfere with the further work process. A large rectangular hole appeared in the wall.

Dismantling a window opening

Frame and sheathing

To create a light wall directly inside the main wall, you first need to make a frame. The material is selected in accordance with the material from which the building is made. In this case it is a wooden frame. In no case should you skimp on nails, because it is they who must securely and firmly hold this structure in the wall.

In order to remove an unnecessary window opening, it is necessary to attach slabs to the frame; these can be OSB slabs. They are long-sized shavings, subsequently compressed high blood pressure. Each subsequent layer of such chips is located perpendicular to the previous one, which subsequently helps to provide such structural elements with increased level strength. These boards are distinguished by a homogeneous structure without knots, which is significantly superior to the structure of plywood. Thanks to this, the boards have high strength and durability. It is also worth noting the addition of formaldehyde to the mass of parts, due to which the slabs become environmentally friendly.

OSB type boards

Insulation

When the wall is completely covered with the above panels, the structure should be insulated using basic materials. Here are the main types of possible insulation:

Warm seam - used when laying walls without planning finishing different types decorating plaster. This method can help reduce the thermal conductivity of masonry joints and wall joints. The material is naturally placed between the wall bars.

Warm seam

Mineral wool - the material has good thermal insulation properties, helps absorb noise and contains environmentally friendly components.

Mineral wool

Foam plastic - helps create a favorable microclimate in the room and protect the walls from the cold.

Styrofoam

Note! When insulating the walls of a house from the inside, mixtures such as ecowool, wet plaster and polyurethane foam are used.

Moisture insulation

At this stage, a drainage system or special insulation impregnated with resin should be prepared. This process helps to protect the wall from water and moisture entering the room. Due to this, the resulting moisture will flow down the walls. The insulation needs to be carefully secured; for this purpose, plastic nails are often used.

Attention! Be sure to ensure that cracks and crevices do not appear during moisture insulation.

Facing

Finally, all that remains is to veneer the wall from the outside, after which it will be completely ready.

The inside of the wall is covered with plasterboard. An important process is the alignment of joints. If you do not have the skills to work with this material in this direction, you should seek help from specialists.

Considering the possibilities and taste preferences owners, you need to paint the wall or put wallpaper on it.

Features of laying a window from timber

From the above information follows the answer to the question of how to cover a window in a wooden house with timber. Moreover, if the walls of the structure are built from wooden beams. It is recommended to select these elements with a thickness corresponding to the standing walls. It is worth noting that the beam is considered a ready-made log, which only needs to be secured and connected to other elements. They contribute to rapid construction and ease of wall construction technology. Also, walls made of this material are not able to sag and are quite economical option compared to a log.

Scheme for laying a window with timber

If you are interested in the answer to the question of how to install a window in a wooden house, a video is provided below for your reference.

This section describes the main stages of the work and, most importantly, a description of how to properly install a window in a wooden house. After all, a structure made from this type of material has a lot of advantageous characteristics. It is worth noting the ability of wood to pass oxygen into the building and the low thermal conductivity of the material. Also, a house made of wood has the ability to assemble and disassemble the structure itself, so sealing the window opening yourself does not cause any difficulties. From a material point of view, such structures are cheaper for the owner.

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The casing is essentially a protective element in the design of a window or door opening, which ensures the safety of the geometry of the windows/doors. A casing or window frame in a wooden house is a kind of buffer between a heavy “living” wall and fragile glass. The correct casing will last as many years as the house itself.

The need to line openings is determined by the very nature of a wooden house. Let us explain in more detail - the vast majority of log houses/timber houses are built from wood with natural moisture content (that is, no one specially dries the logs before construction). This wood begins to gradually dry out, while decreasing in size. Accordingly, the walls “sit down” in height.

The process of house shrinkage lasts for years. But even after 3-5 years, no one will undertake to guarantee that the openings will not leak in the future. Therefore, since ancient times, windows and doors in wooden houses were installed with casing boxes - they were then called decks.

Painting by Vasily Maksimov “Interior view of a hut”, 1869 - a door surrounded by a log.

Modern casing is a technological thing, perfectly suited for installing plastic and aluminum windows, heavy balcony blocks, metal entrance doors. Let's take a closer look at what types of casing are now popular, methods of its manufacture, and installation scheme in openings.

Types of casing

The classic casing block looks like the letter “P” from the end. Now this form of casing also remains the most popular. In timber houses with thin walls, casing with the letter “T” has become popular. Separately, it is worth highlighting the casing in the embedded (cranial) block. These are 3 main types of casing boxes.

For each of these types, different profile geometries have also been developed - with or without a quarter cut, with a slant, or antique. According to processing methods and purpose, they also distinguish between rough and finishing casing, Euro casing, power casing, arched casing, carriage casing, semi-antique casing, and plywood casing. There are even combined options, when the outer layer of the product is made of valuable wood.

Let us consider in detail each type of casing.

Casing with the letter "P"

The casing box shape has been proven for centuries. Sturdy, reliable. It is most often installed in log houses and houses made of rounded logs. Typically, a quarter is selected from the outside of the casing for installation of a window or door frame.

Requires the formation of a tenon in the wall.

Casing with the letter "T"

T-casing appeared on the market relatively recently, when profiled timber with cut bowls entered the market. At the ends of the openings of such house kits, a groove was already selected from the factory.

T-type is used mainly in timber houses with a wall thickness of 100-150 mm, and log houses made of rounded logs of small diameter. Requires cutting a groove in the wall. In a high-quality T-pipe, the spike is glued into the body, which greatly increases the rigidity of the product. It’s even better when the tenon and the main one are one.

Casing in a mortgage (cranial) block

Defective T-type casing box. The embedding block is usually used at the stage of cutting or assembling a log house so that the openings do not warp. After construction is completed, a wide board is attached to this beam with self-tapping screws, to which the frame (window, door) is attached.

If you use regular lumber from the market (not kiln-dried), then there is a high probability of being remade in the future. Reasons: the block is pinched and bent when the frame shrinks, which causes it to jam in the groove and stops the shrinkage. When the board dries, it warps the frame. The block is pressed against the board only at the points where it is fastened with self-tapping screws - it bends relative to them, and the casing begins to blow through.

From the practice of our company, per year our teams remodel up to 80 other people’s properties, where windows and doors were installed in embedded bars. The photo shows a real case.

Rough casing (for finishing)

An inexpensive option for frames for log houses and log houses where further finishing is planned. All parts of the casing can be made from solid wood or using the adhesive method; polishing of the products is not performed. Profile shape T or P, quarter not selectable. Plastic windows are placed on an installation profile, the window sill is plastic, and the slopes are usually also made of PVC. Inside and outside the opening is finished with platbands.

The window is installed on a plane (without making a groove).

Finishing from solid wood

Must be made only from high-quality and dry wood. Most often from ordinary pine after forced drying, Karelian pine, cedar, larch, KELO cracker. U-type profile shape, with or without choice of quarter. Looks great in hand-cut log houses, houses made of thick logs, gun carriages.

Euro casing (finishing glue)

A popular option for finishing casing (which does not require finishing of slopes). It is made using the glue-type method from dry bars - glued into a sheet (with knots) or into a micro-tenon (without knots). The profile of the euro casing can be P and T type, straight or with an extension into the opening, with or without a quarter.

Antique gun carriage casing

Casing box made from KELO carriage - for high-status houses and baths, hunting lodges. It does not require the installation of platbands - the seam between the casing and the wall is caulked and closed with decorative rope. The visible part of the casing is skillfully aged (firing, brushing). P-type casing profile, options with or without quarter opening, with expansion of openings into the house.

Antique casing (with platbands)

Classic European casing is fired and aged using the brushing method (during processing, the soft fibers of the top layer are removed, the surface becomes rough, but polished). T- and P-type profiles, quarter cuts, and opening expansion are possible. Wooden trims are made in the same style.

Combined casing

The base of the product is made of solid pine, and the top layer is made of a composite adhesive board, which can be made of pine, oak, beech, and valuable wood species. The combined casing successfully combines a reasonable price and aesthetic appearance. The profile of such casing can be P or T type.

Plywood casing

The technology for manufacturing a plywood casing is the same as for LVL timber. The plywood sheets are glued together securely. The tenon in the T-profile can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.

The plywood casing can be used as a rough casing (for finishing).

How the casing is installed

IN general view, the process technology is as follows:

an opening is cut in the wall
a tenon is formed on the sides of the opening or a groove is selected
the opening is insulated with jute tape
a wind block is laid at the bottom of the opening and a window sill is mounted
risers are installed
the top is mounted
the free space above the top is sealed with soft insulation

Differences in the installation of door and window casing

The door casing may be missing Bottom part– threshold. In this case, the bottom of the risers is bolted to the lower crown/beam.

The lower part is always present in the window casing. But its appearance may differ. The following options are possible:

in the rough casing the lower part is not visible. The window sill is usually plastic, matching the color of the frame.
in the finishing/Euro casing, the lower part acts as a window sill. In this case, the casing can move inside the room and to the sides of the opening, forming so-called ears.

The video shows the entire process of installing a door casing in a timber house (T-type, with the formation of a tenon in the wall):

The technology for installing casing in a timber or log house is the same.

Manufacturing of casing

High-quality casing should be made of dry wood (forced drying in drying chambers, output humidity 8-10%). Boards and timber from the construction market are not suitable for these purposes, precisely because of the high humidity.

Pine wood is most often used, as it is the most common and inexpensive. Spruce is also used. Exclusive options are also possible - cedar, larch, Karelian pine, KELO crackers.

The basis for the solid casing is a carriage with a thickness of 50 mm or more. For P-casing, a carriage of 90 mm is used. The width of the casing board is equal to the thickness of the wall.

The adhesive casing can be with or without knots. In the first case, the prepared bars are glued together on their sides - this method is called sheet gluing. Knot-free casing is assembled from short bars, which are glued together at their ends - into a microspike (looks like a comb).

How to calculate the size of the casing/opening

Let's say that you want to install a plastic window measuring 1 meter in width and 1.2 meters in height in a log house with a wall thickness of 150 mm. At the same time, only technical openings have been cut in your house. Let's do the math.

First, you need to decide on the type and thickness of the casing. For the selected conditions, casing with a T-shaped profile, glued “in-situ”, 55 mm thick, is ideal. The window sill will be plastic, which means the lower part of the casing can be taken with a smaller thickness - 45 mm.

If the frame is installed without a quarter (on a plane), then the width of the cut opening should be 15 cm greater than the width of the frame (1.5 cm for foam, 0.5 for jute, 55 for the riser). The final width of the opening is 115 cm.

With a quarter, the width of the opening will be +12 cm, the total - 112 cm.

What happens if you leave the openings WITHOUT casing?

Answers to the most frequently asked questions

A wooden house or bathhouse changes in size all the time - it either “sits down” a little, then rises again. Therefore, simply taking and rigidly fastening windows and doors into the openings will not work: either the frames will bend or the walls will “hang” and will not be able to sit down when they dry out. To prevent this from happening, a wooden casing (casing or casing) is installed in the opening, which is held in place only by friction. It is already possible to attach a window or door frame to the elements of this box.

First, let's look at the casing profiles. Fixation due to friction is ensured by a simple tongue-and-groove lock. In one case, a tenon is made on the logs/beam of the opening, in the other, a groove is cut out.

If your bathhouse is wooden - a frame made of logs or timber, then the technology for installing windows and doors will be exactly the same as in the house. No difference. So everything described applies to the bathhouse.

Monolithic casing boxes

The counter part is often made from a solid wooden beam. They are also called monolithic or finishing. Depending on whether the groove is cut or a tenon, the mating part is made U- or T-shaped. Please note that when installing windows or doors, the fasteners should not go into the beam/log of the wall. To ensure proper reliability, the frames are mounted in the “thickest” parts of the casing.

The casing is made of timber, in which a groove is selected or a tenon is cut. Accordingly, casing/edge profiles are U- or T-shaped

The material for the casing is monolithic or laminated veneer lumber. The use of laminated veneer lumber in bathhouses is not recommended: when using non-moisture resistant glue (and this usually happens), constant changes in humidity cause the glue to break down and the timber to crumble. Therefore, it is better to use monolithic timber of the required size. Just note that the timber must be dry - no more than 12% humidity. If it's wet, it will crack or warp. Order chamber-drying timber of the required size from the sawmill, or dry it yourself in the shade in a draft for 4-6 months.

This type of casing is called monolithic or capital. You can already attach a window or door frame to it. If the windows/doors are plastic, the “face” of the casing can be left flat. If you plan to install wooden products, choose a quarter for them.

Which of these two casings/pipelines is considered the best? When done correctly, both perform their tasks normally. Everyone chooses what is easier for them to do.

How to make a tenon on an opening

There are two options - first cut a tenon in the doorway, then make a casing block under it. The second option is to mark the tenon along the finished groove. In any case, markings are applied first.

The width and depth of the tenon should be 4-5 mm less than the dimensions of the groove. The casing is “planted” on the insulation, so space is required for it. The width is marked at the end of the logs/beams, the depth - on the side surface of the walls. When marking, it is important to maintain the verticality of the lines.

Next, take a circular saw or chain saw and make cuts according to the marks. In this case, it is important to maintain the required cutting depth on the side surfaces and not cut off the tenon completely. If you are not very good with a chain saw, it is better to use a circular saw - you won’t be able to cut very deep there.

For an example of the formation of a spike, see the video.

Making a groove in the opening

It’s safer to make a groove: even if the cuts are too deep, you don’t have to remove the entire core; in extreme cases, you’ll make the tenon on the post larger.

Everything is simpler here: you mark the width of the groove at the end. In this case, it is 4-5 mm larger than the groove on the casing/pipe. Make two cuts and remove the middle between them. There are virtuosos who do this with a chain saw, but mostly they work with an axe, then they work part-time with a chisel.

Manufacturing of casing

The casing consists of two sidewalls (side posts), a top - the top board and a window sill or threshold (also called a bottom). It must be said that the lower part is not always present: it is often not made in interior doors. In some cases (when installing PVC windows, for example), they do not make a window sill, but simply a lower embedded board, to which a “standard” window sill is then attached.

Also note that the top does not rest against the top edge of the window or door opening. There remains a gap of 5-7 cm between them - for shrinkage of the log house. This gap is then filled with insulation and covered with platbands and finishing materials.

The most questions arise when forming the locks necessary for joining parts of the casing. These elements are especially difficult if a quarter sample is required. It’s difficult to explain in words, let’s provide drawings. Take a look at them and maybe you’ll understand what’s what. But the final understanding will come in the process: when you put the bottom and attach the side posts. They are outlined with a pencil, then gradually cut out. In this process, it is important not to cut off the excess - it won’t be possible to grow it and there will be unsightly gaps.

Before installing the casing, the window/door opening is treated with an antiseptic. Then two layers of insulation are laid. The structure is “dressed” on it. The procedure for assembling the casing on the windows is as follows:

The lower part is installed.
Place two side panels and check that the locks match accurately. You hit it well on the sides.
Place the top. Often it “doesn’t fit” - the racks are closer than necessary. Don't take up the saw right away. Take spacers of the length that the opening should be, and with their help bring the window to the required dimensions. First, place it diagonally, then, knocking it out, straighten it out. The sidewalls crush the insulation and occupy the required position. After which the apex falls into place.

Rough casing or embedded block

One of the varieties of piping, when a groove is cut into the opening, is inserted into an embedded block. It differs from a monolith in that it consists of two parts - the actual embedded block, which is inserted into the tenon, and a separate casing board. The casing board is attached to the embedded beam, and the door frame can already be attached to it (it can also be attached directly to the embedded beam).

Please note that the embedding block and the tenon under it are made a little larger than in a monolith. This is necessary to make the fastening more reliable. When fixing windows/doors, fasteners must be chosen so that they do not go into the wall.

Of course, this option is much easier to implement. But they don’t really like it: its reliability is still much lower than that of a monolith. But it can also be used for light doors and any windows. Another possible use is as a temporary option only for the period of shrinkage after the openings have been cut out and the frame has been left to dry. If the openings are not secured, the walls may twist. In this case, embedded timber is an excellent solution.

A groove is cut out into which the timber is driven. It is no longer held in place by anything - no nails, no self-tapping screws.

Photo report on the production of the finishing pigtail

The work was carried out in a log house that had been standing for a year. We used purchased kiln-drying timber and the remnants of profiled construction, which had been drying along with the house for a year. The casing is monolithic U-shaped. The width of the tenon was approximately 45 mm. This distance remains if you make a cut circular saw on both sides of the wall. In order not to modify it later with a chain saw, it was decided to make the tenon wider. Its height is 35 mm. The spike under the bottom/window sill is 1 cm high. Its task is to prevent a draft from occurring.

We start by preparing the openings. First, cuts were made in the side planes of the walls using a circular saw. There were no problems with vertical cutting, but when cutting horizontally, the saw kept trying to go up and down. Be careful in this part.

Then we take a chain saw and modify the tenon. This is the most responsible and delicate work. We make the first pass from top to bottom. Its depth is only 1-2 cm. All subsequent ones are from bottom to top, gradually increasing the depth. In order not to mess up, we used a step-by-step algorithm: first we made the cut with a circular saw, stepped back 0.5-1 centimeter from the cut, cut it with a chain saw, and brought it to the required depth with a grinder and a plane. Long, but reliable.

The opening is ready. Let's start making the casing. The first thing we do is the bottom-window sill. We make a groove in it with a depth of 10*45 mm. Also, do not forget about the protrusions: the window sill must “fit” onto the wall.

Now we make the sides. They are made of 200*100 mm timber. It was adjusted to size and polished. The groove was formed using a milling cutter. It could have been done with a circular saw - it would have been faster, but less accurate.

After using a circular saw, a quarter is made - its size is 70-30 mm.

Next you need to cut out the locks. On the sides, those that go to the bottom, are simple. All you need to do is cut off 20-40 mm on three sides. If, like me, there is a quarter, then on this side we cut out less to the depth of the quarter, i.e. cut out 10 mm (40 mm - 30 mm = 10 mm). Now the spike is ready.

Next, we place it on the lower part, trace the outline with a pencil, and remove all excess. The castle is ready. Having installed everything in place, we see quite decent gaps. Now the task is to bring them to a minimum through gradual adjustment. The main thing here is not to cut off the excess, since it is impossible to increase it. Therefore, little by little we polish and try on, polish and try on.

When the bottom locks are ready and adjusted, you can cut the sides. They should not reach the top of the opening by 6 cm. This is how we cut it.

We make the top itself in the same way as the side posts, then cut out a quarter of it. You'll have to tinker with the lock. There are two conditions:

The distance at the top should be the same as at the bottom. We adjust all the dimensions of the spike based on this postulate.
Then we also outline it, but the shape here is much more complicated. It is advisable to cut it so that there are no through connections, so that air does not have the opportunity to freely enter from the street.

That's why we make stepped cuts.

When the mold is ready, the fitting begins again by sanding. We work gradually, slowly. When the desired result is achieved, we disassemble the box, sand it, and round the edges. In general, we bring beauty.

After sanding, we cover all parts (including openings) with antiseptics. After drying, the casing elements can be painted in the required color. In any case, you can go through the paint once.

While everything is drying, we place jute tape in the opening. There is no tape covering the entire width of the casing; it was laid in two parts with an overlap in the tenon area. Apply a layer of sealant on top of the insulation.

First, they laid the bottom (it was never possible to install it on jute - it was torn off during installation, but the voids were filled later). The sides sat down, but with difficulty. But the top part didn't fit at all.

We take the spacer, first set it obliquely, then use a hammer to make it more horizontal. The sides are moving little by little. As a result of these manipulations, the upper part also fell into place.

After installation, the spacers “settled” and the upper part of the casing

To prevent it from moving, we install wedges. They are removed after installing window or door blocks. This is what happened as a result.

I decided to install a door in my wooden house, but... a house made of timber, which shrinks by about 0.5 - 1 cm per crown, and is also sensitive to temperature, i.e. breathes, then inserting the door rigidly will disrupt the natural shrinkage of the wooden house. In order not to damage this and not to change doors/windows several times (due to shrinkage and clamping of the opening), casing is used.

The casing allows you to make the opening sliding (floating), i.e. the frame will shrink and slide along the casing without pinching the door/window opening.

There are several types of casing, but I prefer a tongue-and-groove sliding bar. The groove is made in the wall, and the tenon is a block nailed to the opening box. I will tell you about all this further...

So, there is this opening:

I will be inserting the front door, so I remove the film and mark the opening with a pencil using a level. I took the following dimensions: my door frame is 900x2000 mm, so 2 cm for foam, then 50k board on both sides and 1 cm for jute (for caulking) + 10 cm for shrinkage, the resulting opening is required: 900 in width +(20+50+5)*2=1050 mm and height 2000+25+25+20+20+5+100=2195 mm. Total 1050x2195mm. Posted by:

Take a chainsaw and cut out the opening:

This is how it looks in all its glory :)

Well, then, we begin to cut out a groove in the wall. I will use a 45x45 block, so I make the groove 46mm wide. My wall thickness is 150mm, so I measure the opening width along the entire length (height) of the groove in the center, mark it with a pencil and cut it out with a chainsaw. I’ll say right away: the chain must be good, because... Because of the stupid chain, I lost half a day while cutting out the opening and the left groove. Then I realized that the chain was dull, I replaced it with a new one and the work went very quickly. It turns out like this:

In fact, it is not so easy to make an even and high-quality groove, but “patience and work will grind everything down”! :)

This is such a beautiful groove. Next, we prepare the boards for the vertical casing posts. I took a 50k (50x150x6000mm) pine board, measured 2 boards in it to a length of 2095 mm and cut them. Because I will use a 25-piece board on top and bottom for expansion, then on the edges of the vertical posts I cut out these corners measuring 25x25:

up and down. Then I measured the length of the groove, subtracted 15cm for shrinkage, cut the block to this length and placed the block in the groove:

To reduce the cold bridge, there should be insulation between the block and the vertical post; I used jute. Using a stapler, we shoot the jute onto the vertical posts:

Now is the most crucial moment, while the block is standing in the opening, we bring the vertical posts, rest them against the lower crown of the opening, use a level to set the vertical alignment and use self-tapping screws to secure the block through the vertical post in 2 places. We take out our entire structure and tighten a few more screws into the block. I used 76mm wood screws. It should look like this:

Then I decided to insulate the groove, and used a stapler to staple the jute:

There is just a little bit left :) we insert our vertical posts into the grooves, lay jute on the lower crown of the timber and spread it out from above and below with 25-gauge boards. We attach our design with a 100mm self-tapping screw to the lower crown of the vertical stand. It turns out like this:

general form

on the left and right (between the wall and the casing) there are small gaps for caulking

The casing is ready! Now you can insert the door. The upper space is filled with mineral wool and closed on both sides.

This is the door I installed:

Now I can use the door without any problems. Next up is the casing for the windows and balcony block on the 2nd floor.

Here are the finished casings for the first floor windows (view from the inside, the windows are covered with film from the outside before the windows are installed):

Installed windows:

Results: using tongue-and-groove casing, we do not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house, do not hang out the timber, and do not jam door/window openings. Thanks to this casing, you can immediately install doors and windows in a wooden house, rather than waiting 2 years for the entire frame to shrink.

For aesthetics, I installed a casing on the front door

The next step is to make cash on the windows

I hope my article is useful to you. Ask questions in the comments.