Heating circuit diagram for a private house. Options for heating distribution in a private house. Forced circulation wiring

The heating system must be economical and efficient. It should be designed and installed correctly. Otherwise, in winter you will have to suffer from the cold not only outside, but also inside your home. There are several ways to heat a private house with your own hands. The classic version of its design is an electric or gas boiler plus one-pipe or two-pipe wiring. But other combinations are also possible. In order to correctly choose the most suitable scheme, you should thoroughly understand all their features.

Single-pipe schemes

The easiest way to calculate and assemble a heating system is with a single-pipe piping scheme for the coolant. The heated water in it sequentially passes from the boiler through all the radiators in the house, starting with the first and ending with the last in the chain. At the same time, each subsequent radiator receives less and less heat.

There are four main advantages of such a heating installation in a private house:

Ease of implementation;

Small cubic capacity of coolant;

Hydraulic stability of the system;

Low consumption of materials.

Installing a pipeline according to this scheme and connecting it to the boiler with your own hands, even if you have minimal skills, can be completed in two to three days. Plus, the costs of creating a water heating system in a house for single-pipe wiring are minimal compared to other options.

Few fittings, fittings and pipes are required here. The savings on materials are significant. And it doesn’t matter whether laminated timber or brick is chosen for the construction of the cottage. If the home is well insulated, then even a simple one-pipe system for heating it will be more than enough.

Among the weak points of this heating scheme are:

Inability to accurately regulate the heat supply in each room;

Limitation on the total length of the pipeline throughout the house (no more than 30 m);

Small amount of thermal energy in the battery furthest from the boiler;

Vulnerability to defrosting and gusts.

To mitigate the shortcomings, a circulation pump has to be built into a single-pipe system. But these are additional costs and potential equipment breakdowns. Plus, if there are any problems on any section of the pipe, heating of the entire cottage stops.

Single-pipe horizontal

If a private house small and one-story, then a single-pipe heating system is best done in a horizontal design. To do this, a ring of one pipe is laid in the rooms around the perimeter of the cottage, which is connected to the inlet and outlet of the boiler. Radiators cut into the pipeline under the windows.

Single-pipe horizontal design - ideal for small spaces

The batteries are connected here using a bottom or cross connection. In the first case, heat losses will be at the level of 12–13%, and in the second they are reduced to 1–2%. It is the cross installation method that should be preferred. Moreover, the coolant supply to the radiator should be done from above, and the outlet from below. So the heat transfer from it will be maximum, and losses will be minimal.

Single-pipe vertical distribution

For a two-story cottage, a single-pipe vertical heating system is more suitable. In it, the pipe from the water heating equipment goes up to the attic or second floor, and from there it goes back down to the boiler room. In this case, the batteries are also connected in series one after the other, but with a side connection. The pipeline for the coolant is usually laid in the form of a single ring, first along the second and then along the first floor, in such a heating distribution in a low-rise building.

Single-pipe vertical design - saving on materials

But an example with vertical branches from a common horizontal pipe at the top is also possible. That is, first a circular circuit is made from the boiler up, along the second floor, down and along the first floor back to the water heater. And between the horizontal sections, vertical risers are laid with radiators connected to them.

The coldest battery in such a heating system for a private house will again be the last one in the chain - at the bottom of the boiler. In this case, there will be an excess of heat on the upper floor. It is necessary to somehow limit the volume of heat transfer at the top and increase it at the bottom. To do this, it is recommended to install bypass jumpers with control valves on the radiators.

Leningradka

Both schemes described above have one common disadvantage - the temperature of the water in the last radiator turns out to be very low, and it gives off very little heat to the room. To compensate for this cooling, it is recommended to improve the single-pipe horizontal heating option for a private house by installing bypasses at the bottom of the battery.

Leningradka - improved single-pipe system

This wiring was called “Leningradka”. In it, the radiator is connected from above to a pipeline running along the floor. Plus, taps are placed on the outlets to the batteries, which can be used to regulate the volume of incoming coolant. All this contributes to a more even distribution of energy across individual rooms in the house.

Two-pipe heating systems

In a two-pipe heating system, the batteries are no longer connected to one common line, but to two - supply and return. This way the heat distribution throughout the building occurs more evenly. The water reaches each heat exchanger at approximately the same temperature. It is not for nothing that such a scheme is usually used in high-rise buildings with big amount heated rooms. But it is also often installed in cottages, especially if they are large and have several floors.

The two-pipe heating system has the following advantages:

Possibility of precise adjustment of room temperature;

Uniformity of heat distribution in individual rooms;

High operational reliability;

It is permissible to repair one battery while continuing to operate the entire system.

The two-pipe heating scheme for private houses has only one serious drawback - price. Its high cost is often mentioned in comparison with its single-pipe analogue. However, pipes in this case require a smaller diameter. Their length doubles here. At the same time, due to the reduction in cross-section, the final estimate turns out to be not as inflated as it might seem at first glance.

By analyzing the types of foundations, we can immediately say unequivocally that a monolith will be more expensive than a strip foundation. When arranging heating for private houses, everything is not so simple and easy. When installing it, pipes of different diameters, various fittings and thermostats are used. The total cost of each variety must be calculated individually for the actual structure and for the specific parameters of the required temperature regime.

With bottom wiring

With the bottom scheme, both pipes are laid above or in the floor. And a pair of taps are connected to the batteries from below. This type of connection is often used to hide heating pipelines behind finishing. It's more of a design decision special advantages in terms of heat transfer, it does not provide.

Two-pipe with bottom wiring

On the contrary, the lower method of connecting radiators involves the highest heat loss. It is generally not recommended for use in heating systems with natural (gravity) circulation. If this wiring is chosen, you will have to take care of the availability of special equipment for pumping the coolant, and choose a battery with more power. A boiler without a circulation pump cannot supply heat throughout the house alone.

With top wiring

In the upper heating distribution, the connection of radiators to the pipes can be diagonal or lateral. This is not the most important thing here. Main hallmark This type of water heating requires the presence of an expansion tank.

Two-pipe with top wiring

The expansion tank is placed in the attic. The water heated in the boiler actually first enters this storage tank. The coolant flows into the supply pipe naturally from top to bottom. And then the water, after releasing heat in the radiator, is sent through the return line back to the heater.

Beam system

The collector (radiant) heating scheme is the most advanced and modern in terms of thermal efficiency. In it, each of the radiators is connected to a pair of pipes from two common collectors for the floor, which are themselves connected to the boiler equipment. Temperature control with this wiring is more flexible. Plus, it is permissible to connect not only batteries to the collectors, but also a “warm floor”.

Among the advantages of such a heating system for a private house, the following should be noted:

Convenient and flexible adjustment;

High efficiency of thermal energy distribution;

Possibility of replacing individual elements without turning off the heating as a whole.

In this case, the pipelines can be laid as desired. Often they are simply laid under the poured floor. The main disadvantage of the beam scheme is high price the system as a whole and the large length of pipes. Plus, it will be difficult to lay the latter in large quantities in an already finished cottage. Their installation should be planned in advance at the stage of designing a home.

Radial design - ideal heat distribution

This slate, if necessary, can be relatively easily replaced with another roofing material. The layout of the heating pipes is more complicated; changing it later is not so easy. Even the rigid dimensions of the ondulin sheet are not so scary; there are a lot of scraps, but this is only a slight increase in the roof estimate. With heating pipelines, especially for radial distribution, everything is much more complicated.

Natural and forced heating circulation

It doesn’t matter whether gas, wood, coal or electric heating is planned to be installed in a private house. In any case, there is a boiler (furnace or water heater) for heating the coolant, as well as pipes for its movement along the circuit. In this case, water in pipelines can flow naturally under the influence of gravity and convection or forcibly using a pump.

The first example is cheaper and quieter than the second. However, forced circulation can greatly improve the performance of the entire heating system. Often, heating a private home cannot be done without a booster pump. Because of large quantity radiators, pipe turns and fittings, the hydraulic resistance in the pipeline is too high. And this can only be compensated for by the operation of pumping equipment.

Which home heating system to choose

There are several types of heating systems. They differ in pipe layout, methods of connecting radiators and how the coolant moves through them. Competently choosing the most effective option is possible only if you have knowledge of heating engineering. It is necessary to make complex calculations and prepare a project. For a small cottage, a simple one-pipe scheme is quite suitable. In other cases, it is better to delegate the design to a professional. But the installation work can be done independently.

In words, drawing up and discussing a heating system is a simple matter. However, in order for it to function correctly, be effective and economical, each element and node must be planned and calculated in detail. Heating distribution from a boiler in a private house is laid not only with beauty and comfort in mind. It is important to consider the type of system, the characteristics of the materials that will be used, and adhere to general requirements.

Primary requirements

The main task is to connect the boiler and all radiators in the most effective way. It is important to take into account a number of requirements:

The routing should be laid along the route with the shortest length.
The hydraulic resistance of pipes, valves and fittings should be reduced whenever possible.
It is necessary to think through and arrange all functional units on the line with a minimum number of bends, tees and valves. This refers to the safety group, expansion tank, circulation pump, fittings for draining and filling the system, etc.
Pipes are selected based on the performance characteristics of the material and the heating system.
The diameter of the pipes is calculated to minimize pressure losses on the one hand and reduce the volume of the pipeline on the other.

Pipe diameter

Theoretically, calculating the optimal pipe diameter for a heating system in a house is quite difficult. The required pressure, static and dynamic pressure, pipeline resistance taking into account the laying route, the roughness of the inner surface of the pipes and many other factors are taken into account. additional parameters. In practice, you will still have to choose from a fairly limited list of pipe diameters from one material or another. The standard sizes and main characteristics of the pipes have long been standardized, as well as all the additional elements necessary to assemble the heating circuit from the boiler to the radiators.

The main idea is to provide:

the speed of movement of the coolant in the pipes is at the level of 0.4-0.6 m/s;
the resistance of the entire heating circuit is lower than the pressure created by the pump or gravity in a system with natural circulation;
minimum volume of coolant in the pipes. Not to be confused with the total volume, including the boiler and, if necessary, storage tank.

Reducing the resistance of pipes and circuits

With any wiring diagram or coolant circulation method, it is necessary to reduce the pipeline resistance and ensure optimal fluid movement through the pipes, avoiding both laminar movement and completely turbulent movement.

For systems with natural circulation:

Any turns and bends along the route are carried out taking into account the minimum permissible turning radius for the type of pipe used.
Transitions between pipes with different diameters, insertion of risers into the distribution manifold are carried out without narrowing the smaller diameter and, if possible, with a gradual expansion/constriction of the channel.
In front of shut-off, control valves, radiators or other equipment, a smooth section of pipe should be formed at least 5-6 pipe diameters in order to eliminate unnecessary turbulence and turbulence in the liquid flow.

For a system with forced circulation, the previous tips are not mandatory; it is important that the circuit resistance is less than the pressure generated by the pump. However, if all requirements are met, the load on the pump will decrease and its operating life will accordingly increase. Due to the forced pumping of the coolant, you can use metal-plastic pipes with a small cross-section, a lower two-pipe or one-pipe connection scheme, including packing the pipes into a screed or walls.

Wiring diagrams

In practice, a large number of possible connection types are used. You can single out four main ones, and on their basis you can choose either a ready-made solution or a combined one.

Single-pipe wiring with or without accelerating manifold. From the boiler the pipe goes to the first radiator. The radiators are connected in series, and from the last one in the heat exchanger circuit there is a return pipe to the cold inlet of the boiler. By way of wiring orientation:

For any switching method, a set of control equipment from the safety and diagnostics group must be selected. The composition of the equipment varies depending on the presence of a pump or the use of a gravity system.

For natural circulation everything is extremely simple:

You need a line from the boiler to the expansion tank, located as high as possible.
A pipe for connecting radiators is led from the expansion tank or from the manifold directly next to the tank. In the case of an accelerating manifold and a lower single-pipe distribution, the pipe descends with a gradual slope towards the first radiator.
Next, the wiring to the radiators is carried out according to the selected connection method, with a mandatory slope of at least 2-3 degrees.
From the last radiator there is a return line to the boiler with a connection to the lower cold inlet. On the return line, directly next to the boiler, a tee with a shut-off valve and a fitting for draining the coolant is inserted.

It is more important to correctly route the pipes. Connection points and fittings should not narrow the channel cross-section. The pipe turn or elbow is selected with a turning radius of at least 1.5 times the pipe diameter. If the pipe descends to the radiator from above or rises, then an elbow is formed first, and then the bypass and radiator are cut in.

For forced circulation, the composition of the equipment has been significantly expanded:

Expansion tank, membrane type. Installation is allowed at the hot and cold outlet of the boiler, the main thing is as close as possible to the heat exchanger or heat accumulator. For solid fuel (SF) boilers, due to the impossibility of accurately regulating the outlet water temperature, first a direct outlet with a length of at least a meter is installed with a steel pipe, and only after that the equipment is connected. The expansion tank for TT boilers is installed on the return, cold line.
Security group(air vent, safety valve, pressure gauge). The safety group is located at the hot outlet of the boiler. From the boiler safety group there must be a short section of pipe with the maximum permissible diameter and without any shut-off valves that can narrow the channel (ball valves are allowed). The safety group is installed at the top point of the circuit.
Coarse filter. A mandatory element, even taking into account the preparation of the coolant. Installed in front of the circulation pump on the return line.
Circulation pump. By default it is installed on the return line, where the coolant temperature is lower. If the system wiring is at least theoretically suitable for natural circulation, then the pump is connected in parallel to a common pipe with a bypass. Shut-off valves are installed on both sides of the pump and on the bypass. In other cases, the pump can be installed in direct flow into the return gap with shut-off valves on both sides.
Additional pressure gauges for diagnostics. To diagnose and check the performance of the heating, it is important to know the pressure on both boiler outlets, on both sides of the circulation pump and the coarse filter, in addition to the pressure gauge installed with the safety group. Depending on the equipment connection sequence, the points may overlap and you will ultimately need to install 2-3 pressure gauges using three-way valves or tees.
Three-way valve for bypass to the boiler.
Tee bend with shut-off valves for filling the system with coolant and draining.

Before choosing the entire list of equipment, you should find out what is already in the heating boiler itself; often wall-mounted gas or electric boilers have an expansion tank and a safety group at a minimum.

Regardless of the wiring method and coolant circulation option, it is advisable to provide a bypass for each radiator. This will avoid stopping the movement of fluid due to air locks and will make it possible to regulate the thermal power of each radiator individually during installation three way valve with thermostat.

All equipment should be located as close as possible to the boiler, with access for inspection and maintenance. An exception is the manifold wiring, in which part of the equipment remains near the boiler (general circulation pump, expansion tank, safety group), and part - at the point of installation of the manifold (shut-off and control valves, additional pumps for circuits, air vents, etc.)

Price for 1m2 of work

It is difficult to independently take into account all the nuances and correctly install the heating network around the house. It is much better to entrust this work to specialists who will offer the best option and a set of additional equipment. Based on experience, designers and installers are able to correctly place emphasis depending on the customer’s wishes: to provide heating with maximum efficiency and ease of use, or to strive to save money on work and installation.

The cost of the work includes separate installation of the boiler, connection of additional equipment, pipe routing and installation of radiators. Each item has its own price list, according to which the cost of all work on equipping the heating system in the house is calculated.

Type of work	units	Cost, rub.
Installation of a heating boiler with a power of up to 50 kW	PC.	12000-20000
Installation of a boiler with a power of over 50 kW	PC.	25000-50000
Security group installation	PC.	from 1500
Expansion tank	PC.	from 2000
Circulation pump	PC.	from 2000
Installation and connection of the comb (collector)	PC.	from 1500
Pipe routing D16-25	linear meters	60-85
Pipe routing D32-40	linear meters	75-90
Pipe routing D55-63	linear meters	90-120
Pipe routing D75-110	linear meters	100-150
Installation and connection of the radiator	PC.	2000-5000
Installing a thermostat	PC.	500
Pressure testing according to the requirements of the boiler equipment manufacturer		from 4500
Commissioning works		from 3500

Routing pipes from the boiler to the radiators can average 300-500 rubles per linear meter, taking into account laying, connection, passage and wall grooves. Prices are indicative for Moscow and the region.

When building your own home, proper organization of the heating system is one of the main processes. Not only comfortable living, but also the amount of expenses for its maintenance largely depends on how well it is designed. Therefore, carefully consider the selection of the appropriate heating device principle and all parts for completing the equipment to ensure its uninterrupted operation.

The principle of creating a heating project is no different from the arrangement of other engineering systems. Sequencing:

How to choose the right energy source?

In this regard, several options are most often used. When choosing the most practical and affordable, focus on the following criteria:

Popular heating system wiring solutions:

Basic elements of a water heating system

The entire heating circuit consists of several mandatory elements, the installation of which is carried out in a clearly defined sequence:

Which heating scheme should I choose?

There are two basic principles for the design of the heating system circuit:

Features of design and operation of a single-circuit system

The operating principle of such a heating device is serial connection all elements of the system into one closed circuit. Wherein hot water, which is supplied after heating from the boiler to the pipeline and radiators, passes along the entire line in one direction.

Given this structural feature of the system, its natural disadvantage is manifested in a gradual decrease in the heating level when supplied to each subsequent battery. Therefore, if you use it in a large room, the rooms at the end of the chain will be much slower and not warm up as well. Another disadvantage is the difficulty of carrying out repair work if necessary. In this case, it is impossible to restore a separate section; a complete shutdown of the entire system will certainly be required.

Important! Taking into account such features of the device, it is advisable to use single-circuit wiring only for small buildings - up to 100 m2. In this case, it will provide high-quality heating with reliable operation.

What are the differences between a two-pipe heating system?

The design principle of such a system differs as follows:

Advantages of a two-circuit system

This heating principle distinguishes several rather important points:

Important! Despite this list of undeniable advantages, keep in mind the main disadvantage of designing a two-pipe wiring - the increased complexity of planning the circuit and installing the entire system. To carry out these works, professional skills in designing, processing and connecting various building materials and equipment. Otherwise, the result will be not only insufficiently correct functioning of the system, but also the occurrence of emergency situations threatening the health and life of all residents of the house.

How to properly design a double-circuit heating system?

If you decide to give preference to this particular type, be sure to decide in advance on the type of line layout. In this regard, there are two ways:

What to pay attention to when designing?

When creating a heating wiring diagram, carefully consider the following points:

Conclusion

Carry out all work on the heating system with special care and attention. If you are not confident in your knowledge and skills, be sure to enlist the help of professionals at that stage that seems especially difficult or incomprehensible to you. Only this approach will allow you not to worry about the risk of problems occurring after all construction and finishing works, and will provide not only comfortable living in your own home, but also safety.

An effective heating system will make life comfortable in any home. Well, if the heating works very poorly, then the level of comfort will not be saved by any design delights. Therefore, now we will talk about diagrams and rules for installing elements of a system that heats a home.

What you need for assembly - 3 main parts

Any heating system consists of three basic components:

heat source - this role can be played by a boiler, stove, fireplace;
heat transfer line - usually this is the pipeline through which the coolant circulates;
heating element - in traditional systems this is a classic radiator that converts the energy of the coolant into thermal radiation.

Boiler room layout in the house

Of course, there are schemes that exclude the first and second elements of this chain. For example, the well-known stove heating, when the source is also a heating element, and the heat transfer line is absent in principle. Or convection heating, when the radiator is excluded from the chain, since the source heats the air itself in the house to the desired temperature. However, the oven scheme was considered obsolete at the beginning of the twentieth century, and the convection option is very difficult to implement with your own hands without special knowledge and specific skills. Therefore, most household systems are built on the basis of a hot water boiler and a water circuit (piping).

As a result, to build the system we will need one boiler, several radiators (usually their number is equal to the number of windows) and fittings for the pipeline with associated fittings. Moreover, in order to assemble the heating of a private house, you will have to connect all these components within one system with your own hands. But before that, it would be nice to understand the parameters of each element - from the boiler to pipes and radiators, in order to know what to buy for your home.

Which boiler to choose and how to calculate its power

Water heating draws energy from a special boiler, the combustion chamber of which is surrounded by a jacket filled with liquid coolant. At the same time, any product can burn in the firebox - from gas to peat. Therefore, before assembling the system, it is very important to choose not only the power, but also the type of heat source. And you will have to choose between three options:

Gas boiler - it processes main or bottled fuel into heat.
Solid fuel heater - it is powered by coal, firewood or fuel pellets (pellets, briquettes).
Electrical source - it converts electricity into heat.

The best option of all of the above is a gas heat generator running on main fuel. It is cheap to operate and operates continuously, since fuel is supplied automatically and in arbitrarily large volumes. Moreover, such equipment has virtually no disadvantages, except for the high fire hazard that is inherent in all boilers.

A good option for a heat generator that heats a private house without a gas pipeline is a solid fuel boiler. Especially models designed for long burning. Fuel for such boilers can be found anywhere, and the special design allows you to reduce the loading frequency from twice a day to once filling the firebox every 2-3 days. However, even such boilers are not exempt from periodic cleaning, so this is the main disadvantage of such a heater.

The worst choice of all possible is an electric boiler. The disadvantages of such a proposal are obvious - the transformation of electricity into coolant energy is too expensive. In addition, an electric boiler requires frequent replacement of the heater and the installation of a reinforced electrical wiring line, as well as grounding. The only advantage of this option is the complete absence of combustion products. An electric boiler does not require a chimney. Therefore, most households choose either gas or solid fuel options. However, in addition to the type of fuel, the homeowner also needs to pay attention to the parameters of the heat generator itself, or more precisely, to its power, which should compensate for the heat losses of the home in the winter.

Choosing a boiler based on power begins with calculating the square footage of the heated premises. Moreover, for each square meter there must be at least 100 watts of thermal power. That is, for a room of 70 square meters you need a boiler of 7000 watts or 7 kW. In addition, it would be a good idea to include a 15% reserve in the boiler capacity, which will be useful during severe cold weather. As a result, for a house of 70 m2 you need a boiler of 8.05 kW (7 kW 15%).

More accurate calculations of heater power rely not on the squares of the area, but on the volume of the house. In this case, it is generally accepted that the energy costs for heating one cubic meter are equal to 41 watts. And a house with an area of 70 m2 with a 3-meter ceiling height should be heated by a heat-generating device with a capacity of 8610 watts (70 × 3 × 41). And taking into account the 15 percent power reserve for extreme cold, the maximum heat-generating capacity of such a boiler should be equal to 9901 watts or, taking into account rounding, 10 kW.

Batteries and pipes - copper, propylene or metal-plastic?

To install a heating system throughout the house, we need pipes and radiators. The latter can be chosen even based on aesthetic preferences. In a private house there is no high pressure in the system, therefore, there are no restrictions on the strength characteristics of radiators. However, the requirements for the heat-generating capacity of batteries still remain. Therefore, when selecting radiators, it will be correct to focus not only on appearance, but also on heat transfer. After all, the power of the heating element must correspond to the area or volume of the room. For example, in a room of 15 square meters there should be a battery (or several radiators) with a power of 1.5 kW.

With pipes the situation becomes more complicated. Here you need to take into account not only the aesthetic component, but also the ability to install the network yourself using minimal knowledge and efforts on the part of a home-grown locksmith. Therefore, we can consider only three options as candidates for the role of ideal fittings for wiring:

Copper pipes - they are used in the arrangement of both domestic and industrial heating systems, but are very expensive. In addition, such fittings are connected using soldering, and not everyone is familiar with this operation.
Polypropylene pipes - they are cheap, but their installation requires a special welding machine. However, even a child can master such a device.
Metal-plastic pipes - such a system can be assembled using a wrench. In addition, metal-plastic is no more expensive polypropylene pipes and allows you to save on corner fittings.

As a result, it is better to assemble home-made heating based on metal-plastic fittings, since it does not require the performer to be able to handle a welding machine or soldering iron. In turn, collet fittings of a metal-plastic pipeline can be installed even by hand, helping yourself with wrenches only on the last 3-4 turns. Regarding the dimensions of the fittings, or rather the bore diameter, experienced specialists in the arrangement of heating systems have the following opinion: for a system with a pump, you can choose a ½-inch pipe - this bore diameter is sufficient for a home system in excess.

Well, if pressure equipment will not be used (water will flow through the pipes by gravity, driven by gravitational and thermal convection), then a 1¼ or 1½ inch pipe will be sufficient for such a system. There is no need to buy reinforcement of a larger diameter under such circumstances. And which wiring to choose - pressure or non-pressure, we will talk about this below in the text, at the same time discussing the optimal diagrams for connecting batteries to the boiler.

Optimal wiring diagram for self-installation

Home heating is based on two schemes: one-pipe and two-pipe. In addition, household wiring can also be built on a collector basis, but it is difficult for novice craftsmen to assemble such a circuit, so further in the text we will not consider this option, focusing only on one- and two-pipe options.

Single-pipe wiring assumes the following coolant circulation plan: the hot flow leaves the boiler jacket and flows through the pipe into the first battery, from which it enters the second, and so on, until the outermost radiator. There is virtually no return in such a system - it is replaced by a short section connecting the outermost battery and the boiler. Moreover, when designing a single-pipe forced circuit, pressure equipment (circulation pump) is placed on this section.

This system is very easy to assemble. To do this, you need to install the boiler, hang the batteries and run one wiring thread between each preinstalled elements of the heating circuit. However, you will have to pay for the ease of installation by the lack of mechanisms for controlling the heat transfer of radiators. In this case, you can regulate the temperature in the room only by changing the intensity of fuel combustion in the boiler. And nothing else.

Of course, given the high cost of fuel, this nuance will suit only a few homeowners, so they try not to use single-circuit wiring in rooms with an area of 50 square meters or more. However, such a layout is simply ideal for small buildings, as well as for the natural coolant circulation pattern, when the pressure is generated due to temperature and gravitational forces.

The two-pipe system is designed a little differently. In this case, the following coolant flow pattern applies: water leaves the boiler jacket and enters the pressure circuit, from which it drains into the first, second, third batteries, and so on. The return in this system is implemented in the form of a separate circuit, laid parallel to the pressure branch, and the coolant that has passed through the battery is drained into the return line, returning to the boiler. That is, in a double-circuit scheme, radiators are connected to the pressure and return pipes using special branches cut into two main lines.

To make such a circuit, you need to use more pipes and fittings, but all the costs will pay off in the near future. The dual-circuit option assumes the ability to adjust the heat transfer of each battery. To do this, it is enough to install a shut-off and control valve into the branch from the pressure line connected to the radiator, after which it becomes possible to control the volume of coolant pumped through the battery without interfering with the general circulation. Thanks to this, you can protect yourself not only from overheating the air in a particular room, but also from senseless overconsumption of fuel and personal funds allocated for its purchase.

This version of the wiring diagram has only one drawback: on its basis it is very difficult to assemble an effective system using natural coolant circulation. But based on a pump, it works much better than its single-circuit counterpart. Therefore, further in the text we will consider step by step instructions assembling a single-circuit system using natural circulation and a double-circuit network using forced movement of coolant.

Assembling a heating system with natural circulation

The construction of a natural circulation system begins with choosing a location. The heat source should be in a corner room, located at the lowest point of the wiring. After all, the batteries will go along the internal perimeter, along the load-bearing walls, and even the last radiator should be located slightly above the boiler. Once the location for the boiler has been chosen, you can begin installing it. To do this, the wall in the placement area is covered with tiles, and either a galvanized sheet or a flat slate panel is placed on the floor. The next stage is the installation of the chimney, after which you can install the boiler itself, connecting it to the exhaust pipe and fuel line (if there is one)

Further installation is carried out in the direction of movement of the coolant and is implemented according to the following scheme. First, batteries are hung under the windows. Moreover, the upper pipe of the last radiator should be located above the pressure outlet from the boiler. The amount of elevation is calculated based on the proportion: one linear meter of wiring is equal to two centimeters of elevation. The penultimate radiator is hung 2 cm higher than the last one, and so on, up to the first battery in the direction of the coolant.

When the required number of batteries is already hanging on the walls of the house, you can proceed to assembling the wiring. To do this, you need to connect a 30-centimeter section of horizontal pipeline to the pressure pipe (or fitting) of the boiler. Next, a vertical pipe raised to the ceiling level is attached to this section. In this pipe, a tee is screwed onto a vertical line, providing a transition to a horizontal slope and arrangement of the insertion point for the expansion tank.

To install the tank, use a vertical tee fitting, and screw a second horizontal section of the pressure pipe to the free outlet, which is pulled at an angle (2 cm by 1 m) to the first radiator. There the horizontal turns into a second vertical section, descending to the radiator pipe, to which the pipe is joined using a collet fitting with a threaded elbow.

Next, you need to connect the upper pipe of the first radiator with the corresponding connector of the second radiator. To do this, use a pipe of the appropriate length and two fittings. After this, the lower radiator pipes are connected in the same way. And so on, until the penultimate and last battery is connected. Finally, you need to install the Mayevsky faucet into the upper free fitting of the last battery and connect the return pipe to the lower free connector of this radiator, which is inserted into the lower pipe of the boiler.

To fill the system with water in the return pipe, you can install a tee insert with a ball valve on the side outlet. We connect the outlet from the water supply to the free end of this valve. After which the system can be filled with water and the boiler turned on.

Heating with forced circulation in 8 steps

It will also be justified in the case of single-circuit wiring. However, maximum efficiency of a system with forced circulation will be ensured only by two-pipe wiring, arranged according to the following rules:

1. The boiler can be installed on the floor or hung on the wall in any room without monitoring the level of the heating device.
2. Next, two pipes are lowered from the boiler pressure and return pipes to the floor level, using either couplings or corner fittings.
3. Two pipes are installed at the ends of these pipes. horizontal lines– pressure and return. They run along the load-bearing walls of the house, from the boiler to the location of the outermost battery.
4. At the next stage, you need to hang the batteries, not paying attention to the level of the pipes relative to the adjacent radiator. The entrance and exit from the battery can be located at the same level or at different levels; this fact will not affect the heating efficiency.
5. Next, we cut a tee into the pressure and return branches, placing them under the inlet and outlet of each battery. After this, we connect the tee of the pressure pipe to the inlet of the battery, and the fitting on the return line to the outlet. Moreover, this operation will have to be done with all batteries. Using a similar scheme, we install outlets in the system for connecting heated floors.
6. At the next stage, we install the expansion tank. To do this, we cut a tee into the section of the pressure pipe between the boiler and the first battery, the outlet of which is connected by a vertical pipe to the entrance to the expansion tank.
7. Next, you can begin installing the circulation pump. To do this, we install a valve and two tees in the return line between the first battery and the boiler, assembling a bypass for the pump. Next, we remove two L-shaped sections from the tees, between the ends of which we mount the pump.
8. Finally, we arrange a drain for pouring water into the system. To do this, you need to cut another tee between the pump and the boiler, connecting a hose from the water supply to its outlet.

Acting according to this plan, you can assemble a two-pipe wiring in a house of any size. After all, the design of such a system does not depend on the number of batteries - the installation principle will be identical for both two and 20 radiators.

How to increase system efficiency - battery or bypass?

To increase the efficiency of heating systems in everyday life, either heat accumulators or bypasses are used. The first ones are installed in large boiler rooms, the second ones - in small rooms where, in addition to the boiler, there is other equipment. A heat accumulator is a container filled with water, inside which the pressure and return lines of the heating system are laid. As a rule, such a container is placed immediately behind the boiler. Safety valves, expansion tanks and circulation pumps can be embedded into the section of the pressure and return pipeline located between the heater and the battery.

In this case, the pressure line heats the water in the tank, and the return line heats up from the liquid poured into the battery. Therefore, when the boiler burner is turned off, the system can operate for some time only from a heat accumulator, which is very beneficial when used in a circuit that generates excess energy at the start of combustion of a portion of wood or coal supplied with the firebox. The capacity of the heat accumulator is determined by the proportion 1 kW of boiler power = 50 liters of tank volume. That is, for a 10 kW heater you need a battery with a capacity of 500 liters (0.5 m3).

A bypass is a bypass pipe that is welded between the pressure and return branches. Its diameter should not exceed the radius of the main highway. Moreover, it is better to install a shut-off valve into the bypass body in advance, blocking the circulation of the coolant.

When the valve is open, part of the hot flow does not go into the pressure circuit, but directly into the return circuit. Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce the heating temperature of the battery by 10 percent, reducing the volume of coolant pumped through the radiator by 30%. As a result, using a bypass, you can regulate the operation of the radiator in both double-circuit and single-circuit wiring. In the latter case, this is especially true, since the bypass embedded in the first two batteries provides stronger heating of the last radiator in the line and makes it possible to control the temperature in the rooms, although not with such efficiency as in the case of a two-pipe wiring.

In an effort to make their home comfortable and independent from various utilities, many begin with autonomous heating of a house or apartment. In the process of its construction, issues arise that have to be resolved in a hurry or even “retroactively.”

You can install a heating system in a private home yourself or with the help of professionals. In any case, you need to be familiar with the design procedure, approval of permits and installation of the system. Such knowledge will allow you to monitor the quality of work at each stage and eliminate obvious errors.

How to make heating in a private house

To begin with, we will briefly list the main steps that will need to be completed on the way to achieving the goal:

choice of heating system;
selection of heating system components;
calculation of heating of a private house;
scheme development individual heating;
registration and obtaining permits;
heating system installation;
test run of the system.

It is important to adhere to consistency, because... phased implementation of the project eliminates errors that are difficult or expensive to correct.

1. Choice of heating - which heating system is best for a private home

The choice of autonomous heating is based on the type of boiler that runs on a certain type of fuel and differs in design elements. Among the most popular heating systems are gas, electric, liquid and solid fuel heating.

The main criteria for choosing a heating boiler are:

safety;
fuel availability;
compactness, ease of regulation, maintenance and maintainability;
economical installation and operation;
the opportunity to make heating yourself.

Heating systems for a private house - types and types

Water heating system

One of the most used heating systems in our country is water heating. Laying pipes in a house or apartment is a common occurrence.

The principle of operation of water heating is as follows: water heated from the boiler naturally (or forced) circulates through the pipes, giving off heat to the room. Considering the fact that along the way water moves at joints, at pipe bends, etc. friction and local resistance are formed; many systems are equipped with valves to provide pressure, the force of which is equal to the resistance losses. Such a water heating system is called a system with artificial water circulation.

A water heating system can be structurally implemented according to two schemes:

Single-circuit(closed water circulation system, oriented only for heating)

Dual-circuit(a system focused simultaneously on heating the room and heating water in the water supply system). Such a system requires the use of a special double-circuit boiler.

The water heating device involves 3 fundamentally different pipe layouts in the rooms.

Heating pipe layout

Single-pipe home heating system

The diagram of a single-pipe heating system is shown in the photo.

As can be seen from the figure, the pipes are looped, and the radiators are connected in turn. Thus, the coolant leaves the boiler and passes through each of them in turn.
It is worth noting that the temperature of the coolant gradually decreases. This is a significant disadvantage of the system. However, it is quite common due to its simplicity, cost-effectiveness and the ability to make a one-pipe heating system with your own hands.

How to reduce heat loss with a single-pipe heating system:

increase the number of sections in the last radiators (the last two or three);

increase the temperature of the coolant at the outlet. This, in turn, increases heating costs;

provide forced circulation of the coolant. That is, install a pump that will create additional pressure in the system, forcing the water to circulate faster.

Two-pipe house heating system

The diagram of a two-pipe heating system is shown in the photo. The exhaust pipe, which drains the cooled coolant from the radiator to the boiler, is highlighted in blue.

The two-pipe system ensures the supply of coolant to the radiators without loss of heat. Its varieties are shown in the photo. With parallel connection, savings on materials are achieved. With radiation, it becomes possible to regulate the temperature in each room separately.

Collector (radial) wiring

It involves the use of a special device - a collector, which collects coolant and distributes it through pipes to the batteries. The scheme is complex to implement, so it is rarely used.

An undoubted advantage of a water heating system is its safety.

Disadvantages include:

it is relatively difficult to heat a large area without significant costs (due to heat loss during water circulation);

aesthetic parameter. An extensive pipe system can be hidden by sacrificing a certain amount of room volume, which is not always convenient, or left in plain sight;

large heating radiators;

the likelihood of air pockets. This problem occurs after draining water from the system.