Instructions for installing the front door. Technology for installing a metal entrance door. Necessary tools you can't do without

If you are reading this article, then it’s time to install or replace your front door. A properly installed front door can not only protect you and your home from unwanted guests, but also save the precious warmth of your home. The reliability of the entire door depends not only on the manufacturer, but also directly on the quality of installation.

Often this operation is trusted only to specialists, assuming that they will do everything correctly. But when installing a metal entrance door with your own hands, you will be completely sure that everything was done conscientiously. Plus, you save a considerable amount of money (generally, the installation team takes half the cost of the door for the work). There is no point in saving on materials, because you are trying for your own good. In order to complete all the work as correctly as possible, we created this article.

Removing the old front door

Down with the old doors! Removing the front door is not a tricky task. There is no need to be very careful here (if the door is not useful in the future). You don’t have to worry about the door, but you need to take care of the integrity of the entire doorway. The less the wall is damaged during dismantling, the easier it will be to install the metal entrance door yourself. Let's collect all the necessary tools and go into battle!

STEP 1: remove the canvas. To simplify the process of dismantling the door, remove the door leaf from the hinges. To do this, you will need to slightly lift the canvas with a crowbar or crowbar. This operation will be successful if you take into account that you do not have a collapsible hinge mechanism. If your door has collapsible hinges, then you just need to unscrew them and remove the leaf from the opening. After removal, we set the canvas further aside, it will no longer be useful to us.

STEP 2: threshold. Installation of entrance doors is carried out in a completely cleaned doorway. Before you start removing the loot, you need to get rid of the old threshold. To make it easier to dismantle the threshold, cut it into two parts with a hacksaw and knock it out with something heavy. If you have a hammer at hand, then this can be done in 1–2 blows.

STEP 3: remove the loot. It is best to start removing the loot from the side. We make horizontal cuts on the loot with a hacksaw. Afterwards, we take our favorite crowbar and break out the loot from the opening. Once the side posts are removed, the lintel can be removed very easily, and you may not even need any additional tools.

Before installing the entrance door to the apartment with your own hands, you need to clean the doorway of old plaster and foam. If there are any fasteners of old doors left in the walls, then you need to remove them or simply cut them off with a grinder. If you still managed to dismantle the old door without destroying the wall, then completing all further work The installation will go like clockwork.

Installation of a metal entrance door

So we cleared the doorway from the old door. Now you can start trying on the new door in the opening. For the most accurate and reliable fastening of the door in the opening, you need to disassemble the door a little. We remove the door leaf and install the door frame.

STEP 1: door frame (lutka). We place the door frame in the pre-prepared doorway. At this stage of installing metal doors with your own hands, you should not let go of the construction level. If you don’t have it, you can make it in 5 minutes. The door frame is adjusted using wooden wedge-shaped spacers.

STEP 2: Attaching the Lutka. After placing the frame in the opening, we proceed to fastening it. To securely fix the door frame, you need at least 10 fastening points. There are three types of door frame fastening.

For the eyes
Through the canvas of the box
Grips

The most popular type of installation of entrance doors is the method of fastening with anchors to the eyes. Using a hammer drill or drill with an impact mechanism, a hole 15 cm deep is drilled through the eye. An anchor is inserted there and tightened with a spanner or socket wrench. Often the anchor is replaced with a metal pin. First you need to sharpen one edge of the pin, and the other, on the contrary, flatten it. It is driven into the hole until it stops and welded to the eye.

Also, the installation of the metal entrance door is carried out through the door frame itself. It has special through holes through which you need to drill the wall with a hammer drill and secure it with anchors. In this case, the anchor is tightened only with a socket wrench.

Fastening the door with metal clamps is a more complex installation option. It is used when installing entrance doors in a building with monolithic walls. The main advantage of this mount is that there is no need to drill into the wall. On the front side the door is held in place by special trims, and from the inside by metal hooks that are welded to the inside of the door frame.

STEP 3: canvas. Well, the door frame is securely in place. It's time to hang the door leaf. If your doors have non-separable hinges, then doing this will not be any problem at all. Installing a front door with your own hands is not an easy task. To simplify the entire installation process, find someone willing to help you and simply put the doors on the hinges. But if the doors are equipped with collapsible hinges, then it’s more complicated. Not only does the door need to be hung, but the hinges need to be adjusted correctly so that the closing and opening of the door is soft and clear.

Collapsible hinges
Non-separable hinges

After the doors are in their rightful place, they open and close without problems - we move on to the final stage - the final work on refining the entire structure.

Installation of fittings and final finishing work

The check showed that the doors work as they should, all the gaps are even and there is no distortion. This means that the door frame is installed correctly. It's time to bring beauty around the door, and then install the necessary fittings. In order not to stain the door with foam and plaster, it is advisable to remove the door leaf and seal the door with masking tape.

STEP 1: polyurethane foam. After installing the front door with your own hands, in any case, there will be space between the door frame and the doorway. This space needs to be filled with foam. It acts as a filler and insulation. To make the foam adhere better, we clean the opening from dust and thoroughly moisten it with water. After the polyurethane foam has completely dried, cut off the excess.

STEP 2: filling the opening. After the foam has hardened, it is necessary to level the surface of the technological gap. This can be easily done using putty.

After finishing works– we install the canvas back and continue our commissioning work.

STEP 3: platbands and slopes. After the putty has dried, we proceed to the installation of the platbands. The platbands are attached to the metal door from the outside with screws or rivets. Installing trim greatly improves the appearance of the door. From the inside of the opening, we make slopes from plaster, plastic or drywall.

STEP 4: handle and lock. The final step in the DIY door installation instructions is to install the door handle and lock. Afterwards, we check that the locks are working correctly. For softer and smoother opening and closing of the lock, lubricate the mechanism with special oil. You can use a medical syringe for this. As the saying goes: “you can’t spoil porridge with butter,” and in our case, there is no such thing as too much butter.

That's all! Our step-by-step instruction I have come to the end of installing doors with my own hands. As you can see, the door installation process is simple enough to do it yourself. It is not necessary to involve specialists where you can handle it yourself.

The door is in its rightful place, fully equipped and operational. You can start daily use without fear that something will go wrong with it.

A key element of the security of our apartments and houses are entrance doors. In addition, they are the first to be seen by others. It is important that the entrance doors meet such characteristics and requirements as: reliability, strength, aesthetic appearance, convenience, thermal insulation and sound insulation. And all these characteristics depend not only on the quality and type of the door leaf and door frame, but also on correct installation. No matter how good the door is, however, inept installation can completely ruin it all. the good side. Below we will look detailed instructions about how to install a door with your own hands efficiently and reliably. At the same time, we will try to consider as wide a range of installation options as possible. various designs entrance doors.

Preparation for work, necessary tools

When choosing a door, you should carefully take measurements. To order a door, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions of the doorway. The difficulty lies in the presence of a door frame (frame) and a thick layer of mortar around the entire perimeter. Determining the actual size is sometimes a problem, because there is no clear boundary of the end of the opening. As a result, it is taken into account that nothing should remain in the lower part down to the base of the floor. If there are thresholds or the boat is very raised, then at the time of dismantling all this will be removed. The upper part of the opening never widens, that is, does not rise. The sides can be expanded slightly if necessary, but the width of the support beam, which marks the top edge of the opening, should be taken into account. As a result, the door should be 20-25 mm narrower on each side. In other words, the door frame of the new door should be 40-50 mm less than the total width of the opening and the same amount lower.

To carry out work on installing the front door you will need the following tools:

a hammer drill or impact drill with a drill and a shovel;
level;
roulette;
hammer and sledgehammer;
angle grinder (grinder);
wooden board, ax and saw for forming pegs.

Choice necessary materials differs depending on what will be used to fill the gap between the door frame and the walls. This can be polyurethane foam or cement mortar.

To secure the front door, anchors or metal rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm are also required.

Video: nuances of installing the front door

Work order

Whatever the door design or material, the installation process will be similar, with only a few nuances in each individual case. If the new door is separated from the main frame, it should be removed before installation and set aside while the frame is secured. It is advisable to cover the entire perimeter of the frame and door with masking tape if there is no protective film on it.

If so, then before installation it is necessary to fill the inside of the box with cement mortar or polyurethane foam. Before the actual installation, the filling will have time to set or dry and the excess can be removed.

Typical structure and configuration of an entrance door

Preparing the opening

When dismantling an old door, you should not be particularly careful; it is only important not to damage the walls, especially if they are made of foam concrete or it is an old brick building. The door leaf is removed from the hinges or the hinges are unscrewed from the hinges. Using a grinder or saw, several cuts are made around the perimeter of the door frame and, using a crowbar, it is removed from the opening.

Using a hammer drill, the opening is cleared of excess mortar and plaster around the entire perimeter. Particular attention should be paid to the bottom of the opening. As a result, the door must be mounted flush with the floors in the hallway or corridor, and this parameter depends on whether the screed will still form or not. Moreover, in the vacated opening under the old door there may be a wooden beam or brickwork that has become unusable over time. All this must be cleaned and removed, and instead, if necessary, form a base of bricks or the same wooden beam of the required height.

Basic installation step

From this stage, the help of a second person will be necessary, especially if an iron door is being installed. You need to place the frame from the new front door in the opening and use a level to check whether it can be installed strictly vertically. It should be checked in all planes, preferably in several places. For example, place a level in a vertical rack from the inner end and on one of the adjacent sides, and place the level on the lower partition. As a result, the corresponding level indicators must show a strict level match. If any part of the doorway interferes with leveling, then it is necessary to scrape off the protrusion.

If everything is normal, then the position of the box is fixed with wooden pegs. For this purpose, it is better to use two pads per place. One lining is made with an even thickness 5 mm less than the gap, and the second is in the form of a wedge, while the second part is much longer than the first and is made with a small bevel angle. This makes it easier to adjust the box to level.

Advice: It is better to abandon the old-fashioned method and not fix the door with nails first. In this case, there is a very high probability that the door frame will move.

Once the door is clearly level, you can begin securing it. There are several different options you can use for this. It all depends on the design of the door and a little on the material from which it is made. There should be three attachment points on the sides and two on the top and bottom. That's the minimum.

Initially, the side on which the hinges for the door are located is fixed, starting from the top point. After each fastening, it is better to check with a level that the installation is correct. After this part is secured, you can hang the door leaf and adjust the position of the door frame, and also check that the frame is not deformed and there are no excessive tensions.

After this, you can remove the door leaf again and begin securing the other side and both vertical jumpers of the door frame. Again, adjusting your actions, if necessary, maintaining the level in both planes.

So, ways to fasten the door frame:

Anchor or pin fastening to the eyes. This fastening is most often found on doors of any type. For metal ones, they are an integral part of the box design. Wooden and plastic doors are most often attached with screws.

A hole 10-15 cm deep is made through the hole in the eye using a hammer drill with a drill. An anchor bolt or a pre-prepared pin is inserted into the hole. The pin is a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 8-12 mm, one edge of which is slightly flattened with a hammer to form a head, and the second is sharpened. The fastener is driven all the way into the hole. The anchor bolt is tightened using a socket wrench. If a pin is used, it is welded to the eye.

Anchor or pin fastening through the door frame. Actually, everything is repeated, as in the first option, only the holes for fastenings are made directly at the end of the door frame.

At a wooden door, it is also necessary to prudently drill a recess with a large drill, where the head of the anchor bolt or the flattened edge of the pin will hide.

Grip type fastening. This type of fastening is suitable for a metal door. In this case, the door frame is held by the outer edge to the doorway, and a hook is welded from the inside, which holds to the inside of the wall. This option is suitable for apartments and houses with monolithic walls and allows you to install an entrance door without drilling or drilling holes in the walls.

Completing the installation

When the door frame is secured, the door leaf is hung and its operation is finally checked. To do this, the door opens first 45 degrees, and then 90. In these positions, it should not move spontaneously. There should be no play when closed. If everything is fine, then it’s time to start sealing the gap between the door frame and the wall. Filling with foam will speed up and facilitate this process. But the strength of the polyurethane foam may not be enough, and this will affect the burglary resistance of the entire structure. It is best to use cement mortar with the addition of alabaster. The entire gap is tightly filled with the solution. This will be much more effective with your hands than with a trowel or spatula. The solution for filling the space is prepared so that it does not float. It is advisable to bring it to the state of a loose solution, similar to a curd mass.

The operation of the locks must be checked and, if necessary, the mating parts located on the door frame are adjusted if this option is present in the design. A rubber sealing tape is carefully glued around the perimeter of the door.

Every other day, you can remove the protective film and previously applied masking tape. All that remains is to hang the platbands on the outside of the doorway if necessary. They are screwed onto a wooden door using self-tapping screws with a countersunk head. For reliability and safety, it is better to recess the heads of the screws into the wood of the trim and cover them with wood putty.

In the case of a metal door, the platbands are reinforced with rivets or bolts.

In fact, this is where the process of installing the front door ends. After this, it is necessary to build slopes with the help of which to hide the door fastening points and give a normal aesthetic appearance to the inside of the doorway.

Video instructions for installing a metal door

In this case, we will replace the old, outdated door with a new one that meets the most modern standards.

Checking the new door

The design of the new door allows the door leaf to be removed from its hinges. There are mounting holes on the sides of the door frame.

First, let's screw the door handle on and check its operation. There is nothing complicated about this - you only need two Phillips screwdrivers. The handle is closed with decorative caps.

In the next step, we will check the keys and the proper operation of all locks. Locks should be easy to open and close as if closed door, and when open.

After making sure that everything is working properly, the door leaf can be removed from the hinges, freeing the frame.

Removing the old door and preparing the frame

The old door was attached to the opening with welded metal pins. We remove it, and clear the vacated doorway of debris and old plaster.

Now we glue a seal along the perimeter of the inner side of the casing for the new door frame.

Self-expanding sealing tape is better suited for these purposes. In our case, the door is installed at the border of the street and the house, so careful foaming and sealing of all seams is necessary. Before installing the box, use masking tape to protect the paint coating on its inside.

Our door comes complete with mineral wool insulation. It must be inserted into the corresponding grooves on the outside of the door frame.

Installing a door frame in an opening

When choosing door sizes, it is recommended to leave 20 mm gaps around the perimeter of the frame. The door frame from below is installed on two pads that provide the required gap. By changing the height of the linings, we achieve horizontality of the door frame along the threshold.

Having installed the box horizontally, we check its vertical deviation.

Using pre-prepared pads and wedges, we fix the door frame in a vertical position. When wedged, the box must be completely aligned horizontally and vertically. The side posts of the box have mounting holes through which we will attach the box to the wall.

We select anchor bolts according to the size of the holes.

In this case, anchor bolts for a Phillips screwdriver with dimensions of 10 by 135 mm were used. To more accurately determine the drilling depth, you can use a marker made from a piece of masking tape.

Without touching the box, we drill the first hole in its upper part from the side of the hinges. To drill into a brick wall, use a hammer drill and a 30 cm long drill. An anchor bolt is inserted into the prepared hole.

It must be pushed all the way into the inner plate of the box, and then slightly tightened. Before drilling the second hole, use a building level to make sure that the box remains in place. We will prepare the second hole in the lower part of the box from the side of the hinges.

After installing the anchor, tighten it slightly again. Let’s check again that the box is installed vertically.

Hanging the door leaf

After making sure that everything is in order, we hang the door leaf on the frame.

At this stage, we check that the lock post of the box is installed correctly. When opening and closing the door and locks, you should make sure that they operate without force. Otherwise, you should adjust the lock post of the box using shims. If everything is in order, the next hole is drilled in the rack on the lock side.

When installing the anchor, lightly press it. We sequentially fasten the door through all 8 mounting holes. Having finished fastening, we do a check. A slightly open door should not move in the absence of wind. In addition, the door latch should be closed with one finger without unnecessary noise and effort. After checking, all fasteners must be finally tightened. Let us remind you that for doors installed on the border of the house with the street, the gaps of the doorway and frame are carefully filled with polyurethane foam.

If the vestibule door is in the way and it is not possible to deeply insert the gun with polyurethane foam, the foam is added at an increased rate. Thus, we provide additional flow for the foam to pass further. Foam fills all cavities, providing reliable insulation. When installing a door, do not skimp on foam. Carry out foaming slowly, making sure there are no voids. If some of the gaps in the doorway turn out to be narrow, you can use a special attachment for the mounting gun.

In our case, the upper gap of the opening from the side of the room turned out to be narrow. We foamed it with an additional nozzle. Note that on the street side the upper gap is 20 mm. We do not remove the wedges that hold the door frame until the foam has hardened, and only the next day we begin to dismantle the wedges and supports.

Carefully foam the cavities freed from the wedges. Modern doors usually come with plugs that cover the mounting holes.

We install them.

If the plug is difficult to install by hand, you can use a hammer handle. Now we just have to wait for the foam to dry and cut it off.

After finishing cutting the foam, remove the masking tape.

Our door has a special eccentric for adjusting the latch contact. In some cases, you can use it for final adjustment of the connection.

So, the metal entrance door was installed according to all the rules. This is easy to verify when opening and closing the door.

All rights to the video belong to: DoHow

Doors can be different, interior or entrance, wooden or metal, simple and equipped with various additional automatic systems. And in each case, doors of appropriate complexity must be installed.

Door manufacturers usually install doors themselves, providing a guarantee for the work performed, and, of course, they charge a certain fee for this.

Naturally, installing doors requires the involvement of a team of professionals, but at the same time, the work can be done independently. Knowing the rules for installing interior doors and the nuances of installing a metal door, the entire procedure can be completed by two people in 3-4 hours.

For those who choose the latter option, let's look at how to install a metal entrance door with your own hands.

Nuance. As a rule, the manufacturer does not provide a warranty for a door that is installed by third parties, nor does it adjust it.

Installation of metal entrance doors - instructions

1. Preparatory stage

Door Installation Tool

The set of tools required for the job is shown in the photo.

As we can see, there is no need for a particularly highly specialized professional tool.

Preparing doors for installation

Preparing the purchased door will also not take much time. It needs to be unpacked and checked for completeness. Check how the lock works and make sure that the hinges can be adjusted. Today, only home-made hinged welded hinges are unregulated.

Advice. If the door does not have a protective film, it is recommended to protect it with plastic film and apply masking tape to the door frame.

Preparing the site for installing doors

Preparation of the installation site involves removing furniture from the work site, removing or protecting the floor covering, removing baseboards, and protecting design elements from dust. In addition, you should immediately decide in which direction the door should open and take into account the required gap size. So that in the future the floor covering does not interfere with the operation of the door.

2. Dismantling the old front door

For a new building, this stage is not relevant, but when replacing iron entrance doors in an apartment or private house, it should be taken seriously.

Dismantling a metal door takes no more than an hour and is divided into two components:

dismantling the door leaf. If the door is installed on non-removable hinges, then it can be removed by opening it and lifting it up. The door will easily slide off its hinges. Given the weight of the metal door, a crowbar may be needed. If the hinges are collapsible, then they need to be disassembled using a screwdriver;

dismantling the door frame (metal or wood). It happens that the door frame for a metal door is made of wood, then you need to unscrew all the anchors and remove individual parts from the doorway. You may have to cut the wood into pieces and remove them using a crowbar. Most often, the front door is installed in a metal frame. Then you need to cut off the fastening rods and remove the box. And then eliminate all surface irregularities, remove unnecessary plaster and remove dust.

3. Preparing the doorway for the front door

This stage also differs from the installation of interior doors. And it has several features:

The metal entrance door cannot be cut. Typically, door leaves are sold in standard sizes in increments of 100 mm. Naturally, it cannot be trimmed without violating the integrity and appearance. Therefore, to install a door you need to change the parameters of the opening. The standard width of the doorway of the entrance door (metal) is 86-96 cm (according to fire safety standards). It is convenient to bring furniture into the house through such an opening, household appliances and so on. As a rule, most manufactured entrance doors have this width, so you can simply select the door.

To reduce the opening, you can install a metal frame made of a channel or square. The diagram for installing a metal entrance door in a wide opening is shown in the figure.

The disadvantage of this method is the appearance of cold bridges. They can be eliminated by arranging and insulating the slopes.

To widen the opening you need to cut down part of the wall. To do this, use a grinder. In a house cast from concrete, it is much more difficult to perform such work. Therefore, it is better to calculate the required width before purchasing the door leaf.

Advice. Do not use impact methods to widen the opening, as this may lead to cracking of the building's supporting structure.

The entrance metal door is heavier. The optimal metal thickness for an entrance door is considered to be 2-3 mm. A thinner sheet can be cut using improvised means. This means that it cannot be installed in any opening. For example, the wall of a brick house or a house built from hollow blocks is not strong enough to support the weight of a metal door. In this case, a monolithic concrete portal is cast for the entrance door, which is connected to the wall with reinforcement. And the door frame is already installed in it.

The thickness of the door frame exceeds the thickness of the wall. According to GOST 31173-2003 “Steel door blocks”, the frame cannot be installed in a wall whose thickness is less than 150 mm. In this case, you need to think about thickening the wall.

The load on the floor increases. To do this, the strength of the floor covering in the doorway is checked. If wooden beams or bricks were previously used during installation, it is better to remove them, and clean the area and fill it with concrete. For a lighter door, you can lay new brick or antiseptic-treated timber made of durable wood.

At the same stage, communications are arranged. For example, lighting, doorbell, etc.

4. Installation of the door block in the opening

There are several ways to install a door block with your own hands.

Door block installation technology - diagrams are shown in the figure.

The choice of a specific option depends on the features and weight of the front door. For understanding, we will briefly describe each method.

Method 1 - installing the door block using mounting plates (eyelets)

Schemes 1-3 in the figure. The most popular installation method, because... many manufacturers and shrubs make door frames with protruding lugs. There are usually three of them on each side post. The box is installed so that the plates are adjacent to the outer part of the wall. And the technological gap between the door frame and the wall was 10-20 mm.

A hole is drilled in the wall. Its depth depends on the thickness of the wall and should be 2/3, but not less than 100 mm. Next, anchor or plumbing bolts are inserted through the hole in the eye and tightened with wrenches. Quite often, fittings are inserted into the eyes. A rod thickness of 12-15 mm is sufficient.

Advice. For hollow walls, anchor bolts are not used, and the length of the pin must be increased to 500 mm.

For reliable fastening, the pin is spread out (to form a cap) or welded to the eye.

Advice. To make it easier to insert the reinforcing pin, you can sharpen one end of it.

The installation diagram through the eyes is shown in the photo.

Advice. When installing the door, it is better to orient the eyes towards the inside of the room. This will protect you from cutting the door.

Method 2 - installing the door block through the door frame (frame)

Scheme 4 in the figure above or drawing in the figure below.

It is used if the door is installed in an opening with internal and external slopes. In this case, the wall thickness must be at least 150 mm to avoid internal damage.

To install the door block using this method, holes 100-150 mm deep are drilled through the mounting holes in the metal of the door frame. An anchor bolt is inserted into them and tightened with a wrench, or the fittings are wound in. If holes are not provided in the door, they are drilled with a drill. The size of the technological gap between the wall and the door frame is 5-10 mm.

Advice. When installing the door in this way, take care to protect the door covering. Powder coating can be painted over, but polymer coating cannot be restored.

The installation diagram of the door block through the frame (door frame) is shown in the photo.

Method 3 - installing a door block by concreting the door frame

The newest of the existing ones, but it has already found its supporters. Provides for concreting the door frame, as shown in the diagram.

The essence of the method is that a hollow door frame is used, into which a concrete solution is placed.

The installed box is leveled using a level, anchored (fixed) in the wall using anchors and left until the solution has completely hardened.

Installation of a metal entrance door - rules

Choosing one method or another does not mean that the metal entrance door will be installed correctly. When performing installation, you must adhere to the following sequence of work with the obligatory use of a building level or plumb line.

measure the width of the door in three places (top, bottom, middle);

install the door frame strictly level. This will avoid any distortions in the future. Initially fix the door against the wall using wedges. This will help you to easily and timely correct its position. In this case, it is recommended to place the wedges as close to the corners as possible so as not to damage the covering of the box;

Advice. Vertical alignment must be checked from the outside and inside of the box.

drill holes in the wall. The dimensions of the holes must correspond to the dimensions of the fasteners;

insert pins or bolts into the holes and securely fasten them;

ensure that the threshold is tightly connected to the floor. After all, it will bear the greatest load;

install door hinges, lubricate them, remove unnecessary (extra) grease.

5. Hanging the entrance metal door

The door must be installed with the required clearances. The size of the door gaps in the door frame is constant along the entire perimeter. This will ensure the normal functioning of all locking mechanisms and hinges.

After the door is installed, the ease of opening is checked and the hinges are adjusted. We'll tell you how to do it right.

How to adjust the hinges on the front door

To adjust the door hinges, you need to loosen all the fasteners on the middle hinge, and leave one on the bottom and top hinge tightened.

If the gap exceeds the norm at the top, then you need to loosen the fasteners on the bottom hinge. Once the door leaf is installed correctly, you need to fasten the loose screw on the top hinge, and then the remaining screws on the bottom hinge. After this, the screws are fastened to the top hinge and lastly to the middle one.

Advice. You can check the quality of installation of the front door as follows. Place a sheet of paper on the threshold or counter and close the door. Pull the sheet. It should pull out with some effort.

6. Filling technological gaps with foam

Before starting to fill the gaps between the door frame and the wall with foam, many professionals advise removing the door leaf to prevent foam from getting on it. However, craftsmen advise covering it with film and blowing out the openings with the door closed. This will allow you not to overdo it with foam, which can inflate even a metal box.

Advice. If there are significant gaps between the wall and the box, it is better to seal them with foam plastic, and only then foam them.

Within 24 hours the foam will harden completely and it will be possible to cut it off. If the wooden wedges protrude, it is recommended to cut them off and never hammer them in. This can lead to deformation of the door frame, which can only be eliminated by performing the work again.

Advice. The threshold should not be blown with foam. It will collapse under constant loads. It is better to seal the base and cracks with concrete.

Installation of metal entrance doors - video instructions

7. Decorative design of the entrance metal door and opening

Includes design (finishing) of slopes, fastening of platbands, installation of a door closer, etc.

8. Caring for the metal entrance door

Right installed door made of metal does not require maintenance or lubrication. Therefore, all maintenance comes down to careful operation and care of the door leaf from the inside:

When powder painting, you can use aggressive detergents;

when finishing with vinyl leather and MDF panels, it is better to use a damp cloth without chemicals;

when decorating with laminate, you can use any type of care, the main thing is to wipe the door dry;

when using veneer in door decoration, it is better to use special wood polishes for cleaning;

To clean the handle and locks, use a soft cloth, and the moving part of the lock is periodically lubricated with technical petroleum jelly.

Conclusion

This instruction contains all the details for installing a metal entrance door. By adhering to the recommendations outlined, everyone will be able to implement correct installation DIY iron door.

Installing metal entrance doors is a labor-intensive process that requires certain skills. However, in order to save money, some people decide to do it themselves. In this article we will consider this procedure in detail.

First of all, let's prepare a tool for installing metal doors. So, you will need the following:

Hammer (preferably as powerful as possible). In its absence, you can use an impact drill with appropriate attachments.
Measuring instruments - tape measure, plumb line, level (ideally laser).
Bulgarian woman with a large circle.
A board, a saw - this is needed to create pegs.
The material for filling the joints is polyurethane foam or cement mortar. The first option is simpler, and the second is more durable.
Fastening elements (anchors, rods, etc.). It is better to purchase them complete with the door.
Hammer and chisel.
A wrench for tightening fasteners of the appropriate size. Or a screwdriver with the correct attachment.

If you don’t have a hammer drill or grinder, and you don’t plan to buy such an expensive tool, you can rent it. In many cities across the country there are organizations that provide this service.

A few words about measurements

The first step is to measure the width and height of the opening. You need to measure not from the box, but from the concrete (or brick) base. Only after this can you go to the store. There are two options:

Order a door according to the dimensions of the opening.
Buy a ready-made model with similar parameters.

In the first case, the purchase will cost much more, but you will not have to waste effort on widening (narrowing) the opening. If the current canvas is a new sample, then you will be able to choose a model that is ideally sized. In "Khrushchev" and other standard houses built in the USSR, as a rule, openings of non-standard sizes. Therefore, the installation technology involves expansion. This operation will require a lot of physical strength.

Before placing an order, decide which direction the closing will take place. If your apartment is located against the wall and there is a distribution box (with machines and meters) hanging on it, then it is best for the handle to be located on the other side. In this case, the canvas will not hit the box.

We expand and prepare the opening

Correct installation of a metal door begins with adjusting the opening. If it fits in size, then you only need to level the original surface. To do this, we use thick cement mortar. It is recommended to perform leveling in several layers. Apply the mixture by hand or with a spatula, then level it with a spatula.

Increasing the opening is a very loud and dirty stage of work. So let your neighbors know so you can choose a time when they won't be home. First, we apply markings (U-shaped) around the perimeter. So there are two options. The first is to take a powerful grinder with a large (at least 40 cm in diameter) disc for concrete and simply remove a layer of concrete of the required thickness. In this case, there will be a lot of construction waste.

Second, more gentle option:

We take a hammer drill with a drill larger than the thickness of the wall.
We drill through holes in the wall along the entire perimeter with a minimum step.
Using a hammer and chisel, hollow out the excess concrete.

Important! It is necessary to leave a technological gap of several centimeters so that the position can be adjusted. The cracks will subsequently be sealed.

This technique will take more time, but you will cause less discomfort to your neighbors. At the end we level the surface.

Main scope of work

How much it costs to install a metal entrance door worries many. Such a service will cost at least 4 thousand rubles (depending on the size and complexity). Therefore, doing the work yourself is a rational option, especially if we are talking about an inexpensive model, because installation in this case can be more expensive than the purchase itself.

Advice: if the weight of the complete structure is small and you have enough strength to work with it, then you don’t have to remove the canvas from the box.

So, you need to do the following:

The first step is to check the operation of the canvas. We insert the structure into the opening.
Using a level and plumb line, we check the verticality and consistency of the dimensions. It is necessary to achieve perfect accuracy - a misalignment of even a few millimeters will disrupt operation. If any surface irregularities are found, they must be eliminated.
Having achieved perfect fixation, the box needs to be secured. To do this, insert wooden pegs into the existing gaps (at least 4 pieces for each side).
Having done this, we once again check the evenness of the position.
Now we fix it using fasteners. In budget models, anchors may not be included; they will need to be purchased separately. It is advisable to consult with a sales consultant when purchasing.
The main rule is that there must be at least three fixation points on each side. Only in this case will the correct installation be guaranteed.
First, we secure the side on which the loops are located. There are mounting holes on the box - through them we drill for installing anchors. If they are not present on the jamb, they will first have to be made with a drill with a metal drill. We do 3 for each side with approximately equal steps.
After drilling the holes, insert the bolts and tighten the nuts securely. We carry out this procedure for all parties.
We insert the canvas (if we removed it). We check the smoothness of movement: the door should not open spontaneously. We install it in different positions. She shouldn't wear any of them. If such moments are observed, it is necessary to adjust the fasteners.
To adjust the position, loosen (tighten) the nuts. Pay due attention to this aspect - it will be impossible to make adjustments in the future.

Final stages of work

At this point, installing a metal entrance door with your own hands is almost complete. Now you need to seal the joint that appears. Polyurethane foam is a simple, but not the most reliable option. In addition, its use greatly facilitates the work of burglars. Therefore, we strongly recommend using cement mortar to which alabaster should be added.

The work is simple:

We close the joint from the apartment side with any smooth material at hand (plastic panel, board, etc.). This will prevent the mixture from falling out into the corridor.
Armed with rubber gloves, we throw the solution into the gap from the entrance side. It must be filled out completely.
Using a spatula or trowel, level the solution.
We go into the apartment and remove the barrier.
We apply putty on this side.

The cement mixture takes a day (sometimes two) to dry. Therefore, at this time, try to reduce the use of the door as much as possible in order to prevent cracking of the mortar. Don't forget to check the operation of the locks and handles - they should work smoothly. In case of the slightest defects, ask for replacement. We recommend immediately lubricating all moving elements (keyholes, hinges, etc.). WD −40 is perfect for this.