Correct installation of flexible tiles. Laying flexible tiles with your own hands. Climatic conditions for installation

It’s worth starting a conversation about this type of material by highlighting it benefits before other building materials for roof construction. One of the main advantages is its insignificant weight, as well as the ability to choose the one you need for installation size. It is for this reason that it becomes possible to install flexible tiles yourself.

The basis for choosing flexible tiles is the presence of a roof with a minimum slope of 1:5.

This material can only be installed under certain weather conditions, namely air temperature not lower than five degrees. It is necessary to comply with this rule to preserve the properties of the material, namely shingles– a sheet on which the “tiles” are attached.

Installation of shingle sheets can be produced using various means. Such means include nails and the adhesive layer of tile sheets. At temperatures below five degrees, the adhesive layer does not adhere to the base on which it is applied. In this case, an airtight coating is not created.

Also, at low temperatures, tile sheets become very fragile, and working with them becomes quite problematic.

If there is a need to install flexible tiles during the cold season, it is necessary to build a dome over the roof that will be heated. In this case, installation of tiles is possible.

Structure of flexible tiles

Used for the manufacture of soft tiles fiberglass(in some cases cellulose). To create the base of the tiles, fiberglass treated with bitumen. Then several more layers are applied to the base, which include bitumen of an oxidized-modified configuration, and polymer additives are also added to it.

Such additives give the tiles certain properties: strength, resistance to deformation and flexibility.

In addition to the two main layers, shingles on top treated with a protective layer. It can be mineral chips or basalt granulate. With the help of a protective layer, the tiles are given properties that protect them from climatic influences.

She is given various color shades. To enable fastening of the tiles, an adhesive layer is applied to them, which is protected with a film before use.

Mainly self-adhesive shingles has a hexagonal shape.

Advantages of flexible tiles

The most important advantage of flexible tiles is the fact that they suitable for roofing various shapes and configurations.

The buyer also has the opportunity to choose a material with a wide variety of colors and shapes. There are three modifications of the material: diamond-shaped, hexagonal and classic - rectangular.

The great advantage of flexible tiles is their excellent sound absorption, when this cannot be said about other materials, they are more often called “musical”. In addition, roofing tiles difficult to ignite, which is also its obvious advantage.

Another good property of the material is the fact that the tiles are sufficiently easy to install. It can also be installed at fairly large temperature differences.

Material is good adapted to hail, wind and rain.

The advantages of flexible tiles undoubtedly include:

small amount of waste upon completion of installation;
fungal growths do not form on flexible tiles;
good protection from moisture;
the material does not require additional painting;
ease of implementation repair work, replaceability of individual roof elements;
light weight of the material.
can be purchased for a relatively inexpensive price

Calculation of roofing material

When calculating the amount of material required for do-it-yourself installation of a roof covering, it is necessary to take into account the amount of waste generated, and with this condition, calculations must be carried out with a reserve. The amount of waste directly depends on the configuration of the roof on which the tiles will be installed.

Preparing to lay flexible tiles with your own hands

Before you start installing flexible tiles, you must lay the foundation. Chipboard, boards or moisture-resistant plywood are used as the base. If a board is chosen for the base, then it is best to use a planed one, or better if it is tongue-and-groove.

Important: with a board thickness of 2 centimeters, the rafter pitch should be 6 meters. When laying, the joints of the material must coincide with the rafters.

Before starting work you must treat the roof with an antiseptic. It should be smooth and rigid.

To carry out the installation of tiles you will need:

Underlay carpet - any material based on bitumen, in rolls (used for new roofs). Roofing felt, which was used previously (for old roofs).
Carpet for the valley - the material is necessary for processing joints and abutments.
Sealant and mastic.
Knife and hair dryer.
Construction planks.
Nails (roofing and galvanized).

When all the necessary tools are available, you can proceed to the preparatory work:

Securing the vapor barrier film from the attic side. The film is attached using wooden planks to the ribs of the rafters.
Insulation is laid on the outside of the roof; wooden beams are used to fix it, which are attached to the rafters.
A film is placed on top of the insulation to protect against wind, and it is secured with a counter beam. The sheathing will subsequently be attached to this beam.
OSB, plywood and board are laid on top of the film. Fastening is done using nails or screws with a wide head.

Installation requirements

The main thing that needs to be taken into account when laying flexible tiles, even on the roof of a house, even on the roof of a gazebo, is presence of a level base. If there are any irregularities, they will stand out on the roof once installation is complete. And in some cases, it is in these places that cracks and leaks can form.

Important: tiles cannot be laid on concrete.

Initially, a waterproofing carpet is laid. It is better if it is laid in horizontal directions. It is necessary to start laying it from the bottom of the roof. A valley carpet is best if it is made of a material without joints.

Instructions for installing flexible tiles: nine basic steps:

First stage– this is preparatory work with the foundation, which was mentioned earlier.

To do this, use a material with a uniform surface; this material is secured using nails. The moisture content of this material should not exceed twenty percent of its own weight. The boards should not be less than two spans, which are located between the supports. They need to be fastened to the support places. It is also necessary to calculate the possible deformation of the boards and leave a gap between them.

Second phase– installation of a gap for ventilation – the gap is a necessary element in the construction and further installation of the roof. Its size should be large enough, at least five centimeters. The gap should be located as high as possible on the roof surface, and the hole into which air will be sucked in is at the bottom.

Creating ventilation on the roof is necessary for:

eliminating moisture in internal materials: sheathing, insulation and roofing;
preventing the formation of ice and icicles on the roof;
maintaining a low temperature inside the roof in the summer.

The more correct and better the ventilation is, the longer the roof will last.

Third stage– installation of the lining layer.
For this purpose, special roofing insulating material is used. It must be laid over the entire roof area. It is worth starting the installation from the very bottom of the roof, and moving upward, an overlap is made on the material. The overlap should be at least 10 centimeters.

Along the edges, the material is fixed using nails, the interval between them is 20 centimeters.
On roofs with a slope of more than 18, lining material can only be installed at the ridge and end of the roof, as well as around pipes and joints.

Fourth– installation of metal cornice strips is carried out to protect the edge of the sheathing from moisture. For this purpose, install metal strips. They are installed on top of the carpet lining.

The edge of the material is fixed using roofing nails (steps of 10 centimeters).

Fifth step– installation of metal gable strips is carried out at the end of the roof; gable strips are installed to protect the sheathing. The overlap of the planks should be at least two centimeters.

Sixth– installation of a valley carpet – improves the water resistance of the roof. This coating matches the color of the selected roofing tile.

Seventh– installation of cornice tiles. Initially, cornice tiles are installed along the eaves of the eaves. This is done using its pecking base. Laying is done end-to-end. It is necessary to retreat 2 centimeters from the bend of the cornice strip. Then you need to nail the tiles. This must be done close to the perforation site, so that the fastening points will then be covered by the next row of tiles.

Eighth step– installation of tiles.

Important: in order to avoid color differences, it is necessary to use tiles from five packages at a time.

The tiles are installed from the center of the eaves overhang and towards the end. Before attaching the tiles, the protective film is removed. Each piece of tile is nailed with four nails. At
On a large roof slope, it is necessary to increase the number of nails to six.

When installing the first row of tiles, one condition must be met. It is necessary that it extends one centimeter onto the eaves tiles.

The tiles have petals. They serve to close the joints with the previous row. During further installation, the rows are mounted according to a different pattern, namely: the joints should not be closed, but should be at the same level or higher than the previous row

Ninth step– installation of junctions.

In order to make small passages through the roof, rubber seals are used. Places where heating occurs, namely near pipes, must be insulated. A triangular strip is nailed at the joint, and then the lining carpet is installed, all seams and overlaps are coated with glue.

All vertical joints are processed using the same technology.

Ways to care for roofing tiles

In order for the coating to last for a long time, it is necessary to check its technical condition twice a year.
It is necessary to equip the roof with free drainage for water. Drains and gutters should be cleaned regularly.
Using a soft brush, debris is removed from the roof; this must be done regularly.
In winter, snow removal from the roof is necessary only in cases of emergency, if the snow layer is more than twenty centimeters. Do not remove ice from the roof using sharp objects.
If a breakdown is detected, repairs must be made immediately so that the destruction does not take on a larger scale. During repair work, it is necessary to protect the coating from the impact of walking.

Popular manufacturers: TechnoNIKOL, Deca, Shinglaz, etc.

IN Lately Asphalt shingle roofing has become very popular among developers. This roofing covering has an attractive appearance, not inferior in beauty to traditional tiles, long service life and high moisture resistance. Thanks to the self-adhesive layer on the back of the shingles, laying a soft roof with your own hands can be done even without professional experience. In this article we will tell you how to properly prepare the base, assemble the sheathing and lay flexible tiles.

Flexible tiles are tiles with a curved edge, made of fiberglass impregnated with modified petroleum bitumen. Laid overlapping, such a roof imitates a rarely used but aesthetically pleasing shingle covering made from wooden blocks. The fiberglass that is part of the bitumen shingles can be simple or reinforced polyester. The production technology of this material includes sprinkling the front side with an armoring coating of stone or basalt chips, which gives color and a rough texture to the roof. The advantages of flexible tiles are:

Durability. The service life of a soft roof based on fiberglass reinforced with polyester is more than 70 years, which fully pays for the cost of installing the roof.
Weather resistant. Soft tiles withstand exposure to atmospheric moisture, ultraviolet rays and other adverse environmental factors, maintaining performance.
Aesthetics. The variety of shapes and colors of the material opens up enormous opportunities for creating a harmonious, integral image of the house.
Flexibility. Flexible, elastic bitumen tiles are suitable for arranging roofs of complex shapes with big amount slopes, valleys and other decorative elements.

Important! The technology for laying bitumen shingles is distinguished by its simplicity, so it can be easily done even by a non-professional. Do-it-yourself soft roofing is an excellent solution for the roof of a private house, country cottage, gazebo or townhouse.

Features of working with the material

Before covering the roof with a soft roof, you need to make sure that a reliable foundation is prepared for the work. Also, the technology for installing a soft roof involves performing the work under certain weather conditions. If you do not follow the manufacturer's recommendations, you may encounter the following problems:

If you lay shingles at temperatures environment less than 5-10 degrees, then the self-adhesive layer on the back of the tiles does not melt on its own. To melt the bitumen you have to use a gas burner or a hair dryer. However, this makes laying the tiles difficult and slow.
If you lay flexible tiles at temperatures above 25 degrees, the self-adhesive bitumen layer will melt too much and flow down the slope. In addition, high temperatures lead to deformation of the roof.
If you install the roof in damp weather or during rain, the rafter frame and sheathing acquire excess moisture, which negatively affects the service life of the tiles, leading to rotting.

Important! The material installation technology recommended by the manufacturers requires installation at a temperature of 5-15 degrees in dry weather. Most often, such conditions develop only in the summer. However, in winter period you can assemble the rafter frame for the roof and prepare the base for laying the roof covering.

Installation of sheathing

Before making a soft roof, you need to assemble a high-quality, durable sheathing. The technology for laying bitumen shingles involves the use of a continuous base, which imparts rigidity and mechanical strength to the soft roofing covering. The sheathing must ensure uniform distribution of the weight of the roof between the rafters, so it is created from 3 layers:

Counter-lattice. The counter-lattice for soft tiles is made of wooden blocks 3-4 cm thick. It is attached along the rafters of the frame on top of the waterproofing material. The purpose of the counter-lattice is to create a ventilation gap between the rafters and the roof covering.
Sparse lathing. This base element for soft tiles is made from edged boards measuring 20x150 mm. The boards are nailed perpendicular to the counter-lattice at a distance of 30-50 cm.
Continuous sheathing. It is made of moisture-resistant plywood, OSB sheets or edged boards, laid solid with a gap of 1-3 mm, compensating for the thermal expansion of the material. To prevent damage to soft tiles, it is necessary to sand or sharpen the sheathing elements so that they are smooth.

Please note that to make sheathing for a soft roof, it is correct to use coniferous wood that has dried up to 20 percent. To prevent premature decay of wooden elements, they are treated with antiseptic drugs. If the structure has a high risk of fire, then the sheathing is impregnated with fire-retarding compounds.

Underlay carpet

Do-it-yourself soft roofing is laid on a continuous sheathing made of particle board or moisture-resistant plywood. An underlay carpet is laid on top of the base - a lining made of moisture-resistant bitumen material that is resistant to mechanical damage. The underlayment protects the roof from leaks, as well as from damage to the bitumen shingles due to irregularities in the sheathing. The coating installation technology recommends:

If the roof slope is less than 15-18 degrees, lay a lining carpet on the entire surface of the slopes with an overlap of 15-20 cm, since water can be retained on it during the melting of large snow masses.
If the angle of inclination of the slopes is more than 20 degrees, the lining carpet can be laid only in places that are particularly vulnerable to leaks, where water can accumulate or stagnate. Additional waterproofing is used to protect valleys, the joints of slopes with vertical surfaces, and the ridge.
Do not use ordinary roofing felt as a lining. The low price does not compensate for the poor quality, fragility and short service life of this material.

Experienced craftsmen advise using the material recommended by the manufacturer as an underlayment, since it is guaranteed to be compatible with the selected bituminous shingles.

Laying

Installation of a soft roof with your own hands is carried out in dry, windless weather at a temperature of 5-15 degrees. If the material is laid on an old rafter frame, then it is necessary to check the condition of the wood and then replace rotten or deformed elements. Installation is carried out in the following order:

First, the slope is marked with horizontal stripes, marking the location of the rows of soft roofing using white chalk.
It is correct to start laying the material from the bottom of the slope, using the starting strip. Fix the roofing with nails or a self-adhesive layer. If the tiles are self-adhesive, then to glue them it is enough to remove the protective film and then press it tightly to the base of the roof.
If nails are used to fix the coating, they must be placed no closer than 2.5 cm from the edge, and must be driven flush with the surface of the material.
The second row begins to be laid on the left side of the slope using tiles, from which 143 mm are cut off from the left edge, thus shifting the pattern of the bitumen shingles diagonally.
To start, cut off a fragment 286 mm long from the left edge of the third row of tiles in order to also shift the coating pattern in the diagonal direction.
After completion, the ridge is decorated using a ridge element, junction points with vertical surfaces and valleys.

Note! In order for a roof made of soft tiles to function correctly, it is necessary to equip a ventilation system to avoid the “greenhouse effect” and rotting of the rafter frame of the structure.

Video instruction

Any owner of his own home wants his roof to be reliable and inexpensive. By doing the installation work yourself, you can save a lot. In order to end up with high-quality housing, it is necessary to use the technology of laying bitumen shingles. When choosing a soft covering, you need to lay it correctly. Only high-quality installation of flexible tiles with your own hands will allow the roofing covering not to deteriorate for many years. At the end of the article, a video of the technology for laying flexible tiles will be presented.

The technology for laying soft tiles has some nuances that should not be forgotten. To understand some aspects of installing tiles, it is necessary to study this roofing material.

Advantages of flexible tiles

This base has the main advantages - it is light weight and low cost. The lightness of soft tiles allows you to make the foundation and house not very massive, thanks to this there is a saving on building materials and labor costs. Inexpensive cost roofing material allows it to compete with heavy types of roofing.

Other advantages:

High frost resistance.
Resistant to strong winds.
Good tolerance to sudden temperature changes.
High heat resistance.
Consistency of color over time.
Resistant to a variety of precipitation.

Preparation before laying flexible tiles

For the base for the tiles use:

Planed boards are used, and best of all, tongue and groove. They are laid in such a way that the joints hit the supports, spanning two spans. The boards should have a gap of five millimeters. It is necessary because wood can expand due to changes in temperature and moisture.

If plywood is used, then the rafters must have such a distance that the plywood sheets rest on the rafters. Ready the base must be level and rigid.

In addition, for installation you will need:

Underlay carpet. Any bituminous material can be used for a new roof. If the roof is old, then use previously laid roofing material.
Valley carpet. It is used for waterproofing junctions with ventilation pipes and walls.

Using necessary materials and tools, begin preparatory work before laying flexible tiles.

First, a vapor barrier film is attached to the inside of the roof. It is nailed to the edges of the rafters, and attached to the ends with wooden planks. The film strips are secured with tape.

From the outside insulation is being laid. To fix it to the rafters, wooden blocks are used. A windproof film is placed on top of the insulation. It is secured with a counter beam. The sheathing is subsequently nailed to it. Then boards, plywood or OSB are laid, secured with self-tapping screws.

Do-it-yourself installation of soft tiles takes place in accordance with temperature restrictions. This is necessary due to the structure of the material. Very firmly flexible tiles are connected to each other at high temperature , which is achieved due to the sultry sun. At low temperatures, it may fall off the base to which it is glued. In cold weather, you can use a hair dryer to heat sheets of material. Sometimes the attic space is heated.

First, they spread it around the entire perimeter of the roof. underlay carpet, nailing him by:

Along the cornice.
In the valleys.
Along the front overhang.
On the ridge.
In places where the roof slope is broken.

If the roof has a slope of more than 20 degrees, then the entire area is covered with lining carpet. Start from the bottom, spreading the carpet perpendicular to the sheathing. You need to nail it overlapping to a width of 15 centimeters with a fixation step of 20 centimeters. All connections are sealed with sealant or bitumen mastic. A cornice strip is nailed on top of the carpet, protecting the sheathing from moisture. If the cornice strip cannot be nailed, then the cornice strip is wrapped under the sheathing and nailed in increments of 5 centimeters.

Then to the gable nail the end strips. To connect them better, you need to trim the edges with scissors and finally secure them. In the same way, the slats are adjusted on the ridge. They protect the wooden sheathing and divert water from the ridge downwards.

Strips of ridge-eaves bitumen shingles are placed on top of the nailed eaves overhang strip. They are nailed, retreating from the edge 2.5 centimeters, joint to joint. These places are coated with bitumen mastic. Then the brackets, which are intended for gutters, are attached.

The valley carpet is applied as a second layer on top of the main one. Spread it in places where moisture can accumulate, in niches, at junctions. It is fixed with galvanized nails, and the edges are coated with mastic.

The most important stage of installation comes - laying flexible tiles with your own hands. Start laying from the central part of the slope. After removing the protective film from it, it is pressed firmly to the base. It is nailed along the top with four nails. The bitumen shingles are retreated from the strip of ridge-eaves by five centimeters. In this case, the perforation of the ridge-eaves strip must be completely covered with the petals of the glued tiles. It is trimmed along the edges of the pediment line and glued with mastic.

An important point in installation is the intersection with the ventilation and chimney. The base of the ventilation must be treated with mastic. Then a hole the size of this ventilation device is cut in the shingles. After laying soft tiles, it the base is coated with bitumen mastic.

With a chimney everything is much more complicated. In the place where it is adjacent to the roof, three slats are nailed in the shape of a triangle, so that the right angle is at the base of the pipe. Then a lining carpet is nailed around the pipe, and the overlaps are coated with bitumen mastic. After this, the roofing material is laid so that its upper edge rests on the batten and rests against the pipe. A valley carpet is installed on top of the tiles. The sheets are partially glued and nailed to the roof, and the rest is lifted onto the pipe and glued with bitumen mastic. The upper part of the carpet on the pipe is covered with an apron, and the seams are coated with sealant.

Below is Video instruction.

Final installation of soft tiles

The tiles are laid out row by row up to the ridge. Installation is carried out in such a way that all the petals of the material are located at the same level and cover the nails. The ridge is covered with ridge-eaves flexible tiles. To do this, it is divided and torn along the perforations. Remove the film from the adhesive side and put on the ridge, bending in the middle so that the short side of the tile is parallel to the ridge. Using nails, the tile is nailed to the side hidden under the next tile. You need to drive the nails in this way: two on one side of the ridge, two on the other. Many people install a ridge aerator on the ridge, which creates additional ventilation in the attic.

Thus, if you correctly follow the technology of laying flexible tiles, then such a roof can last for a very long time. To prevent it from becoming overgrown with moss, it must be cleaned and washed with antiseptic agents every 5 years, and also monitor the condition of the ventilation holes. Do you want to know how to install flexible tiles? The video below will help you.

Scientific and technological progress has not bypassed any branch of human activity, including production building materials. Nowadays, there are many products that are used for roofing, soft tiles are especially popular among them. It is worth noting that any roofing material will last the entire (or even longer) warranty period if the installation technology is followed. The advantages of bitumen shingles over their competitors are as follows: they forgive minor installation flaws, they can be used to cover roofs with a slope of 11 degrees.

Soft tiles can be used to cover roofs with a slope of 11 degrees.

Laying flexible tiles in winter is not the best idea; most manufacturers recommend carrying out all work in above-zero temperatures (from +5). The fact is that the sheet with “tiles” must be attached to a wooden base and lining carpet, the surfaces are fastened with a self-adhesive layer, the tightness of the coating is ensured only in bright sunlight, which gradually “melts” the adhesive substance. But in sub-zero temperatures, you can begin preparatory work: install rafters, wooden flooring, insulate the structure, perform steam and waterproofing.

If there is no other way out and you need to put the house into operation in the winter season, then these recommendations are especially for you! First, erect a metal or wooden structure on top of the roof and cover it with a special noise-proof or dust-proof film or simple polyethylene film. Inside, the “second roof” will be heated by diesel heat guns, so you can maintain the optimal above-zero temperature. By the way, the “warmhouse” also allows you to carry out plastering work.

Laying bitumen shingles

As a base for bituminous shingles, a material with a flat surface (for example, OSB, tongue-and-groove plywood or edged board) and a humidity of no more than 20% is suitable. Place the joints of the boards where the supports are located. The thickness of the plywood and boards should be optimally correlated with the pitch of the rafters; as an example, we list some values:

With a rafter pitch of 60 cm, the thickness of the board should be 2 cm, and the plywood should be 1.2 cm.
With a step of 90 cm, the thickness of the board is 2.3 cm, and the plywood is 1.8 cm.
With a step of 60 cm, the thickness of the board is 3 cm, and the plywood is 2.1 cm.

Why is ventilation needed? There are at least two points here:

To reduce the formation of icicles and ice on the roof in winter.
To drain water from sheathing and roofing material.

Most often, a rolled insulating product is used as a reinforcing lining, which is mounted from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm. Seal the seams with glue and secure the edges with nails in 20 cm increments. If the slope of your roof is 18 degrees or more, it is possible to install a spacer layer only in the valleys, on the eaves, near the chimneys, where the roof adjoins the vertical walls.

We install eaves strips, gables, valley carpet, ordinary tiles

To protect the sheathing from moisture, install metal eaves strips (droppers) on the eaves overhangs (at the top of the lining carpet), with an overlap of 2 cm. Nail them with roofing nails in a zigzag manner, step 10 cm. Pediment strips are also installed with an overlap, but narrower 2 cm (step – 10 cm).

To increase the waterproofness of the structure in valleys, lay a valley carpet on top of the lining layer that matches the color of the tiles. The step between the nails is 10 cm. Next, it’s up to the self-adhesive eaves tiles; lay them along the eaves overhang, joint to joint, removing the protective film. Step back 2 cm from the bend of the eaves strip, nail the elements near the perforation points, and after the fastening point, cover with ordinary tiles.

To avoid color discrepancies, it is recommended to use roofing elements mixed from several packages. Start laying ordinary tiles from the center of the eaves overhang to the end parts of the roof. Remove the protective film, place the tile in the intended place, nail the element (4 nails above the groove line; if the roof slope is more than 45 degrees, then increase the number of fasteners to six).

Start laying soft tiles so that the edge of the first row is located 1 cm higher from the bottom edge of the eaves product, and the “petals” hide the joints. The “petals” of subsequent layers should be flush with the cutouts of the elements of the previous row. At the end, cut the material along the edge and glue it (a strip of glue is about 10 cm). Leave an open strip of 15 cm at the bottom of the valley.

Ridge tiles are obtained by dividing the tiles into 3 parts at the perforation points. Install the elements with the short side parallel to the ridge, nail them with nails (two on each side). Now a little about! The antenna holes are equipped with rubber seals; smoke - need to be insulated.

Consumption and method of applying sealing adhesive

To seal the overlaps of row tiles on the valley carpet and underlay carpet, joints, and passages of ventilation systems, bitumen glue is needed. Let's talk about composition consumption:

To process the overlaps of the underlay carpet (the width of the glue application is 10 cm), you need 0.1 liters of glue for each linear meter.
To process the overlaps of ordinary tiles onto the valley (the width of the glue application is 10 cm), you need 0.2 liters of glue for each linear meter.
To glue ordinary soft tiles to the end elements (the width of the glue application is 10 cm), you need 0.1 liters of glue per linear meter.
To treat brick walls and pipes (over the entire surface), you need 0.7 liters of glue per linear meter.

Before work, of course, you need to clean the base from dirt, bulk materials, and oil; Apply bitumen solution to dusty and porous surfaces. For glue, you will need a spatula; make the layer thickness about a centimeter. Grout joints in brickwork flush with the tiles. Gluing will occur in just 3 minutes (complete drying takes from one day to two weeks), hurry up! At low temperatures, warm up the glue before applying the composition.

Caring for flexible tiles

We list the rules that will help increase the service life of the structure:

Check the condition of the roof twice a year.
Sweep leaves and other small debris from the surface with a soft brush as carefully as possible, so as not to damage the coating.
Ensure free flow of liquid from the roof, and do not forget to regularly clear the funnels and gutters of debris.
When cleaning the roof in winter, leave about 10 cm of snow on the roof, this will protect the material from frost. Do not use sharp objects to remove ice as they may damage the shingles.

The technology for laying soft tiles assumes that the shingles are fastened only in sunny weather. Under no circumstances should you heat it with burners. As a last resort, it is permissible to glue the tiles with bitumen glue and try to warm up the attic space or the roofing itself using a hair dryer.

Materials and tools

For installation you will need:

sealant or roofing mastic;
construction strips for fixing junction points, cornice and front;
regular galvanized and special roofing nails;
knife for cutting shingles;
construction hairdryer

Stages of preparatory work

Before covering the roof with soft tiles, the roof must be properly prepared.

A roofing pie is formed.
A rigid and level base made of plywood, high-quality boards or OSB boards, which is pre-impregnated with an antiseptic, is laid on top of the windproof film.
Under the tiles, put a lining carpet made of old roofing felt, if the roof is being repaired, or any rolled bitumen material. It is carefully nailed in places where the roof joins other architectural elements, in places where the slope breaks, along the front overhang and cornice, in valleys and along the ridge. When the slope of the roof slopes is more than 20 degrees, the material is nailed over the entire surface in increments of 15-20 cm. At the joints and overlaps of the carpet sheets, it is treated with sealant or bitumen mastic.
A drip line (eaves strip) is nailed on top of the carpet, which will protect the sheathing structure from moisture. If, due to the architectural features of the roof and structure, it is not possible to nail it, the cornice strip is wrapped under the sheathing and fixed with nails every 5 cm.
Before laying soft tiles along the gable, end strips are also nailed in to protect the sheathing and help drain moisture down from the ridge.
Next in line are ridge-eaves shingle strips. The shingle strips are nailed end-to-end at a distance of about 2.5 cm from the edge. The joints are coated with bitumen mastic and the free edges of the strips are glued to it.
Next, they usually pay attention to the installation of the drain, in particular, installing brackets that will subsequently support its elements.
Separately, in places adjacent to walls, other slopes, ventilation pipes and other structures, in niches and other places where moisture is likely to accumulate, an additional waterproofing valley carpet is also created from bituminous materials. It is nailed with galvanized nails at intervals of 10 cm, and the edges are coated with waterproof glue or mastic.

It is known that flexible tiles may differ in color depending not only on the batch, but also on the packaging. An important point is the need to use sheets from only one pack on each roof slope, or to sequentially take material from all packages at once so that differences are not noticeable. Subsequently, the color of the coating will be adjusted under the sun and become more uniform.

Laying soft tiles begins from the bottom of the central part of the roof slope. The protective film is removed from the adhesive part of the sheet and it is pressed tightly to the place of fixation. The upper part is additionally fixed with four nails. In this case, you need to retreat 4-5 cm from the cornice-ridge strip. The shingle shingles with their petals should completely cover its perforation. Along the edge of the pediment, the material is trimmed and glued with mastic.

An equally important stage is laying the covering in places near the ventilation. chimney and other structures. The base under the tiles in this place is treated with mastic. A corresponding hole is cut in the shingle according to the dimensions of the adjacent structure. It is fixed in place. If necessary, the base is lubricated with mastic again.

It is somewhat more difficult to lay tiles near the chimney. First, slats in the shape of a right triangle are nailed in this place. Its right angle should be facing the pipe. A lining carpet is laid in advance around the pipe itself, and at overlapping joints it is coated with mastic.

Installation of soft tiles near the chimney pipe is carried out according to the following algorithm:

the upper edge of the sheet is pressed against the pipe, placing it on a pre-prepared rail;
a valley carpet is laid on top of the tile sheet;
some of the sheets are lifted onto the pipe to a strand height of 30 cm, and the other is glued to a height of about 20 cm and nailed to the roof;
the carpet on the pipe is covered with a junction strip or a metal apron;
all seams are carefully treated with sealant;
if necessary, if the roof slope is steep enough and the pipe is large, you can build an additional gutter to drain water from the chimney area.

The final stage of installation of flexible tiles

The remaining sections are covered with overlapping shingles so that the petals of the next one cover the places where the previous one is attached to the nails.

Another important step at the end of the work will be securing the ridge strip. It is divided into two equal parts along the perforation and laid on the ridge. Two nails are nailed on each side of the tile. The overlap should be at least 5 cm.

A good solution would be to lay an aerator strip, which will ensure good ventilation of the under-roof space. To create a ridge aerator, slots are cut on both sides of the strip, which are subsequently covered with aerator tape.

Professional installation of flexible tiles can be done with your own hands. If the technology is followed, the service life of the coating will be at least 35 years. If the roof is subjected to periodic inspection and minor repairs are made in a timely manner, its durability will increase by at least another 10 years.