Timing of plant cuttings. Cuttings of roses in August: Khabarovsk experience. Green cuttings: technique

Birds are wonderful creatures, forest orderlies who rid plants of all kinds of insects. But in addition to benefits, they can also cause harm. When the population of birds near human habitation increases sharply, they can pose a danger to humans. We will tell you what kind of inconvenience birds living in the attic of a house cause, and we will give effective methods of dealing with such neighbors.

What kind of inconvenience do birds cause?

Birds, including sparrows, can be carriers of pathogens

Residents of the upper floors of old houses are constantly at war with birds that jump on the roof and nest in the attic. If in the first case the problem is the rumbling noise, the singing of birds and droppings that pollute the roof, then in the second it is much more serious.

In addition to the constant rustling and chirping, when setting up their nests under the roof of a house, birds raise a lot of dust, which can negatively affect human health. In addition, birds often show They are carriers of infectious diseases, because their excrement may contain various fungi and bacteria that are extremely dangerous for us.

Thus, pathogens of diseases such as torulosis, psittacosis and others often live in pigeon droppings. All of them are transmitted by airborne droplets.

If birds make their nests under the roof itself, this can impair ventilation, which will lead to premature failure of roof structural elements. For example, the insulation layer must be well ventilated, otherwise moisture will form on it, which contributes to the destruction of the material.

In general, where people live, there is no place for forest dwellers. Therefore, such neighbors should be expelled immediately.

Methods of disposal

First of all, you need to understand that the fight against birds should not be aimed at their extermination. The key action here is to scare away the birds. Nests can be eliminated only if the animals pose a true threat to human life or property.

Moreover, before removing a nest, it is imperative to obtain appropriate permission from the Department environment.

The fact is that, according to the Law “On Environmental Protection”, the deliberate destruction of bird homes located in natural environment habitat is strictly prohibited.

If you have made sure that the birds have not yet managed to establish themselves above your head, but still periodically make unpleasant visits, you need to take care that the birds do not begin their next construction. Let's look at the most effective means and methods that will help keep these visitors away from your home.

Anti-seize spikes

Perched spikes are mainly used to scare away large birds

This device is made of polycarbonate or metal and is a mesh with sharp vertical wedges that prevent birds from landing on the roof. However, small birds, for example, starlings, are not afraid of large thorns and sit between them. But if the product is installed on a cornice, then more large birds, such as swallows and pigeons, will not be able to fly under the roof and will soon leave you alone.

Helpful advice: Periodically clean the thorns from dirt and remove leaves stuck between them, because birds are also afraid of shiny elements.

Visual deterrents

Scarecrows are usually used by owners of summer cottages or country mansions. They are installed in the yard. You can make this product yourself from scrap materials. To do this, knock down two boards in a cross and hang old clothes on top. The head can be made from an ordinary bag. The only negative is that birds often get used to scarecrows, and the latter become useless.

Helpful Hint: Try using plastic owls, snakes, coyotes, or other animals based on the type of birds that visit you.

A pet

A cat is a good old remedy for combating annoying chirping on the roof!

If birds have built a nest in the attic of your house, then get a cat. The predator will visit the birds several times, and they will leave their home. And sitting on the balcony, the cat will scare away other annoying winged guests. And don’t forget to install strong mosquito nets in the windows so that the animal does not fall off the railing when it hunts and tries to catch birds hovering nearby. Of course, it won’t be possible to drive everyone away, but their number will definitely decrease!

Reflective items

Most bird species are afraid of shiny objects. Take a roll of aluminum foil and cut it into long pieces. Ribbons can be hung on trees in the yard or on the roof. They will sway in the wind and reflect Sun rays.

: Sparrows are very afraid of bright glare.

Tapes from old video cassettes, New Year's rain or computer disks are often used as reflective elements. By the way, in stores for summer residents you can buy a special gel that glows when exposed to sunlight. This substance should be spread on the eaves of the building and other places where birds undesirably gather.

Sound devices

Example of a bird repellent device

The operating principle of the device is to reproduce alarm and distress signals various types birds. It is also possible to imitate the sounds made by their natural enemies - predators. Sensing danger, birds notify their relatives. Therefore, upon hearing such sounds, the birds will soon fly away. There are also ultrasonic repellers. These devices generate a high frequency signal, which is unpleasant for animals, and they leave the range of the device.

Isolation of possible nest sites

Look around your home's attic for small areas that might be perfect for nesting. Use wood planks, steel wool, or chicken wire to cover these areas. Use tape or nails to cover the indentations. In addition, it is advisable to cover the underside of the beams with netting so that birds do not build their houses there either.

Helpful Hint: To reduce the likelihood of birds settling in your yard and home, you can cover the fruit trees that they flock to to prey on them.

Don't feed the birds

The most correct approach to solving the issue. Birds gather and nest in places where they are fed. Therefore, people themselves are to blame for the large population of birds in the city. We first feed the gullible birds, and then get angry that they don’t let us rest. Place leftover food in a trash bag instead of throwing it out the window. Do not throw crumbs and seeds from the balcony, as the birds will instantly end up on your railings, and then under the roof.

If birds often visit your home or have already built a nest under the roof, you should consider removing them. Use the most effective methods to get rid of these noisy and dangerous neighbors and do not forget about the law.

Ivan Totsky
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Source: https://roof-tops.ru/bezopasnost/kak-vyselit-ptic-iz-pod-kryshi/

Get the birds out from under the roof

If for city residents birds are funny creatures that chirp cheerfully in the morning, then residents of private houses or summer residents have a different opinion.

Every experienced owner, when considering the design of a bathhouse with a gazebo under one roof, a house or any other building, knows how important it is to provide protection from birds. Mostly, sparrows “encroach” on the territory. But you can often find pigeons, jackdaws, and wagtails.

And how swallows love to build their nests under the roof of a house or gazebo! On the one hand, it's very cute. But on the other hand... This and how to get rid of birds will be discussed further.

Damage from birds in the yard

If we talk about harm to humans, few people know that birds, and especially pigeons, can carry diseases. For example, it could be tuberculosis. Also, birds shit everywhere. In addition to the fact that it spoils the appearance of the yard, the roof (especially if it is made of glass or polycarbonate), decorative items, etc., the droppings contain infections and various fungi. For scrupulous owners, in terms of ideal cleanliness and order on their territory, this is an annoying fact.

How to fight

Mischievous sparrows love to peck or knock down berries from trees. This is not bad - they just get their own food. But not every owner is happy with such a “freeloader” in own garden. To humanely drive away birds, the following methods are used:

Reflective and sparkling items.
The ringing of bells.
Ultrasound.

You can use old CDs as reflective and shiny objects. For example, hang them on tree branches or on water drains from the roof. Foil paper will also work. The main thing is that the sparkling objects should be exposed to the sun's rays. Of course, this option does not work in cloudy weather.

You can hang bells around the yard that ring in the wind. Some birds are frightened by their ringing. Resourceful owners attach pieces of foil to the bell - due to its swaying, it rings, and at the same time glare is created.

Ultrasound is considered one of the reliable options. It produces frequencies that are inaudible to humans and also do not harm other animals. Only birds perceive them. For them, this sound is not pleasant, perceived as danger. The sparrows will hasten to leave the territory.

Using these simple methods, you can remove birds from the site. Well, or at least make it not attractive to them. But if they have already settled under the roof of the house, most likely there are already nests there and there are chicks. Find out what to do next.

How to get rid of sparrows under the roof

Birds love to build nests on the roof, namely under the roof slopes. Although this is not dangerous to humans, it can easily damage the roof structure. The presence of nests disrupts normal ventilation, and this leads to the formation of moisture on the insulation and its premature destruction. If these are crows, then they also like to peck out the sealant on the metal tiles.

It is dangerous if a bird decides to build a nest in the chimney, and you do not know that it is there. Most often they wind them in the chimney of a bathhouse. Usually there is a gazebo next to it, people relax there, eat and leave leftover food behind. This is what attracts the gazebo feathered “guests” the most.

Important: if you light a sauna while there is a nest in the chimney, a fire may occur. Or the smoke will have nowhere to go, it will go into the room - the people there may suffer from fumes.

In cases where the birds have already built nests under the roof, it will be very difficult to get rid of them. The easiest way is to destroy a nest with chicks or block access to it. This option is considered inhumane and is punishable by law. Every effort must be made to simply not let the birds go where they shouldn’t.

Protection options:

Anti-seize spikes.
Overhang aerial element (ventilation tape).
Safety net.

Birds get under roofing material different ways- these are cornices, valleys, dormer windows, ridges - they are masters at finding a loophole. But you can still prevent them from landing on the lid. To do this, you need to secure a tape with anti-slip spikes on all the protrusions of the building. For example, on tides and gutters. The spikes are made of plastic or steel. There are different types that imitate roofing and will not spoil the appearance of the roof at all.

Important: anti-landing tapes will not injure the bird, but will simply ruin its “landing strip”.

The ventilation tape is attached using nails or press washers. It will prevent not only birds from entering under the roof, but also small insects. Very reliable protection that does not interfere with the proper ventilation of the space under the roof.

Protective netting is a simple and effective way to control bird nesting. It is pulled over the roof, secured to special posts. This mesh is made of either metal or plastic; with large or small cells.

All these methods are used to prevent birds from settling on your territory, and also to prevent damage to the roof of your house because of them. But driving birds with nests out from under the roof is quite difficult and almost impossible without exterminating them. It's better not to let this happen. It wouldn't hurt to hide everything open areas that attract birds. If these are dormer windows, then cover them with blinds; overhang of the cornice - cover with decorative soffits; Cover the vents with grates.

All of these methods will help minimize bird visits to your area. This means there is less chance that birds will set up their camp on it. But don’t forget about the benefits that come with sparrows - they are the ones who protect your crops from small pests. They eat insects and feed their chicks - thereby protecting home crops.

Source: https://www.stroy-krov.ru/articles/vygnat-ptits-iz-pod-kryshi

How to get rid of birds on the roof of a house and balcony?

Birds can inspire admiration with their luxurious plumage, touch you with their chirps or delight you with their vibrant trills, but if they occupy your home, you will understand how unpleasant these feathered neighbors are.

Residents of old private houses are waging an irreconcilable war with pigeons, sparrows or swallows, freely located under the roof. These uninvited attic residents cause a lot of inconvenience, so only an avid ornithologist can put up with such a neighborhood.

In this article we will tell you how to get rid of pigeons on your roof, as well as what to do to keep birds away from your house.

Dangers of being close to birds

Pigeons, sparrows, swallows, jackdaws and wagtails are uninvited guests who voluntarily settle under the roof of a house or in the attic. At first, homeowners may even enjoy the cheerful fuss of the chicks around the nest and their cheerful chirping, but do not forget that birds are carriers of a large number of diseases and cause unsanitary conditions. Living literally under the same roof with birds carries with it the following dangers:

Noise. Birds are very active people, so they do not sit still, but constantly go about their important business, loudly clicking their claws on the metal roof and flapping their wings.
Unsanitary conditions. Pigeons often suffer serious diseases such as tuberculosis and psittacosis. In addition, their droppings contain at least dangerous viruses, fungi and infections.
Dirt. As a result of the activity of birds, a lot of garbage is generated. In addition to feathers, fluff, and droppings that accumulate in the habitats of birds, small debris accumulates in attics and roofs, which they drag in to build nests.

Note! Birds often arrange their nests in such a way that they interfere with the ventilation of the roof of the house, complicating air circulation, as a result of which the thermal insulation material and rafter frame quickly become unusable.

Ways to fight

Residents of the upper floors know that the constant noise made by their feathered neighbors can torment even the most patient person. When an attic space is colonized by small birds, a large number of droppings, feathers, dust and debris, making it almost impossible to enter.

In addition, the danger of contracting a dangerous disease exists even when inhaling dust particles that contain microparticles of pigeon droppings. Bird control measures are divided into the following types:

Warning. These measures involve a set of actions aimed at making the roof structure unattractive to birds. To do this, when designing a structure, it is necessary to avoid protrusions or niches that could become a convenient place for nesting.
Repellent. These measures are aimed at creating conditions that will scare birds away from human homes. To make the roof of a house unattractive to birds, sound or light effects and anti-landing devices are used that make it difficult to land on the roof slopes.
Fighter. These measures include the destruction of birds and their nests by physical or chemical methods. They are the most inhumane and cruel method of getting rid of birds, so they are used extremely rarely.

Important! When deciding how to get rid of pigeons on the roof of a balcony, you need to familiarize yourself with the Law “On Environmental Protection”, which states that the destruction of birds and their nests in their natural habitat is administrative offense. Although pigeons and sparrows are not listed in the Red Book, they are also part of our ecosystem, so it is necessary to make their eviction from the roof as humane as possible.

Attic inhabited by birds Sparrows often live under the roofing material

Repellent methods

Since destroying bird nests is prohibited by law, it is necessary to scare them away from your home before nesting begins. You can make the attic unattractive to feathered inhabitants using light and sound effects, which they will take as signs of danger.

The most humane and effective methods repelling birds from the roof are considered:

Anti-seat devices. These devices are strips with long, thin spikes attached to surfaces that are most often favored by birds. The spikes do not cause them any harm, but do not allow them to land comfortably.Anti-landing devices
Sparkling and reflective items. Sparrows, like many other small birds, are afraid of bright glare, so installing a few reflectors on the roof is enough to force them to move. Bird repeller from an old laser disk
Sounds. To scare birds away from human homes, special devices that reproduce voices are used. birds of prey, as a result of which pigeons and sparrows feel danger and leave their habitat. Sound repeller for birds

Many homeowners and residents of upper floors are wondering how to get rid of sparrows on their own without causing them harm. This problem has an obvious answer - you just need to get a cat, which with its very appearance will scare away the feathered inhabitants to a safe distance without the use of special devices.

-instructions

Source: http://KrovlyaKrishi.ru/obsluzhivanie/kak-izbavitsya-ptic-pod-kryshej.html

People living on the top floors of multi-storey buildings or private houses may encounter a problem such as the presence of birds under the roof. They can cause significant discomfort to a person, and even pose a danger. In this article, we will look at several effective options for how to get rid of sparrows under the roof of your house.

Why is such a neighborhood dangerous?

Feathered neighbors can be very annoying. It is enough that they constantly run around the roof, grind their paws, make all sorts of sounds and build their nests. The constant rumble, noise, singing and feces of such neighbors make a person’s life much more difficult. However, this can still be survived, but if the birds decide to build nests and raise their offspring under the roof, then this can lead to serious problems.

During nesting, birds raise a lot of dust, which in turn is dangerous to human health. The fungi and bacteria they carry are also dangerous. They can be found on the paws or in the excrement of birds.

Many modern people's homes are insulated with special materials that must breathe in order to perform their functions and have a long service life. Sparrows, swallows or pigeons, while arranging their nests under the roof of a house, violate natural ventilation, which leads to the formation of condensation and destruction of the material. In addition, poor ventilation also leads to premature destruction of roof structures, not to mention disruption of air circulation in the apartment.

To summarize, we can say that the habitat of people is in no way suitable for birds. Next, we’ll look at how to get rid of sparrows and other birds.

Studded mesh

When starting the fight against uninvited guests, you should keep in mind that actions should be aimed solely at scaring away birds, but not at extermination. Destruction and destruction of bird nests is punishable by law.

So, if there are sparrows under the roof, how to get rid of them? Let's look at it below. In this case, you will need a mesh with vertical wedges made of polycarbonate or metal. This structure will prevent birds from landing on the roof.

If the birds have settled under the roof, then this device must be installed on the eaves. It should be noted that the spacing between wedges depends on the size of the pestering birds. If these are, for example, sparrows, then the mesh should be finer.

It is also necessary to periodically clean the mesh from dirt, because the sheen of the metal itself also repels birds.

Scarecrows

Another problem is birds in the courtyards of private houses. How to get rid of sparrows in the yard? To do this, you can build a scarecrow.

It's quite simple to do. You need to put together two boards in the form of a cross. Hang old clothes on top. For the head, a pumpkin, an old pot, or just a bag filled with rags will do. You can decorate this with a hat.

However, this method is not as effective as we would like. Over time, sparrows get used to such a guard and willingly coexist with him.

If sparrows bother you in a multi-story building, you can use various plastic scarecrows sold in pet stores. They can be in the form of owls, snakes, coyotes and other animals that are afraid of annoying feathered neighbors.

domestic predator

How to get rid of sparrows if they have already built a nest in the attic or under the eaves? Get a cat. A few uninvited visits from a predator to the sparrows’ house will be enough and they will leave their habitat.

However, you must remember to take care of the safety of your domestic predator. It is necessary to install strong mosquito nets on the windows to a pet did not fall out of the window while hunting birds flying by.

In addition, a cat sitting in the window will be a natural scarecrow for sparrows.

Sparkling objects

As already mentioned, birds are afraid of shiny objects, unless of course they are magpies. For sparrows, bright reflections are an effective deterrent.

To get rid of sparrows as unwanted neighbors, take aluminum foil and cut it into long strips. These tapes must be hung in places where the accumulation of birds is especially undesirable: in the yard, in the attic, on the roof.

For more advanced bird fighters, stores for summer residents sell special gels that glow in the sun. This product is well suited for those who live on the upper floors of buildings. All you have to do is apply the gel to the cornice and it’s done.

Shine and sound

In addition to the previous method, you can use tin cans. Beer or carbonated drink containers are perfect. They must be cut so that the inner sparkling part becomes visible. Then assemble them into a garland or simply hang several cans together.

In the wind, this structure will make sounds that scare away sparrows. And the shiny part of the cans will create glare in the sun.

Scaring sounds

Sellers of special devices that emit sounds signaling birds about danger and alarm will tell you how to get rid of sparrows and other birds in one fell swoop.

Also, such devices specialize in sounds natural enemies birds. Hearing them, they transmit information about the approaching predator to their fellow tribesmen, and the birds leave their nesting site.

These devices can also operate at ultrasonic frequencies, which are unpleasant to birds and they prefer to leave the range of these sounds. In this case, you need to be careful, since this device can also be heard by pets, which will be just as unpleasant for them as for birds.

Patience

If none of the methods listed above on how to get rid of sparrows under the roof helped, then only one remains - patience. Many who have encountered this problem advise simply waiting out this period. If the birds have built a nest under the roof, it means they have hatched chicks, and when they want to eat, a loud squeaking and chirping noise that causes discomfort occurs. Many residents claim that as soon as the chicks grow up, the entire family will leave the nesting site.

In addition, when comparing different birds based on how much trouble and inconvenience they cause, sparrows and titmice are considered the least evil of all birds that can ruin people’s lives.

Sparrows can be both beneficial and harmful. By feeding their offspring, they relieve country cottage area from a huge number of dangerous insects, thereby preserving the future harvest. At the same time, if the beetles and caterpillars are not enough for them, the sparrows themselves can destroy your garden. And if they also decide to settle in the neighborhood, making a nest under the roof of your house, then endless chirping, round-the-clock fuss and numerous traces of droppings will be added to all this. How to get rid of sparrows in order to preserve the harvest and save your nerves?

We use improvised means

If sparrows have chosen several beds in your garden plot, you can protect the plants by building a net. To do this, drive several pegs around the perimeter of the bed and stretch a strong thread between them. This device will prevent birds from destroying your crop, but will also make caring for your plants a little more difficult. As an alternative, you can use a removable mesh on the frame.
You can scare away sparrows by hanging them on fruit trees tape. Oddly enough, this method really works. If there is no ribbon, New Year’s “rain” will do. Sometimes old DVDs also give a good effect (sparrows are frightened by sun glare on mirror surfaces).
Don't forget about old, proven remedies. Build a scarecrow in your garden. To do this, you need to tie two wooden poles with a cross and hang clothes stuffed with straw on them. The Scarecrow's head can be made from a canvas bag.
Take a few beer or soda cans, cut them into ribbons and hang them near your garden beds. By hitting each other, they will make sounds that scare away sparrows.

We drive sparrows out from under the roof

To get rid of sparrows under the roof, the easiest way is to get a cat. Two or three visits from your furry pet to the attic, and the birds, taught by bitter experience, will build nests somewhere else.
Anti-seize spikes also help a lot. They are made from polycarbonate. If you place such spikes on the eaves, it will be inconvenient for the sparrows to return to the nest, and after a while they will leave you alone. Some models of anti-studs can also be attached to curved surfaces, the radius of which does not exceed 10 cm.

Equipment - gardener's assistant
In many specialized stores you can purchase electronic bio-acoustic devices for repelling birds and rodents. These devices imitate the sounds that birds of prey make while hunting. They are quite effective, but have a limited range. Therefore, if your area is too large, you will have to place several of these devices on it. They are absolutely harmless to humans and pets. Battlefield 1st floor, balcony. The nasty chirping from early morning was very annoying. At first this was solved by depriving myself fresh air and closed the window. But after some time this did not help either. It was decided to make sound insulation, all the cracks were foamed. This didn't help either. It was simply impossible to sleep! I began to feel nervous and have a terrible lack of sleep. Moreover, there were a lot of them (!), they were picking apart the mounting foam and littering all the glass. Out of my mind, I decided to cut down all the trees under the window. Look, they'll fly apart. And anyway, all the branches are in our windows. The upstairs neighbor, of senile years, almost doused me with boiling water. Thank God I missed. She cursed me for 8 generations to come. She, you see, wants to smell flowers and leaves from the balcony, but the fact that trees are climbing into my window and I can’t see the white light is normal. She decided to keep watch so that I wouldn’t cut anything down. I tied this tree to the field and tore it out by the roots. The rest was doused with electrolyte. The scandal was terrible, she threatened to make a statement. After googling, I realized that I was wrong with the trees; I didn’t touch the rest. I started googling how to get rid of tweeting parasites, asking friends, relatives, etc. I didn’t find anything intelligible: At first my relatives also shouted that I was a murderer, and everything was as usual. But in the end they brought me a gun and even put balls in it =) One day I woke up at about 6 in the morning, hearing a very loud and overly diligent chirping. Then I exploded, took my upgraded MP654 and shot the asshole (That’s how I started shooting out of the windows). But literally 10 minutes later I heard more, and again, and again: I shot a lot of them, the lawn was strewn with them. And the most interesting thing is that this swarm was endless. The neighbors started looking askance. I moved to the upgraded rat 2100 and shot from the depths of the room. Moreover, it wasn’t enough for me to just shoot, I laid the bullets with their skirts forward, they even had a charge... I hated them so much that I wanted to unscrew their heads by hand. (By the way, according to my observations, sparrows are very cunning and far from stupid. After the clap, they shut up for at least 30 minutes and did not come out) In general, this genocide lasted almost the whole summer, 2 months. But what a surprise I was when I realized , why there are so many of them, why they tweet. The reason for all this was the saleswoman from the store, which is behind my wall (neighbors). It turns out she fed them. Everything in the store goes rotten, dries out, etc. She laid it under my window. It turns out that was the reason... I immediately went to talk. The saleswoman is a different story, she was burning crusts here once... In general, she told me - “fuck you.. As I fed, so will I.” Having made another attempt to talk to her, I heard the same thing. One day, having caught her in the act of a crime, I took out a pistol and told her that if she put something under my window again, I would shoot at her, or I would pour something on her that she wouldn’t forget for a long time, and showed these mountains of corpses. And then she began to understand my position and even began to talk noticeably. And she even let me finish speaking and listened to the reason for my behavior. She promised not to do that again. I shot Vorobyov for a long time, but not in such volumes. The hatred towards them was very strong. But after some time he stopped touching them. I waited with trembling for the summer of 2011. It did, the terror and genocide are over. I sleep with the windows open. I pass by the sparrows calmly, but the sediment remains. I don’t regret my behavior, I was forced to. During that time I fed 6 cats. By the end of the summer they had recovered noticeably. To this day they come running under my window and ask me to eat =) But now I feed them sausage, they are already familiar comrades in the last war, almost family =)
Purpose of the story? I don’t even know, just tell me how it happens sometimes..
Don't blame me for the text, I wrote it in a hurry. And for the rest I’m ready to get paid in slippers =)

Semi-lignified cuttings have greater reserves of nutrients; they take root well even in low light. Due to the slow growth of such cuttings, special control over their cultivation is not required.

For trees and shrubs that are difficult to take root, the age of the mother plant is important. Cuttings of older plants root poorly or do not produce roots at all, even if they are cut from annual shoots and treated with a root formation stimulator.

For easily rooted species, the age of the mother plant is not particularly important.

Cutting cuttings

Cuttings are taken only from a healthy mother plant of the desired variety, without signs of disease infection or pest damage. Queen cells damaged by frost or drought, weakened by abundant fruiting, or with excessive growth are not suitable.

It is important to know

If you are planning cuttings, it is best to select the mother plant in the spring and provide it with good care: watering, fertilizing, timely treatment against pests and diseases.

Ornamental plants that can be propagated by semi-lignified cuttings in the fall: barberry, buddleia, elderberry, weigela, hydrangea, deutzia, honeysuckle, viburnum, kerria, clematis, cinquefoil, louisiania, magnolia, mahonia, almond, bladderwort, stephanandra, forsythia, mock orange.

They take root quickly, but species that are not winter-hardy enough may die in winter; in mid-autumn (October) it is better to carefully transplant them into containers and move them indoors for the winter.

Shoots with woody growth of the current year are cut off in August. The top is removed only if it is soft.

The most suitable branches for cuttings are determined by the hardness of the stem. Shoots that have accumulated a sufficient amount of nutrients necessary for rooting should be hard and break with a crunch. However, sometimes their hardness can be due to the aging of the plant.

To determine the degree of stem hardness, which depends on the starch content in the shoot, there is an iodine test. Freshly cut ends of the branches are dipped for 1 minute in a 0.2% solution of potassium iodide. With a high starch content, the sections are colored brighter. These branches should be used.

The cuttings should be 15-20 cm long with leaves. The lower cut is made with a sharp knife directly under the node, and the upper one in the middle of the internode. The lower leaves are removed to the planting depth, and the upper ones must be healthy to ensure photosynthesis and root formation in the plants.

Cuttings with a still soft green top, but already lignified base, are harvested in July. They should have a “heel”, that is, a small piece of old (two-year-old) wood or bark - this will improve root formation. The “heel” is obtained by sharply tearing off a young side shoot from the stem, as a result of which a piece of old bark and wood is separated. Using such a cutting, the tail of the heel is trimmed and the top of the shoot is trimmed.

Preparing a greenhouse

In a cold greenhouse, they dig deep into the soil. To improve the water-air regime of the soil, add 3 buckets of peat and a bucket of sand per 1 m2. A layer of clean fine sand about 3 cm thick is poured on top to create Better conditions for root formation.

Before planting the cuttings, the substrate is watered abundantly with water from a watering can with a strainer, and then with a solution of the biological soil fungicide Trichocin SP, following the instructions.

The easiest way to root cuttings is in a jar of water. But there are some subtleties here too. There should not be a lot of water in the jar, since air is needed for the formation and growth of roots. And you don’t need to change the water, but add fresh water little by little.
It is worth noting that roots form worse in transparent dishes than in opaque ones.

Treated with growth regulators

When working with semi-lignified cuttings, indolylbutyric acid (IBA) is mainly used at a concentration of 30-50 mg/l or indolylacetic acid (IAA) -50-100 mg/l.

Phytospectrum and Yucca preparations, which also have phytoncidal activity, are suitable.

It is very effective to dust the lower sections of cuttings with root powder.

It should be remembered that solutions of growth-regulating substances are unstable in light, so they are stored for no more than 5 days in a dark place in a closed container.

To treat the cuttings, the stimulant solution is poured into a shallow dish with a layer of about 3 cm. Selected in height and tied into bundles of 15-20 pieces, the cuttings are placed there vertically so that the solution does not touch the leaves. After 12-24 hours (depending on the drug and concentration), the cuttings are removed, rinsed with water and immediately planted in a greenhouse.

When taking cuttings of coniferous and evergreen plants, you need to wait until the beginning of autumn, at which time they take root better. Due to the constant presence of leaves, such plants do not fall into a state of deep dormancy and are not too demanding of lighting.

Planting cuttings

In the greenhouse, rows are marked with a garden peg and the cuttings are planted to a depth of about 4 cm, buried right up to the leaves, so that the base of the cutting is in the soil mixture under a layer of sand. Place them tightly - at a distance of about 7 cm from each other. The soil is compacted around each cutting.

The greenhouse is covered with film and shaded to prevent leaf burns.

There should be a thermometer in the greenhouse. If the air temperature rises above 27°C, ventilation is necessary. The substrate is watered as it dries, trying to maintain high soil and air humidity all the time. All fallen leaves from the greenhouse must be removed immediately to avoid rotting and the spread of disease.

If the weather is warm, the cuttings begin to form roots relatively quickly.

The timing of rooting varies from plant to plant, but the condition of the cutting can be judged by its appearance. An established cutting does not dry out, and its leaves are lively and elastic.

In late autumn, young plants are covered with fallen leaves, spruce branches, and a non-woven covering material on top.

In the spring, as soon as the threat of severe frosts has passed, the winter shelter is removed, the greenhouse is covered with thick non-fabric and regularly ventilated during the daytime, opening it slightly. Then the cover is removed completely.

Throughout the season, the rooted cuttings develop here in the greenhouse. They are regularly watered and fed with liquid complex fertilizers. In the fall, the plants are dug up and transplanted for growing or directly into the garden.

Your flower garden: work of the month.

August crept up unnoticed. Behind the friendly blossoming of lilies, daylilies are blooming less and less of their flowers, exquisite in shape and color.

Mid-summer perennials are replaced by defiantly luxurious dahlias, heleniums, hibiscus, tireless helianthus, clematis, petunias, tagetes continue to bloom, annual asters begin to bloom...

Divide, plant, replant

To preserve the unique flavor of your garden for years to come, you need to remember about your plants not only when they are in bloom. Even long-lived gardens can lose their decorative properties over the years, become weak, and get sick if you don’t take care of them and don’t grow young replacements for aging plants.

August is the last month of summer, but the end of the season is still far away. Therefore you need to take care of appearance their flower beds.

We will trim the elongated shoots of petunia, faded inflorescences of ageratum, trim the thyme (if we have not done this before), and “return” the overgrown clumps of sedums, geraniums, periwinkles and other perennials to their designated boundaries.

We feed all plants with complex mineral fertilizer. Don't forget to water.

Cut and remove the yellowed daylily leaves.

It is better to divide, plant and replant perennials when the heat subsides. Autumn is long, and plants have time to take root, settle into new places, and prepare well for winter.

Preparing a place for planting perennials

In the meantime, let’s prepare areas for planting perennials and bulbous plants. For each type of plant, we select a location taking into account its requirements for lighting, ventilation, stagnation of spring and rainwater. When choosing a location, we also take into account where the plants will look most advantageous.

Before digging, add compost or humus, add superphosphate (2-2.5 tablespoons), potassium sulfate (1-1.5 tablespoons). Having prepared the area, we water it to stimulate the growth of weeds and then weed them out.

August is a good time to transplant irises

Let's take a closer look at the thickets of irises. Surely, if they have not been replanted for a long time, there are a lot of frail, drooping and yellow leaves on the site. Such a curtain no longer decorates the garden, but reproaches the owners for inattention.

Let's grab a shovel and do a little work. Let's transplant the irises, choosing the healthiest links for planting in a new place - a fan of leaves and a piece of young rhizome.

Prepared divisions of irises.

In cuttings, we shorten the roots and leaves by about 10 cm, keep them in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then in the sun for about a day.

We dig holes, fill each with a mound, place a rhizome on it, straighten the roots along the slopes, cover with soil, compact with our hands, water, check the planting depth (the rhizome should be at soil level).

Planting lilies

At the end of August, you can begin to plant overgrown nests of lilies. And they divide the nest when 4-6 bulbs are formed in it. But first, let’s dig up one nest and make sure that the bulbs in it have recovered after flowering: the scales on them are juicy and elastic.

If the bulbs are loose, with thin scales, we will postpone replanting and give the bulbs additional time to recover. It is preferable to divide and replant lilies in late summer - early autumn than in spring, when the sprouts that emerge from the ground easily break off.

Preparing the soil for replanting

If lilies are transplanted in their own area, you first need to prepare the soil for planting them and only then start digging up the plants.

On heavy soils, humus and sand are added for digging (a bucket per sq. m). There is no need to add more: excess organic matter causes increased growth of the above-ground parts of plants to the detriment of flowering and the formation of healthy bulbs, reduces the winter hardiness of plants, and makes them susceptible to diseases.

Add humus or compost to light soils (a bucket per square meter). Add superphosphate and potassium sulfate - 2 and 1 tbsp, respectively. spoons. It is important to keep the lily bulbs and their roots fresh and not dry them out.

Lilies are planted to a depth 2-3 times greater than the height of the bulb. It is advisable to pour a layer of sand at the bottom of the planting grooves, on which the bulbs are placed, the roots are straightened and covered first with sand and then with good fertile soil.

Dividing overgrown peonies

We begin dividing and replanting peonies with extreme caution. For each division, we dig wide and deep holes (up to 70 cm) so that there is room to add a nutritious soil mixture: 2-3 buckets of compost or humus, a glass of potassium sulfate and superphosphate, mix everything thoroughly.

Sprinkle a 20-25 cm layer of regular fertile soil on top without fertilizers. It is advisable to prepare the holes in advance - three weeks before planting, so that the soil settles well.

If you decide to plant several bushes nearby, holes are dug a meter apart from each other. Typically, a dug out peony bush is divided into parts with 3-4 renewal buds. But experts consider cuttings with 1-2 buds and a small piece of rhizome to be higher quality planting material.

Plants obtained from such “babies” are distinguished by greater health and longevity, since their root system is almost completely renewed.

When planting on heavy soils, the buds of the divisions are buried by 3-5 cm, and on light soils by 5-7 cm. If planted shallower, the plants may suffer from frost in winter, and from overheating in summer. Deeper planting is one of the reasons for the lack of flowering in peonies.

Cuttings from perennials

August - favorable time for cuttings of perennials. Let’s say a neighbor liked a sedum or phlox, a Korean chrysanthemum... It’s not at all necessary to wait until they give us a piece of rhizome when replanting; just ask for the apical part of the shoot of the plant you like.

If there are few cuttings, it is better to root them in some kind of bowl or seedling box placed in a shaded place. Pour drainage (sand or fine expanded clay) into the bottom of the container. Then - a three-centimeter layer of fertile soil, and then pour five centimeters of clean sand on top of it.

Having taken root in the sand, the cuttings take root in the fertile layer and begin to grow actively. For cuttings (part of a shoot with 2-3 internodes), the lower leaves are cut off, the upper ones are shortened and buried bottom part(where the leaves are cut) into a moistened layer of sand.

After planting, the cuttings are covered with film or glass and placed in a shaded place. Rooted cuttings are planted in a permanent place. In the first winter, they are insulated by sprinkling the soil with compost and leaves.

A young clematis plant can be guaranteed to be obtained by digging a layer next to the bush.

This is how clematis shoots are buried.

Near the bush, we dig a groove about 10 cm deep. Without cutting, carefully remove one shoot from the trellis, place it on the bottom of the groove, secure it with wire pins and sprinkle it with nutritious soil, leaving the growth point of the shoot on the surface (20 centimeters).

The main job is done. Now all that remains is to water regularly. In a year we will have several young plants of our favorite clematis.

You can read more about clematis cuttings in the article
If you are interested in how to cut roses from a bouquet both in winter and summer, this article will be useful to you

It is not difficult to propagate Asiatic lilies. Among the bulblets formed in the axil of their leaves, you can select the largest ones (and they are larger on young plants) and plant them in a small, weed-free area.

We plant the bulbs no deeper than 2-3 cm. We place the rows 20 cm apart from the row, plant the bulbs in the row every 5-6 cm. We water the furrows before planting. We fill the bulbs with fertile soil and mulch with compost. After a year, the lilies will develop a rosette of leaves, and in the third year they will bloom.

These are the bulbs.

In August you can collect flower seeds

Don’t put off collecting perennial seeds until the fall. Seeds collected in cold, wet weather are less likely to germinate. And they can crumble before you get your hands on them.

Snapdragon flower stalks are cut for seeds when holes appear on the lower seed pods.

Zinnia seeds ripen more evenly and stay in the inflorescences well. But still, it is better to collect them and dry them in a well-ventilated area.

As they ripen, the seeds of fragrant tobacco, gatsaniya, sanvitalia, tagetes and other annuals are collected. It makes sense to collect seeds even from such “self-sowing” plants as Nigella and Eschscholzia. They themselves will sow seeds wherever they please, and in the spring you will throw them into the ground where they are appropriate.

It's time to bring indoor flowers into the house

At the end of the month we begin to gradually return to apartments houseplants. Before this, we wash the leaves and treat them with phytoverm so as not to bring home aphids or spider mites.

Ficus, hibiscus and other large plants that have grown over the summer may require transferring to a larger container. For other plants, it would be a good idea to replace the top layer of soil: from frequent watering, which is inevitable in the summer, it has lost its nutritional value.

Let's carefully examine the plants themselves: perhaps they need to pinch the tops, cut out weak, drying shoots.

In order not to lose the pelargonium colors you like, we cut cuttings. They will take root faster than cuttings taken in the fall. You can transplant several smaller pelargonium plants from the flower garden into pots in order to move them into rooms before the onset of autumn cold weather.

Have you noticed the “beaks” of seeds on the pelargonium inflorescences? Collect them to sow in winter. The seedlings grow into neat, abundantly flowering bushes.

We reduce the amount of nitrogen in fertilizing for all plants: let them begin to prepare for winter. We prepare hippeastrums for the dormant period by gradually reducing watering and thereby allowing the leaves to dry out and “pump” the stored nutrients into the bulbs.

We transplant the awakened cyclamen tubers into a mixture of leaf soil, humus, peat, sand (3:1:1:1).