Analysis of the UAZ 4-speed gearbox. Everything you need to know about the UAZ gearbox and transfer case. Partially synchronized gearbox assembly

The UAZ (loaf) car is one of the most common cargo and passenger vehicles, which has a spacious body, an impeccable safety system and a durable power unit. This is a fairly reliable car, however, during intensive use, malfunctions and breakdowns occur that require immediate attention.

In most cases UAZ gearbox repair necessary due to normal wear and tear, which indicates the excellent reliability of this device. The main reason for the premature failure of this unit is that there is an increased level of fuel in the system, so it is necessary to use oil of impeccable quality.

If this recommendation is not followed, noise of a special nature may appear in the design of the unit. The synchronizer or its internal components may also fail, which always results in difficult gear changes. These are not all the breakdowns that cause the need for repairs. Repairing the UAZ “Bukhanka” gearbox.

The main signs of gearbox failure:

knocking out speeds;
oil leaks in the gearbox area;
extraneous noise when changing gears;
inability to switch on one or more speeds.

If these problems occur, the device should be diagnosed to accurately identify the cause of the breakdown. This will save time in the process UAZ gearbox repair, and will also contribute to a high-quality restoration of functionality. It is recommended that this procedure be performed by specialists.

The main tools needed to restore the transmission's functionality:

bearing puller and various screwdrivers;
chisel, copper pin, core, as well as a hammer and a small spatula;
a set of special gaskets and retaining rings for vehicles;
small containers for storing screws and nuts (for ease and convenience of assembly).

Repair of UAZ “Bukhanka” box consists of a number of steps that must be performed one by one. In the process of professionally restoring the performance of a gearbox, qualified technicians perform a number of actions.

Dismantling the gearbox

The transfer case and gearbox of UAZ vehicles are attached to each other into one unit, which is the correct technical solution. This unit weighs more than 80 kg, so it is extremely difficult to remove it yourself.

Before you start UAZ gearbox repair the vehicle needs to be placed on a level surface, since during restoration activities it will be necessary to move back and forth by approximately a meter. After draining the oil, you should remove the seats, clutch release forks, and the two halves of the hatch. In addition to the above, components such as brake system levers and suspension mounts in the chassis are subject to removal. This will make it possible to extend the checkpoint.

Restoring gearbox functionality

Detection of defects in component parts is possible after complete disassembly of the unit. Based on this, it subsequently seems possible to implement UAZ "Bukhanka" gearbox repair. All components are washed in kerosene and dried.

This will make it possible to more effectively detect any breakdowns or damage. Particular attention must be paid to the shafts and crankcase. In case of any malfunctions, chips or other damage, each component replaced with a new component.

Disassembly and installation

After spending UAZ "Bukhanka" gearbox repair, you need to install the device in place in the car. The most important and responsible action is to install input shaft into the clutch. Insignificant forward movements, moving the gearbox up and down, the unit is installed in place.

Grovers with nuts are inserted on the left side. Next, the clutch fork and spline oiler are mounted. Upon completion of the previous step, you need to insert the speedometer drive and other parts. Next, the frame cross member and muffler bracket are secured, after which the hand brake mechanism is calibrated.

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If you are the owner of a UAZ and there are suspicions that the gearbox has failed, then you should definitely undertake repairs. The unit fails when the driver has to hold the gearshift lever while driving when they begin to shift on their own (to prevent this, drivers tie them with ropes). Sometimes squeaks are heard.

To get acquainted with the repair technology, read about repairing a gearbox yourself. First you need to determine the type of UAZ gearbox that is on the car. Despite the differences between car models, they are equipped with the same transfer cases. Therefore, we can assume that the repairs are carried out almost identically. To do this, you will need a set of keys, some tools and auxiliary aids (their list is given below).

Start of repair of the UAZ 452 gearbox on your own: gearbox, transfer case

On most car models of this type, both parts are one piece. The weight of such a unit reaches 75-82 kg, so you will need an assistant. If the vehicle being repaired has a safety cage, then you can use a hand winch to remove the UAZ 452 gearbox for repair.

The machine must be placed on level ground, since subsequently it will have to be moved 0.5 m forward or backward. First drain the oil. Both boxes have a common volume, but the plugs for draining the liquid are separate. While the oil is pouring out, you need to remove the front seats and unscrew them, and then put the hatch halves on the floor of the car. Next comes the turn of removing the speedometer rods.

When the oil has drained, screw the drain plugs into place. There is a frame cross member under the handbrake drum; it must be removed. Disconnect the front axle clutches and unscrew the front driveshaft. If you find that the nuts on it are weak, then you need to remove this part.

If a UAZ 3303 gearbox is being repaired, you need to be careful with the clutches. The car is moved 0.5 m (in any direction) and the rear cardan is removed through the hatch. Disconnect the muffler from the transfer box and loosen the clamp on it. Then the following parts are removed one by one:

clutch pan;
fastening the oiler from the input shaft (it is located on the right, on the bell);
4 bolts that hold the clutch fork housing;
adjusting the cylinder rod and fork.

The transfer case is wrapped with rope and suspended. The following parts are removed:

pillow bolts;
nuts holding the bell box fastening.

During these actions, the engine, when repairing the UAZ 452 gearbox on its own, must be supported with a jack. When the box is free, it is lowered and removed from under the car. The levers must first be removed. The bell pins need to be replaced with new ones.

If you need to repair the UAZ Patriot gearbox, then you need to take into account that the location of the box and bell is reversed. This also applies to the location of the rods. But in general, the technology for repairing the UAZ 452 gearbox on your own is suitable for use.

Unscrew the bolts and nuts, disconnect the gearbox and its transfer case. There is a gasket between them, reinforced with sealant, so you will have to hit the bracket securing the unit to the frame several times.

UAZ Patriot checkpoint diagram

Do-it-yourself disassembly and assembly

First, you need to remove the input shaft cover and unscrew the left nut that is located on it (see figure). Now you need to remove its bearing. If it fails, it must be replaced. Its roller “brother” is installed inside the shaft; it also needs to be replaced. Then the retaining ring is removed from the secondary roll. Unscrew the double row bearing stopper. The shaft needs to be knocked out and the part replaced.

Next comes the third gear clutch assembly. Copper synchronizers are replaced along with crackers. Then comes the turn of the reverse gear. Unscrew the front intermediate shaft bearing box. Do not hit it with a hammer or core: it is made of silumin and may crack.

Be careful not to damage the rubber gasket because it is difficult to get out. On the removed shaft, the gears and all bearings are replaced. After this, reassemble the box in reverse order. When installing the roller on the input shaft, it is generously lubricated with Lithol. All components and parts are put in place one by one so as not to make a mistake.

Transfer case, complete assembly of the gear unit and its installation

Loosen the nuts of the flanges and shafts and remove them. The handbrake must be checked for functionality and, if necessary, it must be replaced. Remove all covers and replace seals. Unscrew the speedometer linkage drive and the breather (it needs to be replaced). Check the bearings and replace if necessary.

Reassembling the transfer case is done in the reverse order. These steps are repeated when working with other types of this car brand (including). Install the fastening bracket to the frame. Place the transfer case on the handbrake drum and, holding it by the gear, lower it into place through the power take-off hatch.

Before this, install the lock washer from the intermediate shaft. Tighten the bolts and nuts, put on the cover with levers and check the operation of all gears. They change the release bearing, remove the levers, drag the entire assembly under the car and hang it on a rope. Place the release bearing assembly on the box and strengthen the spring. Then the input shaft and clutch are inserted. This is done as follows:

move the box down and up;
turn the engine by the flywheel;
put the knot in place;
attach pillows.

The oiler for the input shaft splines and the fork are attached in place, and the speedometer drive, cardans, handbrake, and covers are put in place. You need to return the frame cross member to its place and secure the muffler bracket to the transfer case.

The handbrake is adjusted and adjusted, and the oil is changed. If the UAZ Hunter gearbox is being repaired, you may need not only these steps, but also adjusting the rods. They screw up the hatch on the floor and install the seats. At this point, the repair of the UAZ 452 gearbox on our own is completed.

The UAZ car is common on Russian roads, is distinguished by its reliability and the ability to move on asphalt areas and off-road. The UAZ gearbox is a mechanical type with 4 steps. The mechanism is distinguished by the presence of synchronizers, the function of which is to equalize the speed. This is one of the key elements of any transport. The functionality of other systems and the quality of driving a car depend on its operation.

Design and principle of operation

The gearbox diagram contains information about the main and additional elements of the system. The UAZ gearbox structure includes the following units and parts:

Fully synchronized installation, ensuring speed equalization and smooth switching.
Primary shaft on 2 supports.
Helical intermediate gears for shaft drive.
An angular contact ball bearing, consisting of 2 rows and located on the rear of the shaft, is necessary to perceive and respond in a timely manner to loads arising during driving in the radial and axial planes.
A transfer case consisting of a main axle shaft and a gear with a large working life.

Such design features make it possible to move in reverse. The mechanical type of gearbox has the main advantage of a long service life. A car with a similar device copes well with difficulties while driving over rough terrain.

Malfunctions and repairs

The first signs indicating a malfunction of the automotive system should force the car owner to carry out diagnostics. In some cases, this can be done on your own. Simple breakdowns can be repaired with your own hands. It is better to entrust more complex faults to a service center.

Signs indicating the need to repair the UAZ gearbox:

deterioration of management;
squeaks and extraneous noises when changing speeds;
independent activation of transmission.

In most cases, when uncharacteristic noise is observed, the cause lies in wear or defect of the bearings and gears. Stiff gear shifting indicates a malfunction of the synchronizers.

The main reason for the problems that arise is the natural wear and tear of parts.

The need to check the transfer case is indicated by deterioration in wheel adhesion to the road surface and increased noise levels from the area where the unit is located. Damage is caused by: careless operation of vehicles, untimely maintenance, use of low-quality consumables, fuel and gear oil, lack of control over the volume of working fluids.

UAZ (loaf) cars have the most spacious body. The machine body is made of durable material. The vehicle is equipped with security systems, a durable power unit that is capable of developing more than 100 horsepower, and a transmission system.

The all-wheel drive cargo-passenger UAZ, which has increased cross-country ability, began to be mass-produced at the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant in the mid-1960s.

UAZ transmission components

The new UAZ 452 family vehicles have a manual transmission (four-speed). Inertial type synchronizers provide easier gear shifting. The five-speed ADS gearbox is synchronized in all forward gears.

The UAZ can be equipped with a 5-speed manual transmission Daimos (DYMOS). This gearbox is distinguished by its reliability. Average resource its work - 300,000 km. The filler plug is located in the middle of the box, the drain is at the bottom. It seems possible to unscrew them using a hex key. When oil is drained, special containers should be prepared. New fluid must be filled to the level of the oil filler hole on the box. The dipstick allows you to accurately determine to what level the liquid is filled. An alternative to the probe can be a long nail. For preventive purposes, the oil level must be measured every 15,000 km.

The presence of mechanics on this version of the vehicle is completely justified. It is important to use such a car on rough terrain and off-road. In addition to this, there will be no problems with towing.

The gearbox has external shift levers. The lever in the cabin moves freely both parallel and perpendicular to its axis.

The machine is equipped with a transfer case. The design of the transfer case for the UAZ 452: drive axle shafts, gears. All of the listed components are located in a cast iron crankcase. The crankcase and the cover are connected with nuts. The shift fork rods are securely fixed in the cover.

There is a spline and bearings. There is a helical gear for the speedometer drive. The intermediate shaft is fixed to the “loaf” bearings. This box has reliable gears with straight teeth.

Thus, the gearbox on the UAZ 452 consists of many components and assemblies. This unit requires regular maintenance.

The need to diagnose the UAZ model 452 gearbox

This vehicle must be diagnosed if control begins to deteriorate, characteristic creaks are heard when a gear change occurs, or gears begin to change spontaneously. The UAZ transfer case should be checked if the grip of the wheels on the road has noticeably deteriorated, a hum or increasing noise has begun to appear during its operation.

During maintenance, technicians must check the system for oil leaks and lubricant levels. All worn parts in the transmission system must be replaced with new ones. Also, diagnostics involves lubricating the lever axle and adjusting the front linkages.

Routine diagnostics in a professional auto repair shop allows you to accurately determine the existing nature of the problem with the gearbox and eliminate existing problems at an early stage.

Causes of breakdowns

As a rule, the need to replace the main components of a gearbox arises due to their natural wear and tear.

Causes of gearbox breakdowns

The main reason for oil leakage from the gearbox is the presence higher level fuel in the system. For UAZ gearboxes, you should use high-quality oil. If the liquid is not of the proper quality, this may cause characteristic noises from the box. When the synchronizer or its parts wear out, it is always difficult to change gears. You should also pay attention to the details of the switching mechanism. When gear teeth are deformed, gears often switch off automatically.

Transmission removal process

It is quite possible to repair the gearbox on a UAZ 452 yourself. This requires:

a set of wrenches, including the keys needed to tighten the nuts;
screwdrivers;
hammer;
chisel;
pliers.

Dismantling algorithm.

The car must be parked on level ground. It is necessary to drain the oil from the two boxes by unscrewing the drain plugs. Next, the front seats, hatch halves, clutch release fork, transverse frame, and gear shift levers are removed.

The speedometer shaft, suspension supports in the chassis, and brake system levers must be removed. As a result, the exit to the clutch housing opens. The box is fixed on it with fastening nuts, which must be unscrewed, then the UAZ gearbox along with the transfer gearbox is carefully pulled out until the spline shaft exits the flywheel. The driver will need an assistant to remove the box.

Assembling a UAZ gearbox requires due attention. During self-assembly, the driver may have difficulty installing the input shaft into the clutch system. During this process, it is necessary to actively move the box so that the shaft gets into the splines.

As soon as disassembly into individual component parts has occurred, the box must be washed in kerosene and dried. All spare parts are checked for integrity. First of all, this concerns the crankcase and shafts. If the threads on the shafts are damaged, they need to be replaced. It seems dangerous to operate the machine if there are chips on the gears.

Thus, timely repair of the UAZ “loaf” gearbox helps to extend the service life of the gearbox.

If you increasingly have to hold the gearshift lever while driving, if the transfer case levers have long been tied with ropes :), if when driving, even on the rear axle, a discordant concert begins under you, then it’s time. It's time to remove the box and figure out how this collection of gears and bearings works.

I warn you right away - I’m not going to argue with the authors of books on UAZs, this article is only an addition to the books, taking into account the fact that you don’t have a service station, a lift, three mechanics and the like.

To start

Look at what kind of gearbox you have. If you are not familiar with the concept of "double squeezing with reversal", all gears, both up and down, are easily shifted, and the lever when engaging first gear travels the same distance as when engaging third - you have a fully synchronized gearbox. Everything that will be written further about the gearbox does not apply to you. However, the transfer cases are the same, and you may still find some of this article useful. For off-road use, a gearbox with synchronizers only in third or fourth gears is preferable, the so-called. "old style".

Having decided on the type of your box, we will prepare the tool. To completely disassemble and reassemble the “old-style” gearbox and transfer case without any special tricks, you need the following tool:

Open-end wrenches - 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19, 22. It would be better in two copies. Particular attention should be paid to the 14th key - it should not be very thick and should not bend under any circumstances, otherwise turning the rear driveshaft away from the transfer case flange can cause trouble.
Socket wrenches - 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24, 27, 36. The thinner the walls, the better. The usual domestic set of heads did not fit everywhere. The 36 head is not found in all sets, I bought a hub key from a GAZelle, and it held up with flying colors. And it was cheap.
A special wrench for tightening flat nuts - these are found on the steering column of bicycles. I also picked up a bicycle key, but in general this is wrong.
Screwdrivers - flat and Phillips. Both powerful for large screws and small ones.
Platypuses are ordinary straight ones with curved noses for removing and putting on locking rings.
Something copper to stick between the gear teeth when loosening and tightening the shaft nuts. I used an old synchronizer.
A drift is a metal pin, preferably made of copper.
Piece metal pipe- for putting on keys. Sometimes the nuts and bolts are so tight that they cannot be unscrewed otherwise.
Core and chisel. The core must be of high quality so that upon impact, its pieces do not fly into the brand new bearing.
Mounting blade. This is how the wheels are usually mounted. A very necessary thing.
Hammer. It should be quite heavy, sometimes you have to hit it “as hard as you can.”
Cans for screws and other small items. The more, the better - when you put everything back together, you will appreciate this advice.
Bearing puller. You can do without it, but it’s a convenient thing.
Book and catalog with good pictures. Necessarily. And read before you start unscrewing anything :) Pay special attention to the places where there are left-handed threads and the location of washers, stops and other small things. It’s best to remember (or write down) everything when disassembling

I use red ABRO sealant for gaskets. Domestic white is only suitable for water supply, and even then not everywhere.

I use Litol as the cheapest grease.
Gaskets are sold in sets “For gearbox” and “For transfer case”. All gaskets need to be changed; leaving the old ones will not work. It is also useful (but not necessary) to buy a “Gearbox Repair Kit” and a “Transfer Box Repair Kit”, which consist of retaining rings, shims and other small things that would be better to change. I really couldn’t find a distribution kit in all of St. Petersburg, but there are almost no small things there.

Removing the "Gearbox-transfer case" assembly

In UAZ vehicles, the gearbox and transfer case are interlocked into one unit, which is very correct. But it’s very heavy (80 kg). Therefore, it is quite difficult to remove this weighty unit alone (and this is exactly what happens most often). The photo shows how I get out of the situation - using the Lika-2 manual winch. But I have a roll cage that I hook her to. Having once forgotten the winch, I got out of the situation with the help of an ordinary crowbar and rope. But I won’t undertake to put the box in place without a winch alone.

So let's begin. We place the car on a flat surface, taking into account that it will have to be rolled half a meter back and forth. We drain the oil - the gearbox and transfer case have separate drain and filler plugs, although the volume is the same.

While the oil is draining, remove the front seats. Then we unscrew and remove the two halves of the hatch in the floor. We unscrew and remove the speedometer drive away.

The oil is just glass, we wrap it in place of the plug. We unscrew the frame cross member that runs directly under the handbrake drum. We unscrew the cardans from the transfer case flanges. It is more convenient to unscrew the front driveshaft if the front axle clutches are disconnected. If your cardans have weak spline joint nuts, it would be a shame to remove the cardans completely; in general, it’s enough to tie them to the frame so they don’t get in the way. It is much more convenient to unscrew the rear universal joint from above, from the hatch; this is where the car will have to be slightly rolled forward and backward. We unscrew the muffler from the transfer case and loosen the clamp on the muffler itself, otherwise it will interfere.

Unscrew the clutch pan. We unscrew the fastening of the oiler of the input shaft splines (on the right side of the bell) and push the hose inside the bell. We unscrew the four bolts securing the clutch fork housing, remove the spring, twist the adjustment on the working cylinder rod and pull out the fork.

We wrap a rope around the box with the transfer case and hang it up. We unscrew and remove the bolts of the pillows, unscrew the nuts securing the box to the bell. Do this gradually; the nuts on the left side will be completely unscrewed only when the box has already partially moved away from the bell. Help yourself with editing. In this case, it is better to support the engine with a jack, otherwise it will remain on two supports and the “rear” part will lower and interfere. When the box finally hangs, carefully lower it down. It is better to change the studs in the bell - they are under heavy loads, and it is 50/50 that the threads on them are damaged. If the car is standing on the ground, to make it easier to pull it out from under the car, the levers must be removed. When removing the gear shift lever, you need to hold the cover - there is a spring under it.

Remove the handbrake lever so it doesn't interfere. By unscrewing two bolts and two nuts, we disconnect the gearbox and transfer case. Since the gasket between them is probably sealed, they are separated by several blows to the bracket securing the unit to the frame. Be careful not to lose the "Countershaft Thrust Washer". If it is there and differs from the photograph, I beg you to take a photograph and send the photo to me, I have never seen it. :) In the photo there is an oil squeegee ring out of the box, the correct diameter.

Transmission

Remove the cover with the gear shift forks. Remove the input shaft cover. Having engaged any gear, we put the copper into the teeth and unscrew the flat nut on the input shaft (it’s the left one!). Now we look inside the box - on the input shaft gear there is a cutout for a large intermediate gear. Place the shaft so that the cutout matches and with neat oblique blows press the input shaft bearing along the shaft. The main thing is not to rush and hit in a circle so as not to distort the bearing and ruin the seat. In the photo there is a shaft that I have already taken out three times, I don’t know what happened before me. As you can see, it is hardened and does not suffer from blows. If the input shaft bearing is worn out, knock it down and install a new one. He suffers perhaps the most, so 90% of him will have to be changed. These bearings come with a closed and open race, I don’t understand the difference - it’s still under the cap.

Lives inside the input shaft roller bearing without clip. Most likely it fell apart during disassembly. Collect it. If the last roller stands up easily, it needs to be changed. With a new set of rollers, the last one can only be inserted with great difficulty and “lengthwise”. It even seemed to me that they slipped me the wrong one :).

Remove the retaining ring from the secondary shaft and unscrew the double-row bearing stoppers. We knock out the secondary shaft. By the way, when I needed to replace only a double-row bearing, I managed to do it without disassembling anything else. I took off the retaining ring and picked it out :) By the way, that box is still running.

Now we take out the 3-4 gear clutch assembly. Remember how it stood - on the contrary, it will fit onto the shaft, but the input shaft will not fit. The copper synchronizers will most likely need to be replaced, as well as three crackers with springs and balls (nowadays they sell crackers without balls, with protrusions, which are easier to assemble). When assembling the coupling, do not turn the inner part relative to the outer one. We take out the secondary shaft and repair the shaft, double row and gears.

Remove the reverse gear shaft. To do this, use a flat-head screwdriver to unscrew the locking screw from the hole (marked in red in the figure), and then knock the shaft out of the box. Inside the gear there is a multi-row bearing with a plastic cage; we take out the retaining rings, the metal tube and remove the defective bearing. The box from the 72nd edition turned out to be intact :).

Unscrew the cover of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft. Try to keep the rubber seal on the lid - it’s a problem to buy. I do not recommend unscrewing it with a core - the lid is made of silumin. I unscrewed it with duckbills with curved ends, but you can make a key like a grinder from a piece of metal and two bolts. The photo shows how the holes become deformed after a couple of unscrewings. We put a piece of copper in the teeth of the gear and unscrew the bolt and nut of the shaft. Left bolt! The nut is 36, I specifically mentioned the key for it. Now you can knock out the shaft and replace (if necessary) the gears and bearings.
Well, that's all, now we assemble the box with new parts in the reverse order. The outer races of the bearings must not rotate in seats. You can combat this by piercing the entire surface of the seat with a herringbone pattern every 5-7 mm (c). If this does not help, the case needs to be replaced. When installing the rollers in the input shaft, generously coat them with “Litol” or something similar and put them on very carefully (the process is fun, like threading a needle). When installing the input shaft bearing cover, pay attention to the cutout in the gasket for the oil channel - it will probably have to be modified. Before installing the gear shift cover, compare the result with the photo. It wasn't all right for me the first time :). When installing a cover with forks, make sure that the forks are in the right place.

Transfer case

First, you need to loosen the nuts of the flanges and transfer case shafts - to do this, insert bolts of suitable diameter into the two holes of the flange and hold them in place. The shaft nuts are hidden under the covers; they must be unscrewed - the shafts come out with the nuts, but then it is very difficult to unscrew them. By unscrewing the flanges, remove the handbrake (at the same time you can check its functionality and change the pads). The soured working cylinder is disassembled and soaked in diesel fuel, checked. There are no spare parts for the brake - either pads or everything assembled.

We remove the covers with oil seals and change the oil seals (unless they are completely new), not forgetting to fill the free space with "Lithol". Unscrew the bolt by 10 and remove the speedometer drive. We unscrew the breather and replace it with a new one (100% soured). Better yet, call the phone to the salon. Unscrew the stopper of the guide forks.

Now you can “halve” the transfer case - Remove all the retaining rings from the bearings, unscrew all the bolts around the perimeter and remove the large cover. If necessary, we change the roller bearing in this cover, the inner race is pressed onto the shaft. There are two bearings on the rear axle shaft, the second one must be inspected.

The transfer case is assembled in reverse order. You need to carefully inspect the flanges and replace them at the slightest sign of wear on the splines; it progresses very quickly. Wear on the forks is also unacceptable. Don't forget to core the nuts.

Let me add one detail to your story about the repair of the RC, namely: when you change the roller bearing on the intermediate shaft, you need to knock out the plug in the RC housing that closes it, because The bearing race is pressed in 3 mm from the outer edge of the housing (you won’t be able to catch this without removing the plug). The plug itself is placed in its place on the fully assembled bearing (so that you can check the bearing tension). Before installation, straighten the plug on the plate, then a thin layer of sealant is applied to the edges of the hole in the RK body under the plug and the plug is seated in place using a mandrel (instead, you can use a piece of pipe with a diameter 6-8 mm smaller, i.e. a tight fit is achieved due to uniform indentation of the middle).

Assembling the unit and installing it in place

We glue the gaskets between the box and the transfer case onto the sealant. We put the mounting bracket to the frame in place. We place the transfer case on the handbrake drum, and holding the gear in the transfer case through the “power take-off hatch,” we lower the box into place, not forgetting to place the same “intermediate shaft thrust washer.” Let's take care of our fingers. We tighten two bolts and two nuts, put on the covers with levers and check the operation of all gears of the box and transfer case. We're glad it worked out.

We replace the release bearing with one pre-welded in nigrol. We remove the levers, drag the unit under the car and hang it on a rope. We put the release assembly on the box and install the spring. Now the most difficult part is to insert the input shaft into the clutch. Slightly moving the box up and down, turning the engine with a jack and turning the engine by the flywheel, sooner or later we put the box in place. You should not place the box close to each other at once - first, on the left, we insert the growers with nuts into the gap. We pull the unit to the engine and attach it to the cushions. Reinstall the clutch fork and oiler for the input shaft splines. We put in place the speedometer drive, covers with handles, handbrake, cardan shafts. Please note that stores often sell disposable cardan bolts. A normal bolt is hardened, with the letter “X” on the head. The letter “CH” on the head indicates the manufacturing plant and does not serve as a guarantee of strength. We put the frame cross member in place and attach the muffler bracket to the transfer case. Setting up the handbrake.

We fill up the oil, put the hatch in the floor and seats in place and go check the results of a well-spent weekend :)