Peonies leaves are brown and have no color. The main diseases of peony. How to cover a tree peony for the winter

The name "chamomile" came into Russian from Polish language. Back in the sixteenth century, the Poles described the plant as "Romanov flower".

Chamomiles: varieties and cultivation

People call daisies several plants from the Asteraceae family that have white petals - popovnik, pyrethrum, three-rib, etc. It is cultivated in European countries Anthemis nobilis, or the noble navel. In terms of its medicinal properties, it is close to chamomile. A variety with double inflorescences is grown as an ornamental plant. Reproduction is carried out vegetatively, since no seeds are formed in double inflorescences.

Pyrethrum

Perennial herbaceous plant from the Asteraceae family. Height 5-150 cm. Two types are cultivated:

• Pink feverfew, also known as Persian chamomile. Height 20-60 cm. Leaves are simply pinnately dissected. The marginal flowers are pink.
• Pyrethrum red is called Caucasian chamomile. Unlike Persian chamomile, it has double-pinnate leaves. The marginal flowers are pink or red.

Growing conditions

Both types of chamomile grow wild in the mountainous regions of the Caucasus. These are perennial sun-loving plants, but they also tolerate partial shade. They are resistant to cold and tolerate frosts down to -5 degrees. They grow well in a variety of soils, except sandy and flooded soils. The greatest decorative effect is achieved when grown on loose, fertile soils, forming large bushes with luxurious bouquets of inflorescences. Caring for adult plants is not burdensome. This includes timely watering, light loosening of the soil under the bushes, and fertilizing if necessary. Caucasian chamomile tolerates temporary drought conditions, but the growing season is shortened. On fertile soils with sufficient moisture, a second flowering is observed in late summer.

Reproduction

Pyrethrum is propagated both by dividing an adult bush and by sowing seeds. It is better to sow in the fall before winter. The seeds will undergo stratification under natural conditions and friendly shoots will appear in the spring. If autumn sowing is not possible, for example, due to purchasing seeds in winter, you can carry out artificial stratification and then sow seedlings indoors. During the first summer, young pyrethrum plants will grow a rosette of basal leaves, and flowering will occur in the second year in July.

Note

Both types of pyrethrum have insecticidal properties and are poisonous to insects. They are harmless to humans and warm-blooded animals.

Nivyanik, or popovnik

It is often called garden chamomile.

Growing conditions

Perennial rhizomatous plant. Prefers sunny places. When shaded, weakening of the plant and poor flowering are observed. Needs fertile soil. Winter hardiness is high.

Reproduction

When growing any varieties of garden chamomile, after three years the bush thickens with weak shoots around the perimeter and the shoots die off in the middle part of the bush. The inflorescences become smaller and lose their decorative effect. To rejuvenate the plantings, it is necessary to replant the bushes every three years, using young shoots with roots as planting material. Best time for transplanting garden daisies - September, but later dates are also acceptable. It is also possible to plant daisies in the spring. At seed propagation Garden chamomile is sown both in autumn and spring. Flowering of plants obtained from seeds begins in the second year of life.

Varieties

Breeders have created many varieties of garden chamomile, which differ in the size of the bush, the diameter of the inflorescences, and the number of petal flowers in the inflorescence. There are varieties with double and semi-double inflorescences. The largest variety, Nivnyak, is popular among gardeners (Leucanthemum maximum), having a meter-high bush and a diameter of inflorescences of 13-15 cm. Flowering from July to September. There are also low-growing 10-15 cm garden daisies (Leucanthemum aipinum), which are great for rock gardens.

...The summer garden is flooded with streams of hot rays of the sun. Even in thick shadow sunbeams miraculously manage to break through the dense foliage of trees and play among shade-tolerant plants.

And on open areas In a garden at the height of summer, the scorching heat does not spare the greenery of many plants - rarely do any of the garden inhabitants benefit from excessive heat. Therefore, for summer flower beds you need to select such unpretentious plants, which are not afraid of the heat of the sun, do not look dull in the middle of summer, and bloom well. One of these hardy ornamental plants- anthemis dyeing.

Miniature of the Sun and terrestrial continuation sun rays The bright yellow “daisies” of Anthemis tinctalis seem to me. This plant is also called dyeing belly button.

Antemis tinctalis in the garden and in a bouquet

Antemis dyeing(Anthemis tinctoria) belongs to the Asteraceae family and is a frost-hardy rhizomatous perennial native to Europe.
This plant received its specific name due to the content in all parts (and especially in the inflorescences) of a dye that colors the fabrics a rich yellow color.

Anthemis has long been introduced into cultivation and is successfully used as an ornamental, spicy and dyeing plant.

This type of anthemis forms an erect, densely branching bush with beautiful openwork leaves and an abundance of golden flowers with a diameter of 3-6 cm. At the end of each branch of the bush there is a large chamomile-like inflorescence.

The height of the anthemis in a flowering state is about 60-80 cm, and in very favorable conditions it can reach a meter.
The pinnately dissected, green with a grayish tint leaves of this plant are very decorative, so the anthemis is beautiful even without flowers. Its long and abundant flowering decorates the garden all summer; In autumn, fewer inflorescences are formed.

Very good for landscaping and cutting are elegant varieties of Anthemis tinctalis:
- “Holland sauce” with very pale creamy inflorescences;
- “E.K. Buxton" with lemon-cream inflorescences (short, height 60 cm);
- “Wargrave” with pale yellow petals and a darker center of the inflorescence;
- “Grellaga Gold” with rich yellow inflorescences.

Antemis dyeing is successfully used in landscape design. It is used to decorate rock gardens, rocky gardens, mixborders, borders. The bright yellow spots of abundantly flowering anthemis bushes look attractive among stones, against the background of a green lawn, and in flower beds of different styles.

Cut branches with anthemis flowers fill the room with bright summer colors and a pleasant fragrant aroma. A bouquet of neat golden “suns” of anthemis seems to radiate solar warmth and light, retaining freshness and fragrance for a long time.

The fragrant inflorescences of anthemis can be dried for the winter to be added to a potpourri of fragrant herbs.

Reproduction and cultivation of anthemis

Growing anthemis tinctalis does not present any trouble for gardeners.
This plant is light-loving and exceptionally drought-resistant. It grows well on any (even very poor) soils and easily tolerates excess lime in the soil. Antemis blooms best in moderately fertile, well-drained soils.

Due to its unpretentiousness, Anthemis tincium easily tolerates replanting even of adult plants. Therefore, using anthemis, without the risk of losing it, you can easily change the configuration of flower beds every year.

After each wave of flowering, anthemis needs severe pruning of faded branches. This helps restore the decorative appearance of the bushes, accelerates the development of side shoots with many flower stalks, and also prevents excessive self-seeding.

Antemis is easily propagated by seeds, green cuttings in summer, and by dividing the bush in autumn.

The serrated achenes of the anthemis have excellent germination, therefore this plant Even a novice gardener can easily grow from seeds. Sowing anthemis into the garden can be done in the spring or with freshly collected seeds in the fall.

The bright inflorescences of anthemis, pleasing to the eye, bring a sense of celebration to the garden.
In the rainy season of late autumn and cold winter evenings Memories of sunny blooming anthemis in the garden and hot summer will warm you. And the desire to quickly wait for the new gardening season and warm summer days helps to more easily overcome any adversity in life...

Miroslav Stepanovich Gumenyuk (Vinnitsa, Ukraine)
www.miroslav.vn.ua

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How much grief wilted flowers bring. This short guide will hopefully help you recognize the disease and cope with the infection.

Gray rot, or botrytis, affects the stems, leaves, buds and flowers of peony. Young shoots growing in spring are especially damaged.

The disease manifests itself as a sudden withering of young peony shoots, which break at the base and fall. Near the surface of the soil, the stem turns brown-black and rots. Later, the stems may also wither and die, and rot from the base of the stem rises up to 10 cm. Large, brown, spreading spots appear at the tips of the leaves.

Peony leaves become deformed and dry out. Small buds turn black and also dry out. Larger buds, when affected, stop growing, acquiring a brown tint; sometimes flowers bloom only on one side. When infection penetrates into the roots, they begin to rot. The development of the disease is facilitated by cold, rainy spring and summer, and sudden changes in temperature.

The disease develops more intensely if peonies are planted on heavy clay soils and in areas with close lying groundwater, on plants covered in autumn to protect them from winter frosts with manure or not opened in time, on thickened, poorly ventilated plantings.

Measures to combat gray mold. Diseased parts are destroyed as they appear. In autumn, peony stems are cut and burned. Two sprayings are carried out: at the beginning of the growing season (the appearance of buds above the ground) and after 10-12 days, at the same time thoroughly moisten both the peony bush and the soil under it with a 0.6-0.7% solution of copper oxychloride or 1% Bordeaux liquid. Consumption: 2-3 liters per bush.

Brown spot, or septoria. The disease appears on peony leaves in June in the form of bilateral brown-brown, round or elongated spots with a darker rim. At first, the spots are single, scattered, then they merge and change color to brown with an ash-gray tint.

First, the lower, older leaves are affected, then the disease spreads higher up the stem, and with severe damage, the leaves dry out completely, but for a long time don't fall off. Septoria blight has an adverse effect on the flowering of peonies and, by weakening the plants, on their winter hardiness. The development of the disease is favored by rainy and cool weather in spring and summer. Measures to combat septoria are the same as for gray mold.

Rust. In mid-summer, rusty spots of various sizes and shapes appear on the upper side of the leaves. On the underside of the spots, small yellowish-brown pads of fungal spores form. Affected leaves curl and dry out.

The intermediate host of this disease is Scots pine. In humid, warm weather, rust is especially rampant, causing leaves to dry out as early as July, weakening plants and negatively affecting winter hardiness and flowering next year.

Rust control measures. During the growing season, peonies are regularly fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. When the first sign of the disease appears, the affected leaves are removed from the plant and the plant is sprayed at intervals of 10-14 days (alternately) with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture and a 0.5% solution of copper oxychloride. In autumn, stems with leaves are cut and burned.

Brown leaf spot. In the first half of summer, large brown spots appear on peony leaves, which gradually grow, merge and often cover the entire leaf. Gradually, the spots darken, become dark brown, and the leaves look as if they were burned. Sometimes stems, buds and flowers are affected.

Elongated reddish-brown spots form on young shoots. The entire stem darkens and becomes covered with smoky sporulation of the fungus. The buds turn brown, the petals fall off and fall on the leaves, causing them to become infected. In humid weather, a smoky, velvety coating forms on the underside of the leaves in the center of the spots.

Measures to combat brown spot. In autumn, peony stems are cut and burned. When the first signs of the disease appear, the plants are sprayed with copper preparations.

Ring mosaic of leaves. On peony leaves, rings and half-rings appear between the veins that are lighter than the normal color of the leaf. The leaves create a characteristic blurred marble pattern. By the end of the growing season, these marble spots become necrotic. The disease spreads during vegetative propagation of peony.

Measures to combat peony ring mosaic. It makes sense to destroy diseased peony bushes only if single plants are infected by the virus, since this virus only affects peonies, in general, without weakening them too much and without affecting other crops. A well-groomed, properly grown peony to some extent fights the disease itself, at least it can drive it into a latent (hidden) form. They fight against root-knot nematodes.

Powdery mildew. Peonies are affected by it in late summer. A rare cobweb coating forms on the upper part of the leaves. Fortunately, this disease on peonies does not cause much harm and does not occur too often.

Measures to combat powdery mildew. It is possible to spray plants when the first signs of disease appear with a solution of soda ash and soap.

Phyllosticosis. Initially, small brown spots with a dark purple rim form on the peony leaves. Later, the spots increase in size, become round or oblong, become lighter in the center and become covered with numerous convex dark dots. When the disease develops strongly, it causes premature drying of the leaves. Control measures are the same as for gray rot.

Root rot. The disease is detected during transplantation or when peony is propagated by dividing the bush. The roots and rhizomes of diseased plants turn brown, rot and die. A whitish, grayish or pinkish coating forms on the surface of rotten roots in conditions of high humidity. The source of infection is the soil, as well as diseased rhizomes.

Control measures. When dividing the bushes, rotten roots are carefully cut out to healthy tissue; the rhizome is disinfected for half an hour in a 1% solution of copper sulfate before planting. The cut areas are rubbed with crushed charcoal.

Should you rush to trim and cover peonies for the winter? How will this affect the health and further flowering of the bush? and Ito hybrids are prepared for overwintering differently than. The above-ground part of herbaceous peonies dies off by winter, but the plant continues to live. Our task is to create optimal conditions to save it.

In dry autumn, it is possible to cut off the peony stems as they die

Timing for pruning herbaceous peonies

The herbaceous peony is a perennial flowering plant whose shoots and leaves die off in the fall. In some bushes the above-ground part turns yellow and lies down, in others it dries up, maintaining a vertical position for some time. Only then do I start pruning. Of course, we are talking about healthy, not sick peonies.

The shoot of a young herbaceous peony wilted after the first autumn frost

The time to trim the stems of herbaceous peonies depends on the specific climatic conditions. This is either the end of September or the beginning of November, it all depends on the weather. There were years when in the Moscow region, in early October, rivers froze and snowdrifts appeared. In other years, and re-bloomed in November. In mid-October 2016, our lilac bushes tried to bloom. The average time for pruning herbaceous peonies is mid-October, if there have been no frosts before.

Early pruning. In herbaceous peonies, two waves of root formation are observed: spring (April-May) and summer-autumn (August-September). Therefore, too early dates pruning (in early September) does not allow the rhizome to accumulate nutrients coming from the foliage. This leaves the weakened perennial plant vulnerable in winter. Such a plant will bloom worse. Premature autumn pruning shortens the period of preparation of the peony for wintering.

You can clearly see what early pruning and warming of a herbaceous peony bush leads to during a long, rainy autumn.

Late pruning. Another danger lies in wait for a peony when pruning the above-ground part of the bush is belated. Especially in cold, rainy autumn, when dried stems and leaves quickly rot. This can cause damage to the rhizome.

When pruning, I leave short (2-3 cm) stumps. They will mark the place where the bush grows, protect the buds, but will not interfere with the spring growth of shoots.

After pruning, I collect all the plant debris with my hands, and then superficially loosen the soil around the bush and.

Winter shelter for herbaceous peonies

Zoned herbaceous peonies can withstand winter hardships, but they still need to be covered for the winter. Without this, during the frosty, snowless period, renewal buds and parts of the rhizome are likely to freeze. In open areas, strong winds sweep away snow, leaving the ground “black.” Mulching the soil to a height of at least 10 cm reduces the risk of freezing.

In autumn there is often rain and sleet. If a herbaceous peony is damaged by insufficiently rotted manure or undecomposed grass and leaves, the stumps of the stems and rhizomes may rot.

I insulate my peonies with a mixture of high-moor peat with neutral acidity, sand and earth. I buy deoxidized peat in large orange packages at the nearest garden centers. You can get by with well-decomposed crumbly compost or loose garden soil. The approximate volume is a bucket of 8 - 10 liters for each herbaceous peony bush.

Before covering the growing area of ​​an adult peony with soil mixture, I pour a shovelful of sand onto the ground. For young bushes, one scoop is enough. Such a sand layer is useful not only for, but also for many rhizomes. It is not worth insulating peonies with sand alone, because... it doesn't hold heat well.

Ito hybrids of peonies

Some gardeners grow and bloom Ito hybrids of mid-late varieties. Early varieties are less common. When pruning these perennials, a number of features must be taken into account. Strong bushes are not afraid of autumn frosts. In autumn, their foliage, similar to the leaves of tree peonies, turns into bright colors, decorating the empty area. It often lasts until the first snow.

Ito hybrids are pruned at a later date than herbaceous ones. When pruning Ito hybrids, take into account that some of the numerous renewal buds are on the stem, and some are on the roots. Some of them sit close to soil level. When removing shoots, leave small stumps (like herbaceous peonies) or cut them off completely. Aboveground buds do not need to be protected: in the spring, new flowering shoots will rise from the underground buds. It is important not to damage the tips of the root buds of renewal.

There is another pruning option, in which you select two or three of the strongest stems with several large buds closer to the base. These stems need to be cut at a height of 10 - 20 cm. Pruning must be carried out in dry weather. After this they are insulated. The easiest way is to use wooden boxes, the inside of which is stuffed with shavings or non-woven material. It is better not to take hay and straw so as not to attract. You can wrap the shoots in lutrasil and build a hut of spruce over them. The cover is removed when the primroses begin to bloom. When it gets colder, use lutrasil or other lightweight material. With this pruning option, flowering of Ito hybrids occurs a couple of weeks earlier than with complete removal of the entire above-ground part in the fall.

Adult bushes of Ito hybrids are quite winter-hardy. However, it is worth covering them for the winter, at least for the sake of insurance in case of a harsh winter with little snow. The mulching area should be such that the bulk of the roots, located in a horizontal plane, are under the insulation. The soil mixture should not increase the acidity of the soil, so it is better to add it to peat or compost.

Peony spring awakening

Peonies early varieties are the first to awaken in the spring. The mound of soil mixture that protected them from freezing prevents the soil from melting and inhibits the growth of shoots. Therefore, we need to carefully spread the insulating soil mixture without damaging the fragile buds. During the spring cold snap, you can cover the growing shoots with non-woven material or use another method. For example, throw hay or wood shavings on top.

When opening a peony, you should not create a funnel around it. The soil must be leveled so that excess moisture does not stagnate in the depressions. I build low borders to retain moisture after watering during dry periods later, when new shoots with foliage grow.

This year I planted luxury bulbs ("Ice Cream") late between the young peonies planted in a row. Therefore, I did not insulate the growing area of ​​the peony bushes by adding mounds of soil mixture, but mulched the entire planting strip at once. I hope that this will allow the bulbs to take root before frost and will provide additional protection against freezing.

Above the grassy peonies and tulip bulbs lies an even layer of loose soil mixture

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Treating peonies in spring and summer against diseases and pests is the first priority measure to combat these scourges. Most often, these plants are damaged by gray and root rot, rust and ring mosaic. Root-knot nematodes and ants cause no less harm to peonies. To protect crops from infections and pests or to cure already developed diseases, there are many drugs, and you will learn about the most effective of them from the table on this page.

Treatment of peonies for gray rot

Gray mold (Botrytis) — Botrytis paeonia Oud- the main and most widespread disease of peonies in our region. As a rule, symptoms of gray rot appear on peonies either in the spring (in middle lane Russia - in the third ten days of April, especially intensively - in the wet season), or in summer - early autumn (when it rains and there is high air humidity, with increased soil acidity, excess nitrogen fertilizers, heavy clay soils, high groundwater levels, thickened plantings, unventilated areas).

The most dangerous outbreak for plants is the spring outbreak of the disease, at the time of active growth of shoots.

As can be seen in the photo, with this disease, shoots with very soft tissues are affected at the place where the stems emerge from the ground:

A rotten dark area appears on the side of the stem. Very soon the stem falls. Black sclerotia are visible on rotting tissues.

In other years when high temperature During the period of active growth, gray rot of peonies affects the stems in the middle part: the plant bends in this place, the top withers. If the soil is carefully raked away, botrytis damage to the base of the stem will be noticeable on the underground part of the damaged shoot. This is believed to be the result short spring, quickly turning into hot weather in May.

After sufficient regrowth and hardening of the stem tissues, in the third ten days of May, stunted and weak stems are mainly affected.

The second time the appearance of the disease can be observed in the summer-autumn period. The buds, sepals, and petals (at the base) rot, brown spots with a gray coating appear on the leaves, the stems and leaves darken and dry out. When cutting through a stem affected by the disease, brown rings are visible.

Let us note once again that the external manifestation of botrytis is facilitated by the cold season, rains and high humidity. In almost any adult plant, to one degree or another, traces of botrytis damage are noticeable in the underground part: on the remains of last year’s stems and in the zone of their transition to the rhizome, on old, roots starting to die. But with proper cultivation, its external manifestations will be absent or insignificant throughout the life of the plant.

To treat gray rot of peonies you need:

• compliance with the rules of planting and maintaining plants;
• periodic application of deoxidizing additives to the soil (bone, dolomite, limestone flour);
• removal and destruction of damaged parts of the plant;
• mandatory and timely complete pruning of stems in the fall;
• limited use of nitrogen fertilizers;
• the use of fungicidal drugs and agents for the prevention and suppression of disease.

Most fungicidal preparations produced by the chemical industry are suitable for combating botrytis. Among them are long-known and tested: all copper-containing ones, foundationazole, colloidal sulfur. Timing of their application: in the spring, at the beginning of active growth of stems, in our zone in the third decade of April, and then 1-2 more times with an interval of 10-12 days, depending on the weather and the degree of damage to the plants. It is necessary to strictly follow drug dosage recommendations and observe safety precautions.

To combat this peony disease, the following rules must be followed:

1. It is better to alternate different means, this contributes to their more effective action and reduces the accumulation of dangerous drugs in the soil. For example, you could alternate: foundationazole - 0.3% (or equivalent), oxychloride - 0.3% (copper sulfate - 0.5%) and potassium permanganate solution - 0.03%.
2. The concentration of preparations with a burning effect (copper sulfate) in the spring when spraying young plants should be half as much as for adults. At this time, young tissues are too soft and delicate and are easily damaged. Strive to use a minimum of chemicals to protect yourself, fauna and soil. If possible, use mistings, and when watering, only wet the top layer of soil above and around the plant using a watering can with small holes. Then you can limit yourself to the norm of 0.5-1.0 liters per peony. No watering the plant from above!

These photos show the treatment of peonies for gray rot disease:

Fighting root rot of peonies

Root rot. Peonies are also affected by pathogenic fungi from the genera Fusarium, Sclerotinia, Rhizoctonia, and Phytophtora. According to my observations, the disease is rare and it is quite difficult to distinguish between different rots. Externally, the disease manifests itself in the sudden blackening of the stems and their wilting in the middle of summer. The dug up roots look brown, softened to mucus, and emit an unpleasant odor. The affected bush is dug up and destroyed.

The causes of the disease are the same as for botrytis: wet weather, flooding of the site with melt and rain water, dense plantings, unventilated areas, acidic soils and replanting in a place previously occupied by peonies.

Control measures:

• use of healthy planting material;
• correct landing;
• use of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and microelements;
• To treat this disease of peonies, it is necessary to use fungicidal drugs: copper sulfate, Khoma, foundation (0.2%) and others indicated in the table.

Treatment of peonies for rust and spotting

Rust — Cronarium flaccidum (Alb. & Schw.) Wint. The disease appears in the summer, usually after. Brown or purple spots become visible on the upper side of the leaves, and orange-brown spots on the underside. Later the leaves dry out and curl. The stems appear undamaged. The host of the infectious agent is Scots pine.

Control measures:

• collecting and burning diseased leaves;
• spraying (wetting) the leaves with fungicidal preparations, the same as for gray rot. As a means of holding the drug on the leaf plates, it is recommended to add a solution of laundry or green soap and a pinch of washing powder.

Spotting. There are a number of different and difficult to distinguish diseases that affect peonies. They cause premature death of leaves and stems. Diseases actively develop at high humidity and temperature. Pathogenic fungi persist on plant debris.

Control measures:

• collecting and burning affected leaves and stems;
• spraying the entire plant with fungicidal preparations, as in the case of rust;
• thorough cleaning in the fall and burning of plant residues of peonies.

Peony mosaic disease: photos and videos of the fight against it

Ring mosaic virus (Ringsort virus) outwardly appears in the summer after the stems grow, before flowering. Symptoms depend on the variety and its species. Most often, rings, half rings and stripes appear on the leaves, yellow or lighter than the main color of the leaf plate. Otherwise the plant does not look depressed and blooms normally.

The disease is spread by cutting flowers in summer and cutting stems in autumn, as well as by insects sucking plant sap, in particular aphids. The disease is poorly studied and behaves rather mysteriously: it can disappear on a plant and then reappear after a few years.

Opinions about control measures are very contradictory: from the immediate destruction of the plant at the slightest manifestation of the disease to the option “do not touch the plant even if it is completely infected.” It is suggested that the disease exists in a latent form in many varietal peonies, without outwardly manifesting itself for many years.

Control measures. From the moment of regrowth, monitor the foliage of peonies very carefully. Typically, signs of the disease appear before the bush blooms, initially on just a few stems of the plant; the leaves of the remaining stems remain normally colored. The affected stems must be removed completely (unscrewed), and the wounds should be sprinkled with ash. Cut flowers and stems from the affected plant with a separate knife and burn. It often happens that no further traces of the disease appear. If and on next year the damage to the plant will be insignificant Ring mosaic virus, repeat the above procedure.

See how the fight against peony disease is carried out in these photos:

If the disease does not disappear, but has taken over most plants, they dig it up and destroy it. In all cases, if the appearance of a disease was noted on a peony at least once, in the future, when working with it, it is necessary to use a separate tool. Avoid varieties susceptible to the disease.

The video “Peony Diseases” demonstrates the most effective measures to combat diseases:

Below is how to get rid of nematodes and ants on peonies.

How to get rid of nematodes and ants on peonies

Ants. These insects are often considered pests of peonies. They say that ants suck the juice from the buds and, settling under the peony, destroy the plant. But many pin growers believe that if there is any harm from ants, it is very small. During the budding period, ants feast on the nectar that is on the bud. If this irritates you, wash the buds with warm water. However, in last years a new population of ants has appeared, which settle on the buds and greatly deplete them, interfering with flowering.

To get rid of ants on peonies as quickly as possible, you need to spray the buds with a fufanol solution. As for the settlement of ants under a peony, this means that the plant is seriously sick and severely rotten. And ants are not the reason, but a clear signal of trouble. Ants do not settle under a healthy peony. You will have to dig up such a plant and sort it out on the spot.

Preparations for treating peonies in spring and summer against diseases and pests

From the table below you will learn, Next you will learn how to treat peonies in spring and summer from diseases and pests.

Preparations for controlling diseases and pests of peonies

A drug	Diseases and pests of peonies	Processing condition and period	Processing method	Norm applications
Copper oxychloride (CHOM)	Botrytis, root rot	When symptoms of botrytis appear; when root rot appears	Watering under the base of the bush	0.5% solution with repeat treatment after 10 days
Copper vitriol	Botrytis	When symptoms of botrytis appear	Watering at the base of the bush; spraying the plant itself	0.5% solution (no more!), repeated after 10 days
Alirin	Root and basal rot, late blight	Before boarding	Application into the planting hole and watering 2-3 times during the growing season	1 tablet/1 liter of water
	Powdery mildew, late blight, anthracosis, septoria, gray rot	During the growing season	Spraying (2-3 times) until the symptoms of the disease disappear	2-3 tablets/1 liter of water. Effective at temperatures above 7 °C
Maksim	Gray rot, root rot	Before landing	Soaking the cuttings (for 30 minutes)	2 ml/2 l water
		During the growing season	Watering the soil	2 ml/1 l water
Fitosporin M	Fungal and bacterial diseases: rot, rust, powdery mildew	Before boarding	Soak delenok, tillage	10 drops / 200 ml water
		During the growing season	Spraying	20 drops / 200 ml water
	Powdery mildew, spotting, botrytis	Before boarding	Tillage	3-5 g/1 l water
		During the growing season	Spraying	1 -3 g/1 l water
	Root and basal rot, late blight	Before boarding	Tillage	1 tablet/l liter of water
	Bacterial spotting, late blight, powdery mildew, rot	During the growing season		2 tablets/10 liters of water
			Preventive spraying before and after flowering	2 tablets/l liter of water
	Fungal diseases	At the beginning of the growing season	Preventive double spraying	2-4 ml/10 l water
		In case of severe damage	Spraying	10 ml/10 l water
	Rust, powdery mildew, black spot, rot	During the growing season	Spraying	Prevention 5 ml/10 l water
			Processing leaves on both sides	10 ml/10 l water
	Insect pests In contact with