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Embroidery instructions

1. Preparation for work.

Canvas and diagram

These cross stitch instructions will help you understand how to properly embroider according to the pattern and where to start. Determine the center of the embroidery by folding the canvas in four. It corresponds to the center of the diagram, which is defined by two intersecting lines with arrows at the ends. Please note that the diagram does not reflect the finished embroidery size. The cells in the diagram correspond to the squares on the canvas. Empty cells indicate areas that are not embroidered (Fig. 1).

Threads

The skein floss consists of 6 threads. To ensure that the finished work does not differ from the photo on the cover of the set and to avoid shortages of floss, use the number of threads strictly indicated in the pattern of the set. Figure 2 shows what “1-thread embroidery” and “2-thread embroidery” mean.

2. Cross stitch

It is more convenient to embroider from the center, moving towards the edges. First, the main stitches-crosses and half-crosses are embroidered, then additional stitches - line stitch, French knots, etc. The working thread is secured on the wrong side under the first few stitches (Fig. 3). Having completed the fragment, finish the piece of thread, also passing it under the existing stitches. There is no need to make knots, as the embroidery will look uneven.

It is better to embroider in horizontal rows. Place the bottom stitches first, moving in one direction, then the top stitches, returning (Fig. 4). To ensure neat embroidery, keep the top and bottom stitches in the same order. The thread tension should be the same, moderately loose, so that the cross is voluminous.

When moving from one piece of embroidery to another, do not pull the thread from the wrong side more than 2-3 cm, otherwise the embroidery will bristle. It is better to cut the thread and fasten it again in another area.

If you make a mistake, unravel the stitches with a needle; unraveling with scissors can damage the canvas.

3. Extra stitches

They are performed last, on top of embroidered crosses.

Seam stitch

This seam is used to sew individual details to give the embroidery more expressiveness. In the diagram it is indicated by thin lines.

Performed using the “back needle” method. The needle comes out to the front side at point 1 and goes to the wrong side at point 2. Then it comes out from the wrong side at point 3 and returns along the front side to point 1, etc. (Fig. 5). It is better to break long stitches into small ones, 1-1.5 cm long, while clearly following the pattern.

Stem seam

Performed from left to right using the “back needle” method. The needle comes out to the front side at point 1 and leaves at point 2. The needle with the second stitch 2-3 comes out to the front side at point 3, the middle of the previous stitch 1-2, enters the canvas at point 4 and comes out at point 5, coinciding with point 2 (Fig. 6). The working thread should always be on one side. You cannot change the direction of the thread during work, otherwise the structure of the seam will be disrupted. All stitches must be the same size.

French knot

Bring the needle from the wrong side to the right side of the canvas. Wrap the thread around the point of the needle (once for a single-wound knot, twice for a double-wound knot). While pulling the thread, bring the needle point to the wrong side, departing 1-2 mm from the outgoing thread. Gently pass the needle to the wrong side, while pressing the knot thumb. Tighten the knot (Fig. 7).

Attaching beads

Thread the needle and bring it to the front side of the embroidery. Thread the bead onto a needle and lower it down the thread all the way to the canvas. Bring the needle to the wrong side at the same point to secure the bead in place (Fig. 8).

4. Washing and ironing

We recommend washing the finished embroidery in a lukewarm soapy solution, then gently wringing it out, wrapping it in a towel, and letting it dry a little while flattened. Iron the wet work face down on the towel, without pressing, so that the crosses on the front side do not wrinkle and remain convex.

5. Design

Designing finished embroidery is an art. It has great importance, and should harmoniously complement the picture. It is important to correctly choose the color and size of the mat, the style and texture of the frame. To do this, it is best to contact a framing workshop.

The desire to decorate fabric or other material that can be pierced with patterns has remained in man since primitive times, when roughly dressed animal skins were used as clothing.

Simple criss-cross patterns, originally used for stitching skins, gradually became distinctive signs of belonging to a particular tribe. As people learned to dye animal veins, strong long fibers of herbs, wool and hair twisted into threads in different colors.

As humanity developed, embroidery turned into one of the types of needlework - a real art of transforming any fabric (leather, canvas, cambric, calico, gauze, muslin, tulle, etc.) into an exquisite object of beauty.

Appeared different types embroidery, but cross-stitch needlework still remains a priority, since it is quite easy to perform, does not require intense time and expensive materials, and the accessories for it are accessible and do not take up much space - a cozy corner in the smallest apartment is enough for them.

To cross stitch step by step you will need:

1. Special material - canvas.
2. A device for stretching and fixing the material - a hoop or frame.
3. Needles with blunt tips - the fabric has a loose (discharged) structure.
4. Special threads (floss, acrylic, wool).
5. Small sharp scissors.

The following may also be useful for work:

• lamps,
• magnifying glasses,
• magnetic boards.

Let's look at each of the items.

Canvas, its types and sizes

Before you wonder how to cross stitch correctly, pay attention to the canvas for work. Fabric for cross stitch needlework is made of uniformly structured threads, the weave of which is the simplest: one warp through the other (weft). This weaving is called “plain” and is used in many textile fabrics, from homespun linen, linen and cotton, to silk and wool.

The weaving of such fabric forms separate squares with easily distinguishable holes into which a needle can freely pass, pulling the thread in 2 or more folds.

The canvas can be used as an overlay when it is sewn to the fabric on which the work is planned to be transferred (after finishing, the discharged canvas is simply pulled out from under the finished thread embroidery), or as a permanent base, which, after completion, is sewn onto another, denser fabric.

To create paintings, a permanent base is most often used.

Вlockweave and Evenweave

Plain weaving, in turn, is divided into:

• Evenweave - uniform, when the fabric is smooth and infinitely even, without “damage”;
• Blockweave - block when the weave forms clear, “outlined” squares.

Types of plain weave are easily distinguishable even with the naked eye.

Another advantage is the fact that the Blockweave base often has much larger holes - it is almost impossible to stick a needle in the wrong place.

Such a base (with pre-marked holes or threads pulled out in certain squares) can be called “hemming”, “flooring” or “weaving”.

Needlewomen call it “guipure” or “stitching”.

The permanent base of Blockweave is an ideal solution for beginners who want to try combining different types of seams:

• full cross;
• half cross;
• ¼ or ¾ cross;
• backstitch;
• and etc.

The canvas on which the needlewoman herself will have to determine the dimensions of the embroidered lines is called evenweave canvas (or Evenweave) and therefore it is recommended for experienced workers who can handle complex and incomplete crosses.

The picture ultimately turns out to be realistic, especially if there are white spots free from the space “shaded” with color, like on an artist’s canvas. There are no needle holes on this material, so unused stains will not detract from the overall appearance.

Stramin and plastic

A very dense canvas used for needlework in tapestry or carpet embroidery is called stramin. Since these techniques use wool and acrylic, the holes in the canvas are large enough for a thick thread to easily pass through them. A thick seam makes it look voluminous and large, and the picture itself is soft and plush.

When cutting the contour of a plastic canvas, it does not unravel or crumble, and retains the given shape and beauty of the work. Handicrafts on plastic material must be very neat from the inside out, because such a canvas is an ideal basis for cards and other cute little things. It comes not only in different colors, but also various forms, convenient for creating souvenirs.

Water-soluble canvas is the latest know-how for hardworking craftswomen. When the thread pattern is completed, it is enough to lower the base into warm water and the canvas itself will dissolve.

Sizing

Aida canvas, produced by Zweigart, and Hardanger canvas are the most popular today.

Both are made from 100% cotton with the possible addition of another thread or lurex, and have the same range of sizes and counts.

Count – the size of the canvas, expressed as a digital value.

This means that the larger the count, the larger the embroidered elements will be and the fewer of them will fit on an inch-long line. (1 inch = 2.54 cm) On the basis, numbers will be indicated before or after the letters ST - the count number.

Since calculations in inches are unusual for post-Soviet people, it is customary to recalculate them in centimeters. The most convenient recalculation is immediately by 10 cm.

The cross stitch pattern is as follows:

• ST11= 43 cr. (by 10 cm);
• ST14= 55;
• ST16= 63;
• ST18 =71;
• ST22 = 87.

On large-sized counters (numbers up to 11), designer-designed images will not be obtained - the cross is too rough for exquisite paintings.

It is important to know the number of crosses in a line (in length and width) to determine the required dimensions of the fabric when starting work.

The calculation scheme is as follows: divide CT by 2.54 and multiply by the number of required centimeters. We get the number of crosses.

For example: ST = 18. /18:2.54=7.08/ 7.08x15(cm)=106

It turns out that with count No. 18, 106 crosses will fit in a line 15 cm long.

Which number to choose

Practice has shown that for tireless needlework, which does not require a magnifying glass or additional lighting, CT 14 is ideal. On such a count you can sew with double thread - this will not spoil the final result at all, the work will be neat and voluminous.

ST 16 – for craftswomen who have experience in the “fine” type of work. The picture will be smaller, the crosses will fit more tightly. Can be sewn in two folds.

For creating artistic miniatures, a canvas with count No. 18 is ideal. For such work, you will need additional assistants in the form of a magnifying glass and light. Usually one thread is used, but if you want to create dense, rigid work, double stitching is quite possible.

Hoops and machines

To ensure that the crosses are even, the canvas does not stretch in different directions, and the work itself is neat, they use hoops and machines that allow you to stretch the fabric evenly and fix it tightly.

The hoops can be:

• classic - 2 round hoops, nested one into the other, between which the free edges of the material are attached;
• modern plastic ones - the principle is the same as the classic ones, but the clamping density is controlled by a screw screwed in from the side;
• frame with clips - holes in the side frames allow you to adjust the hoop to a given canvas size;
• Q-snap frames are generally completely disassembled, thanks to individual bars and connecting corners, which allows you to combine the frame in various ways.

For all hoops, you can choose a stand or stand, which will speed up the work process, because the needlewoman will have both hands free.

The machines are made:

• floor;
• desktop;
• for working on your knees (sofa).

Since machines, as a rule, have constant dimensions, it is recommended to purchase a side stretcher for the canvas. It allows you to pull the base onto the machine frame evenly, which will eliminate distortion of the weaving and give proper elasticity to the surface of the base.

Cross stitch needles

For needlework, tapestry needles with a blunt tip and a wide eye are used.

The tip is specially blunted - the unsharpened end does not disturb the weave of the canvas and easily passes through the fibers without splitting them. The wide eye allows you to easily insert the required amount of folded thread.

Tapestry needles are the ideal solution for this type of needlework.

Needle-canvas matching

If sewing needles have a number range starting from one, then for tapestry needles the numbers start with No. 13 and end with No. 26.

The higher the needle number, the thinner and shorter it is.

It is better to determine the length of the needle at work. Typically, all tapestries are shorter than sewing ones by about 30%. In the work it will be clear what length is convenient for gripping with your fingers when pulling the thread through the fibers of the canvas. It is believed that tapestry needles No. 16-28 are optimal for work.

The needle number is its cross-sectional diameter at the eye itself. This cross-section, according to international standards, is always the same for all manufacturers, but the length of the body may vary.

To use wool, you will need a tapestry with an impressive eyelet and much longer than usual.

A table that shows the correspondence between the type of canvas - its density - the number of threads threaded - the needle number will help you choose the right needle.

Canvas type and density	Number of threads to be threaded	Tapestry needle no.
6	two	19
8	two or three	20-22
11	three	22-24
14	two	22-24-26
18	one or two	26
20	one or two	24-26
22	one	26-28
Evenweave 25-28	two	26
Lugana 25-28	two	26

It is clear that the stem count (ST) refers to Aida and Hardanger.

Special threads

To create cross-stitch or satin stitch paintings, special cotton threads - floss - are used. The color range of floss is more than 500, and each skein (8 m) or skein (6 pcs) of these 500 has its own color number.

For convenience in choosing a shade, you should have a floss color chart on hand.

In addition to cotton floss, this type of work uses wool with acrylic, synthetics, and satin. Each species has its own color card.

For their quality, floss and other embroidery threads are rightfully in demand from Madeira, DMC, PNK Kirov, and Gamma.

To work with woolen threads, select a material with a wide cage pitch - when pulling the woolen thread, it frays (wears out) and can break at the most inopportune moment. But items embroidered with this thread are voluminous, soft and homely.

If for floss the length is 50 cm, then the length of woolen floss is no longer than 40.

You can make your own palette card, where not only the color numbers will be indicated, but you can also see the color of the future painting.

Types of needlework

To begin with, it is worth mastering the 3 main types of cross - half-cross, regular and double. Double is often called “Bulgarian” and these 2 types are the basis for all other types of applying a pattern to fabric using a needle, thread and cross.

The first lower diagonal stitch is called a “half-cross”; it is also used to perform individual sections of embroidery.

Performance technique

The technique is very simple, even a child can handle it, you just need to carefully perform a row of lower stitches from left to right (as we read), and then apply the second row of upper stitches in the opposite direction - from right to left.

This is a Danish technique.

The English stitch technique is considered traditional, in which each cross is made separately and completely, and only after that moves on to the next one.

To quickly fill the entire field with a single color required by the embroidery pattern, it is good to use the Danish method, “throwing” the bottom row of crosses diagonally from top to bottom and then going up, covering the top stitches.

The English technique is good for drawing small islands when used a large number of colors.

In both cases, the stitches must be laid evenly, carefully, observing the sizes and intervals, so that the work turns out beautiful.

Types of crosses

When you have mastered regular and Bulgarian crosses, you can try your hand at other types of crosses:

1. Elongated - filled vertically by 2-3 cells of the canvas.
2. Extended with stitching - the same, but with a small stitch in the center.
3. Slavic - an oblique elongated cross.
4. Straight – one vertical + one horizontal.
5. An asterisk is a regular cross with the overlapping of 4 diagonal stitches of greater or lesser length.
6. Leviathan – complicated by additional vertical and horizontal crossings.
7. Italian embroidery is a Bulgarian cross stitch, whose corners are connected by stitches.
8. Backstitch (Back needle) is a design stitch in which the contours of the design are clearly distinguished, similar to the stitch of a sewing machine.

In fact, there are many more types of using cross stitch in embroidery, there are its successful combinations and combinations with other techniques and types of embroidery (sewn stitch, beads, gold thread, etc.), but in order to create your own masterpiece, these are quite enough .

Simple ornaments

Simple ornaments are those that use simple Bulgarian and ordinary crosses.

Most often, their color palette is not rich - 2-3, less often - 4-5 colors. The embroidery pattern is easy to calculate by cells; moreover, the main pattern of the ornament tends to repeat itself.

To get the hang of making a beautiful cross, there is no better step-by-step scheme for beginners than making ornaments.

Stores often sell patterns of ornaments and designs - thin paper on which the desired design is applied in colored or black and white strokes. The pattern can be easily pinned to the material and created using printed crosses.

To transfer the pattern of the ornament, use a canvas with a pattern when the pattern has already been printed, and all that remains is to sew in the desired cross of the desired color. This process will be called the “printed cross technique.”

If you don’t like the monotony of ornaments, you can choose a thematic picture consisting of 3-6 colors.

Nowadays it’s not difficult to find the desired option - on the Internet and in sewing stores there are a lot of not only accessories for embroidery, but also ready-made sets. The kit includes a border, matching needles, floss in the specified colors, a diagram and detailed instructions on working with embroidery.

You shouldn’t immediately grab onto a huge picture with many color shades, although its scheme may seem simple and not labor-intensive. If you are disappointed with your first experience, you may deprive yourself of the pleasure of embroidery forever.

How to start and how to finish work

How to correctly make the first stitch with the first knot so that from the inside the work does not look like a terry towel - there are 2 ways:

1. Fastening the thread with a loop.
2. Secure the end of the thread with crosses.

However, finished embroidery is not the final result. “Delicious candy has a decent wrapper!” - people say. So the newly-minted masterpiece of your work will need a frame, but first the finished embroidery must be carefully washed in warm water without adding caustic chemicals - soap is enough. When washing, do not rub, twist or wring the fabric, screwing it into a bundle. Squeeze between your palms several times and hang flat to dry.

Iron with a warm iron, without pressing the sole to the fabric, and only from the inside out.

Now the embroidery is ready to be placed in a frame or passe-partout

Now your embroidery is finished.

Can your fully decorated embroidery be called an original work? Unfortunately no.

When you develop the drawing yourself, breaking it into zones and cells, draw up a diagram, transfer it to the canvas and do embroidery on it, only then will your work receive the status of an author's work.

Although today every cross stitch website necessarily has a couple of tips, the purpose of which is to make the work easier for beginning embroiderers, I would like to add these:

When embroidering, you have to constantly push the needle through the fabric, which hurts your fingertips. Get used to the thimble! After a short time, you will no longer notice it, and your fingertips will remain intact.

You should not prick the needle with which you are working into the canvas. Firstly, it spoils the base, and secondly, it can easily get lost and harm your household. Attach a small magnet to the frame or hoop - this will prevent the needle from getting lost.

If it is not possible to correlate the canvas count and needle number by eye, pierce the canvas with the selected needle. If it passes through the canvas freely without leaving visible damage (holes) behind, this is what you need.

The needles should be able to "rest". Knowledgeable needlewomen assure that your favorite needle will definitely break at the most necessary moment, if you do not replace it from time to time with exactly the same one. Have a few needles of the number you need in stock.

If you purchased floss from a brand unknown to you, check the threads for color fastness. Wrap the skein in a white piece of fabric, pour boiling water over it and then iron it. If colored stains appear on white fabric, the thread is fading, be careful with it, or better yet, don’t use it at all.

Before using a new needle, examine its eye under a magnifying glass. If you find even one small notch, throw away the needle. It is not suitable for embroidery - it spoils the integrity of the thread.

In sets where there is a distinctive sign - glasses, Stramin canvas is used. This means that the embroidery itself should be done with a full skein, and not in 2-3 threads.

Some people perceive cross stitch as an art, others as a hobby, and for others it is a way to relieve stress. Before you begin, you should prepare the necessary equipment. It includes: a hoop, fabric, needle, thread, diagram and frame for decorating the work. You may also need a felt-tip pen to mark the fabric. First of all, we will consider not how to cross-stitch correctly, but how to choose equipment. After all, this work should bring pleasure. But only working with high-quality tools will bring pleasure from the embroidery process.

Hoop

The first thing you need to know is that the hoop squeezes the fabric. Therefore, you need to try to rearrange them as little as possible. Each needlewoman should have not just one, but several options. Small diameter hoops are suitable for embroidering small paintings. And the big one is for working on embroidered shirts or towels. You can see wooden and plastic hoops. Which one you use is a matter of personal preference.

Textile

You need to cross stitch on a special fabric called canvas. When choosing fabric, you need to take into account the nature of the work you will perform. If it is a towel, then the fabric must be appropriate. For paintings, canvas is taken of a completely different quality. The fabric used for embroidering rushnyks has an implicit mesh. Thanks to this, from a distance it is difficult to distinguish it from ordinary flax. Working with her is quite difficult. Therefore, for the first work it is better to take a painting. The canvas intended for embroidering pictures has a clear grid. This makes the job much easier. Currently, manufacturers offer canvas on which markings are made. This helps, firstly, to position the embroidery in the middle. And secondly, you can quickly find the place where you last finished working. If there is no such marking, then it is advisable to make it yourself. A special marker or a simple pencil can handle this task. On store shelves you can see canvas of different sizes. They indicate the density of the weave. The finer the mesh formed by the fibers, the more difficult it is to embroider. But the works done on such a canvas look like they were painted.

Needle

Cross stitching requires a special needle, which is somewhat different from its counterpart used for sewing. Its purpose is not to pierce the fabric, but to push the fibers apart. Therefore, the edge of the embroidery needle is not sharp, but rounded. Another feature of these needles is their long eye. This is no coincidence. Often it is necessary to embroider with several layers of thread. And it is very difficult to thread such a thread into a small ear. The final difference between embroidery needles and those used in sewing is their shorter length. Like the canvas, the needles differ from each other in size.

Threads

The type of finished work depends on the quality of the threads. If the thread is of high quality, then it lies softly, has shine and does not fade during washing. Some of the best on the market are DMC. These are American made threads. They have a silky texture and shine. This makes the finished work look elegant and rich.

Scheme

The scheme should, first of all, be convenient. There are two extremes to avoid: a scheme that is too large or an unreasonably small one. In the first case, you will need a lot of free space. After all, the circuit must be constantly unfolded during operation. In the second case, you will need to constantly strain your eyes to see the symbols. There are black and white and color schemes. For beginners, it is better to use color schemes.

Frame

The frame is the final touch in the design of the finished work. It should either be contrasting or match the color scheme of the embroidery. Embroidered pictures on passports look very nice. It is advisable to take the picture under glass. It is better to opt for the anti-glare option.

Beginning of work

How to cross stitch correctly? Each needlewoman has her own answer to this question. However, there are unwritten rules for cross stitching. Let's talk about them.

Once the equipment has been selected, you can begin to work. Remember, embroidery does not like to be rushed. We advise inexperienced girls to buy a set. It includes canvas of the required size, pattern and threads. The diagram contains some tips that will answer the question of how to cross stitch. You need to familiarize yourself with them. It will also indicate how many threads are used for embroidery. Their number can vary from 1 to 4. It depends on the size of the canvas.

After the pattern has been studied, you need to carefully lay out the threads. In some sets, the threads are arranged in special organizers. Their appearance may differ slightly. If the set you purchased does not have such an organizer, then you can make it yourself. To do this, take a cardboard and make round holes in it. Thread threads of different colors into each hole. The organizer is ready.

Now we take the canvas and process the fabric with a stitch by hand or on sewing machine. You can use clear nail polish, glue or masking tape for processing. It all depends on your imagination! If this is not done, the fabric will fray during operation.

An algorithm that will tell you how to cross stitch correctly:

• determine the middle of the outline;
• if there are no markings on the canvas, then we make it with red thread, pencil or marker;
• we put the work in a hoop;
• make the first stitch.

The fabric in the hoop should be well and, most importantly, evenly stretched. If the canvas is loosely stretched, then the crosses may turn out to be different sizes, which will ruin appearance finished work.

Reading the diagram

The ability to work with a diagram is the key to success. As mentioned earlier, there are 2 types of schemes: black and white and color. Let's consider each of them separately.

1. Colored

How to learn to cross stitch using a color pattern? It is a drawing divided into small squares. Each square corresponds to one cross. They may additionally contain special characters. Each symbol corresponds to a specific color. You will find their designation in the “symbols” section. Such schemes are very convenient. However, they can only be used if the number of colors used in the embroidery process is not very large. It will make working with a color scheme somewhat easier if you have symbols that will accurately indicate the color or shade of the thread being used.

The disadvantages of working with such schemes include a fairly large load on the eyes.

2. Black and white scheme

How to cross stitch in black and white? Having opened such a diagram, you will see a sheet of paper drawn into squares, each of which contains a symbol. This symbol indicates the color of the thread being used. If the painting depicts a sunset or a storm, it is unlikely that you will be able to work with a color scheme. Indeed, in this case, many shades of the same color are used, which are difficult to distinguish from each other with the naked eye. A black and white scheme is ideal. And the load on vision when working with such a scheme is much lower than with its color analogue.

Let's start work

Each needlewoman who already knows how to cross-stitch correctly will answer the question of where to start the work in her own way. There are 3 options in total: start from the center, from the bottom or top corner. From the first cross you need to gradually fill the entire outline. By starting work in the center, you are guaranteed to get a symmetrical picture. However, from the center you will need to embroider in different sides, which is not very convenient. When embroidering from a corner, you need to know that its choice depends on the direction of embroidery. You need to choose the right corner if you perform the first stitch from right to left. Otherwise, you need to select the left corner. Be sure to calculate where the center should be. To make the work look elegant, the crosses should “look” in one direction.

Cross stitch rules for beginners:

• the needle size must correspond to the size of the canvas;
• the direction of embroidery should be the same;
• Before starting work, you need to determine the center of the fabric.

If we talk about embroidering pictures, then craftswomen who already know how to properly cross-stitch pictures will first of all carefully calculate what size fabric they need to take. Be sure to take into account that it will take 5 centimeters to insert the finished work into the frame.

Most common mistakes

Sometimes needlewomen embroider a couple of crosses in the wrong color or tone. If this error is invisible, then it does not need to be corrected. Otherwise, you need to flog those crosses that were embroidered incorrectly. But errors such as different directions of cross-stitching or displacement when embroidering symmetrical patterns will spoil the appearance of the work.

There are also errors that are very difficult to correct. It happens that the craftswoman makes too much indentation on one edge and as a result there is not enough canvas on the other. Another mistake that is very difficult to correct is tissue damage. If low-quality threads were used for embroidery, they may fade during washing. There is no way to fix this error.

Each craftswoman works at her own pace. The main thing that affects the speed of work completion is the number of mistakes made. The embroidery process requires a scrupulous attitude. If all the preparatory work is done correctly, then you will be able to avoid most of the most common mistakes.

But you can master one of the most spectacular techniques - cross stitch - in just a couple of evenings. It is considered the simplest and most accessible, but at the same time it cannot be denied expressiveness and originality.

Touching “grandmother’s” napkins and tablecloths with embroidered flowers and birds are a thing of the distant past. Today, on the wave of fashion for exclusive handmade work, this technique is considered leading in the creation of unique items for interior decoration. And of course, high fashion has not ignored it, decorating clothes and accessories using this technique is a fresh and relevant trend in recent seasons.

Learning to work in it and create your own masterpiece is really not difficult - you just need to master a few simple techniques.

Fashionable cross stitch in the photo:

Cross stitch technique for beginners

Like any fine needlework, this technique requires almost jewelry precision and careful preparation. You don’t need any complex or expensive tools or materials: ordinary hoops, canvas, needles and threads are the simplest set for needlework.

The technique of doing cross stitch is often called “counting” because while working you have to accurately count the number of stitches in rows and color blocks. Therefore, the first thing you should take care of is an easy-to-work canvas or base that will facilitate the counting process.

It is better to use, especially at first, a canvas with a large weave, on which the “squares” formed by the interlacing of threads are clearly visible. This canvas is usually made of cotton or linen; a more “readable” structure is provided by synthetic materials, in particular vinyl, which is what professionals advise beginners to use. Its only drawback can be considered only that the structure of the canvas will be clearly visible if the background is not completely “sewn up”. This effect, by the way, can be used as a stylistic solution for the work as a whole.

Unlike most handicraft techniques, even large cross-stitch works can be embroidered in fragments. This means that it is not at all necessary to acquire special hoops. Any that will allow you to tightly stretch a base measuring 20-30 square meters will do. centimeters. Experienced craftswomen advise choosing wooden hoops - they are not only convenient, but also pleasant to work with.

Needles also do not require much choice. To work with large weave canvas, medium-thick needles with a blunt tip are suitable. The denser the canvas, the thinner the needle should be. The only thing worth considering is the size and shape of the eye of the needle; it should easily pass the thread and not deform the canvas.

A variety of threads are used in cross stitch, but cotton and silk floss, as well as thin twisted wool yarn, are considered traditional. Such threads “lay” gently into the stitches, create an even, smooth texture and look great in the finished work. In addition, you will not have problems choosing even the rarest shades and color combinations - the choice of today's offers is simply limitless.

Cross stitch: how to secure the thread

As in any fine needlework, in this technique the pinnacle of skill is considered not only the magnificent work itself, but also the impeccably neat underside. On the “clean”, as it is commonly called, the wrong side should not have any flaws: long stitches and ties that arise during the transition from one piece of work to another.

But in an ideal “clean” job there are no… not even knots on the wrong side. The fact is that when cross stitching, the thread is secured in a special way. To do this, a piece of thread is folded in half in the middle and the resulting “loop” is threaded into the eye of the needle.

After which, having determined the place to start work, the needle is inserted into the lower left corner of the “square” of the canvas. The same “loop” should remain on the front side. Having retreated literally a millimeter, the needle is brought back to the front side and the knot is tightened. Return the needle to the wrong side, and lightly pulling the thread, bring the knot there. The result is a miniature, durable knot, almost invisible from either the front or back side of the work.

Another technique that is worth mastering when taking your first steps is attaching a new thread. When moving from color to color, and this is especially important in multi-color compositions, a new thread must be carefully introduced into the design. To do this, you need to pull a new thread along the wrong side under several stitches exactly to the place where you will start embroidering with it. In this place it is necessary to make a neat stitch “back the needle”. That's it, the new thread is securely fastened and you can continue working.

In the same way, using the “back needle” stitch in cross stitch, the thread is secured at the end of the work. The tail of the working thread, about 5 centimeters long, is brought out to the wrong side, passed through several nearby stitches and secured with a “back needle” stitch.

Simple cross stitch technique for beginners

The main secret of beautiful and effective embroidery is even stitches of the same size. So that they turn out like this without special effort, you need to take as a basis a canvas with a large, clear weave of threads, which literally divides it into “cells” along which it is easy to make even stitches.

The needle with the thread attached to the wrong side is brought into the lower left corner of the canvas “cell” and brought out to the wrong side in the upper right corner - strictly diagonally. And then they make a “mirror” stitch: from right to left and get a perfectly even cross. Even for beginners, the cross stitch technique is simple and accessible.

There are two ways to lay out stitches on canvas: English and Danish. English or traditional way- the first cross is embroidered separately and in its entirety, like each subsequent one, laid out in turn they form a row, and then a colored block. And according to the Danish method, in each row the bottom stitches are laid out first - from left to right, and then they are “closed” with the top stitches, passing in the opposite direction.

The choice of method is a matter of personal preference, and in both cases the front side of the work turns out smooth and uniform, and the back side is neat. But it’s worth trying both methods and choosing the one that is most convenient for you. Often, especially in large works, they are combined, since it is more convenient for English to lay out vertical rows, and for Danish – horizontal ones.

For your first jobs you should choose simple circuits, which involve no more than three or four colors. Choose a simple, proportional pattern with medium-sized details. This makes it easier to try out the nuances of the technique and develop your own working style.

Cotton floss is ideal for first projects. Experienced needlewomen recommend starting to master cross stitch in two threads.

How to learn cross stitch from video

Patterns and programs for cross stitch:

From the first stitches to complex plots, in fact, there are only a few steps, this technique is so simple and fascinating. Especially if you use well-designed patterns that take into account all the features of cross stitch. It’s not for nothing that this embroidery technique is called counting – it’s better to entrust the preliminary careful calculation of patterns to professionals and use ready-made patterns. Fortunately, today there are offers for every taste - from still lifes and landscapes and genre scenes to reproductions of famous paintings.

All ready-made schemes, regardless of their complexity, are built on the same principle. Each square of the diagram corresponds to the future cross on the canvas, and the symbol or number indicated in it corresponds to the color of the thread. All you have to do is choose the right shades. You can, especially at first, use ready-made sets that take into account everything - from the size of the canvas needed for work to the combination of colors and shades.

But one of the most interesting solutions that allows you to feel like a real designer is cross stitch programs. They allow you to convert any image into a well-developed diagram, it can be a photograph you took yourself or an image taken from the Internet. The programs provide unlimited scope for choosing a plot and implementing your own creative ideas, especially since they are designed for the average user, are not complicated and do not require special knowledge in design.

Today there are many such programs, but they all work on the same principle: you load an image into the program, and it calculates your future embroidery down to the smallest detail. Selection of threads, their quantity, color combinations and canvas size, you can even get a finished image of your work. But most importantly, the program will provide you with a diagram that is impeccable in its accuracy - all you have to do is pick up a needle. But it is worth considering that the more complex the plot of the planned work, the higher the level of your skill should be.

Cross stitch: technique

Before you start, check that you have everything you need at hand. Most often, it happens that during the work process there may not be threads of any shade that is important for the overall color scheme. This usually comes to light at the most inopportune moment. Therefore, it is worth using the rule that experienced embroiderers adhere to: there is never too much thread. Collect your own palette, you will definitely need it.

If you have already decided on the scheme, then you can start working directly. First of all, you need to pull the canvas tightly and tightly onto the hoop - this way you will better see its natural markings. The hoop does not have to be large; the technique allows you to embroider in fragments, dragging the canvas as you work. It is enough for them to “hold” a fragment measuring 20-30 square meters. centimeters - this is the most convenient option for work.

Where to begin? First of all, by determining the center of the composition or drawing, you need to start working from there. The best way maintain proportions and dimensions - mark diagonals on the canvas and adhere to them as the main directions. It is best to fill the canvas using the “snowflake” principle, moving evenly from the center to the edges.

If you have chosen a complex scheme, start with the largest area of ​​the same color. It is also better to start with darker blocks of color - this way you will set the desired outline, which is easier to complement with light shades and colors. And be sure to cross out already embroidered areas from the pattern so as not to mistakenly return to them again!

The technique of cross stitch does not depend on the size of the work or the complexity of the plot. It’s up to you to choose whether to work using the English or Danish method. But in large works it is worth taking into account color transitions, avoiding long ties on the wrong side of the work. It is best to stitch the design not with individual crosses, but with solid color “blocks”. Trying to finish them so that the last stitch is as close to the first as possible.

It is also important to monitor the direction of the stitches. If you started making the bottom stitches from left to right, and the top stitches from right to left, absolutely the entire pattern should be done in this manner. This way you will get an almost perfect front side.

Stitches that “look” in the other direction are used to achieve certain visual effects, and this must be reflected in the pattern.

Basics of cross stitch technique on video:

Cross stitch: how many threads - 2 or 1?

This question inevitably arises before the start of any, especially large, work. The correct answer to this can only be given by the scheme you have chosen and personal preferences. Some people like translucent airy textures, others prefer voluminous and dense ones - this effect is achieved by threads in several folds. More often they are used to work on large blocks of color, a color that contrasts with the canvas, or to give the additional effect of volume that a drawing requires.

For example, in landscapes. A tree crown embroidered with a cross in three threads will have an effect similar to 3D, especially against the background of the rest of the pattern. And the impression of a complex spatial composition will be enhanced by clouds embroidered with a cross in one thread - the outline will shine through them, and they will look more transparent and airy than the main background. You can create three-dimensional compositions in this way in any work; sometimes it is “integrated” into the design itself, and in some cases such a solution can be added on your own. Imagination and creativity in this technique work real miracles.

But when choosing the number of threads, it is worth taking into account the size of the canvas sections; the larger its “cells”, the thicker and more voluminous the thread can be used for work. Most often, cross stitch is done in 2 threads, but when starting a large piece of work, such as creating a painting or wall panel, it is better to test your choice on a sample. A small square measuring 5x5 centimeters will give you a complete idea of ​​what the texture of the finished work will look like.

Floss, as you know, is produced in skeins of different sizes; each manufacturer has its own. But each skein of floss consists of six thin threads, which must be properly separated before starting work - if you don’t know how to do this correctly and try to separate the threads in a common skein, you can hopelessly ruin the entire skein.

First you need to carefully unwind the skein and cut the required length from the total skein - 60-70 centimeters. This is the most convenient length for work - the thread will not get tangled, and you will not have to bend and unbend your hand when working.

Then, slightly fluffing the tip of the skein, you need to carefully pull out one thread, after which the skein is straightened again. Pull out the threads only one at a time!

In order to save time and make the process of cross stitch, for example, with 3 threads easier and more enjoyable, the threads should be prepared in advance. You can thread them into needles or use a special organizer.

Hello! Let's get acquainted first. My name is Marina. I made my first cross about forty years ago. I have been embroidering pictures for about ten years. It all started with a gift (a kit for embroidering a picture), which my friends from Europe brought me. It was the longest job of my life. I embroidered it for myself, but it turned out that they bought it from me (I couldn’t resist the price), so I got orders. At first I had to buy sets in Europe, but now it has become easier - I have already sewn five works from Peony, and the quality criterion for me is my customers.

Since I embroider to order, time is of the utmost importance to me, so I had to abandon traditional methods of securing threads, which take a lot of time and, as a result, increase sewing time. This led to an increase in thread consumption, and a very significant one, but here you have to choose (everyone has their own priorities), and you don’t have to rush to embroider for yourself.

First, I will answer frequently asked questions:
“Is it difficult to embroider these patterns?” My answer (it is clear that it is subjective): long - yes, difficult - no. It’s very strange to me how difficult something that can be done with the simplest stitches in the world can be. And those who embroider always have a lot of patience. Perhaps someone, like me, may experience a condition from this work that I call “psychological fatigue.” Three days break, or improve another job and this condition goes away.

“Which scheme should I choose? More or less? In my experience, there is no difference in stitching. The only difference is time.

And one last digression. During sewing, for example, the following situation happens (I sew work by color): the thread has run out, the last cross remains, for which you need to take a new thread, sometimes I take it, and sometimes I sew it with the shade that is nearby. Such liberties will not be noticeable when decorating the background, in landscapes and still lifes, but don’t get too carried away. Where can you not do such things? Then, when you embroider faces, this is where you can get very unpleasant surprises.

The most important rule: You need to embroider with maximum comfort.

I always embroider from top to bottom and left to right. One Row is ten squares of the diagram in height.

What we are preparing - a frame, a machine for the frame, scissors for cutting threads, two tablets (more on them a little later), many, many needles, a simple pencil (an alternative is a blue felt-tip pen for fabric, which is washed off cold water), an ordinary bright felt-tip pen. About good lighting, I think it’s not necessary to write and it’s clear.

A little about needles. Expensive English needles did not stand the test; they were all constantly quickly worn out in the eye area. Ultimately, I stopped buying them and settled on cheap gamut embroidery needles. They were a very pleasant surprise, there were several defective pieces, and the rest have already been in the works for three years and even the gilding has not been worn off, only faded. Needle size 24 or 26. I use both mixed.

As a side note, photographs do not show the actual picture. To see all the beauty of embroidery you need to look at it “live”.

Begin.

1. I make a copy of the diagram. You never know, the work is long. I've never needed it. But just in case.

2. I connect the circuit. At first I glue only the first very top sheets. It turns out to be a long strip. The remaining sheets will be used only when the first strip is removed. When there is only one row left to sew from the first strip (I remind you that a row for me is ten squares high), I glue the next sheets together and get a second strip, which I connect to the first, and I cut off everything sewn on the first strip and throw it away, etc. d.

Then I take a regular felt-tip pen and draw a diagram (ladder in the photo). Each row will be sewn with such teeth, otherwise the border between the rows will be noticeable.

3. I attach the canvas or uniform to the frame. I always process the uniform with a zigzag, the canvas does not fray. Before attaching the canvas or uniform to the frame, at the top (always) and bottom (not always), I extend it with regular fabric. I do this for the sole purpose: so that the beginning and end of the embroidery are in the “comfortable embroidery zone” - the hands should not stretch anywhere, but lie freely on the frame.

I secure the canvas or uniform only in the same way as in the photo. The front side of the work is twisted inward (somehow, historically, it happened like this for me), but the bottom is fixed exactly this way (inward) so that your hands do not rub the front side of the fabric (this has already been done on purpose), let the back side rub

4. I line the fabric. You can use a special blue fabric marker that washes off with cold water. I stopped using it after I forgot to wash it off (unpleasant memories remained), and immediately immersed it in warm water (the work was ruined - albeit small and very simple, but spoiled), since then I have only used a simple, but very soft pencil (I still erase the work after finishing). I only line the first four rows; as soon as the first row is sewn off, I draw another one, etc. Look at the photo above.

5. Preparation of tablets. The tablets are made from improvised materials into which a needle can be easily inserted. They will store needles and threads that are not currently involved in the work. I only turn to the organizer when I need a new thread.

In Excel I type symbols and thread numbers, just like on the organizer. I place everything on an A4 sheet. I print out several sheets and attach one sheet to the tablet with regular tape.

I always use two tablets. Why two identical tablets? Over time, the first tablet will be covered with needles and tattered. I quickly pick up and transfer the needles from the old tablet to the new one. I remove the worn sheet from the old one and attach a new one. And again I have one working tablet with needles, the other is clean.

And yet, an empty tablet helps you find the desired symbol faster (sometimes suddenly symbols get lost on a working tablet - the threads are covered). This is what the tablets look like during operation. (Note from Golden Peony - if you are interested in the option with a tablet or you come up with something else for yourself, and you need to print symbols, then how to place a font with symbols on your computer, read at the end of the page. Not everyone has this font in system font folder.)

I fold the long strip of the diagram along the width of the work. I attach it to canvas or uniform paper with ordinary office clips.

Now everything is ready, you can start embroidering.

I take a needle and thread that corresponds to the symbol that I will sew and begin.

I introduce the thread into the work from the front side below 15 cells from the row, leaving a tail of approximately 0.5 cm (I do not fasten the thread in any way, it will fix itself during the work). In the same way I remove the thread from work. Now you probably understand why my thread consumption is very high, but time is important to me.

I embroider the symbol until it is in the field of view of the row that is sewn, as soon as this symbol is finished, I remove the thread from the work and insert the needle into the tablet. Then I embroider the next character, etc. Work occurs only within a row.

And I cut it, leaving a tail of at least 0.5 cm, so that it would be more convenient to trim them later. When the first row is sewn, the second row begins to be sewn. After sewing the second row, the tails of the threads of the first row are cut off with scissors. After sewing the third row, the tails of the threads of the second row are cut off, etc. Thus, I reach the last row, it takes the longest, and here I have to fasten the thread. I use all the methods of securing the thread that I know, except for the method of securing the thread on the wrong side (by the way, very good way

and it’s fast enough to pull the thread from the wrong side under the stitches, but I don’t turn the frame over while working, so I don’t use it).

6. When the work is sewn, I remove it from the frame, rip off the fabric and wash the embroidery. I just soak it for about 20 minutes, pat it a little (I don’t wrinkle or twist it). Now you need to rinse until the water runs clear (I also don’t twist anything). After most of the water has drained from the sewn work, I wrap it in a towel to remove any remaining water. And I let it dry a little.

7. As soon as the embroidery has dried (it should be slightly damp), I begin to iron it. I place the work face down on a super soft and fluffy terry towel and begin to iron it, very, very carefully. Not a single stitch should wrinkle. I can add that this process is the most unpleasant for me and seems endless.

8. That's it. What remains is the framing workshop. I insert it into the frame under the glass myself. If you trust a framing shop, they can also insert it into the frame.

I hope everything I wrote was useful and understandable. Don’t judge me harshly, this is the first time I’ve written something like this, especially for public reading. If something is not clear, ask questions and I will try to answer them.

Thank you very much for your attention.

P.S. I showed sewing using the example of a tapestry (half-cross). If you embroider with a full cross, the principle is the same. The difference: when embroidering with a tapestry stitch, the movement in the row goes up, then down, up again and down again, etc. When cross-stitching: I always start from the lowest symbol in the row and go up, but I sew not the whole cross, but a half-cross, then I go back down, overlapping the first half-cross with the second - the first column is sewn. In the second column, in the same way, I start from the lowest symbol, sew a half-cross up and go back down, overlapping the first half-crosses. I hope it's clear.

How to place a font with symbols on your computer.

1. Download two font files to your computer.

2. Go to local drive C. Then to the Windows folder. Find the Fonts folder. And paste the downloaded files into it. If the Windows folder is hidden, remove this restriction on your computer.

3. Reboot your computer.