Do-it-yourself long-burning log. Long-burning wood-burning stove. Chimney and reflector

In the domestic climate, it is difficult to maintain comfortable conditions in the house without using any heating devices. In private homes, where there is no possibility of connecting to a centralized mains, various stoves are used for heating. As a rule, they are heated with wood. All heat generators of this type are conditionally divided into two categories:

1. wood stoves long burning(from six to ten hours);
2. devices of periodic operation.

Typically, devices belonging to the first group are often called gas generators. They will be discussed in today's article.

What's good about burning for a long time?

There are several positive aspects long burning mentioned above, let's get acquainted with them.

• The efficiency of the heating device increases noticeably.
• The same applies to the release of thermal energy.
• The time it takes for fuel to burn also increases, for this reason the frequency of fuel refills is reduced.

Honestly, all these properties are inherent in almost all modern models. Therefore, all this must be carefully dealt with.

Average prices and where to buy

The average price for long-burning wood stoves in stores starts from 10,000 rubles, and the ceiling reaches 50,000 rubles.

Design features and principle of operation

As for the design of long-burning furnaces, it includes three main elements:

1. metal casing;
2. dampers necessary to regulate the air supplied to the fuel combustion zone;
3. combustion chamber (two pieces), which is isolated from other structural elements.

And now in more detail about the principle of operation. In conventional heating devices that consume solid fuel, complete combustion of wood occurs in two to three hours. Of course, the house heats up quickly enough, but cooling, unfortunately, occurs just as intensely. Consequently, people often have to add firewood, and this is extremely inconvenient, especially when it comes to night time. Moreover, this kind of heat generator burns oxygen inside the house, and part of the thermal energy it generates simply goes outside through the chimney.

Note! The long-burning devices described in the article are usually made of steel or cast iron, and sheets with a thickness of 0.3 to 0.6 centimeters are used.

In terms of their design features, these furnaces differ significantly from ordinary heating devices - the volume of the combustion chamber here is much larger, and the chamber itself is made in the form of two separate parts. By the way, some of the models are additionally equipped with a built-in heat exchanger or an air convection system. The main feature of such furnaces is that they can operate in two modes. So, if you need to heat a room as quickly as possible, the damper opens completely, and the ash pan is extended a couple of centimeters. As for the long-term combustion mode, it is intended for long-term maintenance of a given temperature regime.

Note! Wood burning occurs extremely slowly, the amount of oxygen is insignificant, and the temperature is much higher (when compared with a conventional stove).

Such unusual characteristics that long-burning wood-burning stoves have are ensured by loading a large amount of fuel, as well as by limiting the supply of oxygen (the vent and damper are completely blocked). What is characteristic is that the firewood smolders and does not burn, and only a small part of it. Everything else is heated and forms “fuel gas,” which is subsequently also burned and provides the heated room with thermal energy. Because of all this, the efficiency of the heat generator increases significantly, since each load of fuel produces much more heat and burns for a long time.

It is also worth telling about another interesting point. If air is supplied to the combustion chamber in insufficient quantities, condensation will form on the walls of the heating device and the chimney pipe. If an excessive amount of oxygen is supplied, soot will begin to settle. In short, this “stick” also has two ends, so the dampers should be carefully adjusted manually before use. In principle, this is the whole peculiarity of the operation of long-burning models.

Long-burning wood-burning boiler

Previously, we talked about the principle of operation and design of a long-burning wood-burning boiler; in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information

Main advantages of devices

Some of them have already been mentioned in passing, so now we will only briefly list the strengths of the described wood stoves.

1. Light weight and compact dimensions, which means there is no need for arranging a base.
2. The fuel consumed is environmentally friendly and affordable, therefore the environment is not polluted.
3. Excellent efficiency indicator (can reach 80-85 percent).
4. Affordable price.
5. One load of fuel can burn for up to ten hours.
6. Such stoves look attractive, so the heating device may well “fit” into any interior of the house.
7. Such models are much more economical than the solid fuel boilers we are used to, which significantly reduces fuel consumption.
8. If it is necessary to move the device to another room, only a couple of people can handle this.
9. When fuel is added to the combustion chamber, the combustion process does not stop.
10. It is possible to install the stove in any room equipped with a chimney.
11. Each device has a mechanism for regulating the combustion of “fuel gases”.
12. Durability. For example, the service life of cast iron stoves can reach fifty years (the fact is that they are resistant to rust).

But there are also disadvantages that you should also be aware of before purchasing.

Flaws

WITH strengths We have already familiarized ourselves with such heat generators; all that remains is to talk about the weak ones. In reality, there are only four of them, especially since some of them are regarded as disadvantages very conditionally (all explained by design features). Let's look at them.

1. Setting up such furnaces is a rather complicated procedure, so it is recommended to entrust this matter to a professional. This is explained by a number of operational factors that can lead to a decrease in productivity. For example, if raw firewood is used, the air circulation will change not only in the room, but throughout the entire building.
2. Long-burning wood stoves are also quite difficult to equip with a water circuit. The reason for this is extremely simple - such devices are exclusively convection.
3. Extremely stringent requirements are placed on the chimney pipe. In this case, it is necessary not only to calculate the diameter of this pipe as accurately as possible, but also to install it correctly. Some of the models provide for vertical installation, in others it is inclined or partially horizontal. For this reason, this issue must be dealt with based on the design of a particular model.
4. Finally, the humidity of the firewood used is very important in this case. The fuel must be as dry as possible. If the humidity level is increased, the heat generation will decrease and the functioning of the heat generator will be disrupted. In any case, you shouldn’t expect high performance from it.

As you can see, the shortcomings are serious. Although we note that all of them are more than compensated for by excellent efficiency and heat transfer, savings in fuel consumption and other advantages of long-burning models.

Popular models of long-burning stoves

On the modern market there are enough a large number of different models, but the most popular of them are only three (they will be discussed below).

Model No. 1. "Buleryan"

A Canadian-made device, which is barrel-shaped and made of high-quality steel. The combustion chamber has two tiers and is equipped with air ducts. As for the ash collection, in this case it is completely absent. Thanks to the air ducts, it is also possible to heat the adjacent room.

It is also worth noting that there are two operating modes in which these heat generators from Canada can operate:

1. kindling;
2. direct long-term burning.

The kindling mode takes about thirty minutes and is aimed at warming up the room and the device in particular. After this, the second mode is activated - the combustion chamber is completely filled with firewood, the door closes, and the flow of supplied air decreases. The burning time of one bookmark in this case is ten to twelve hours. "Buleryan" consumes a small amount of fuel, but it must be dry. The use of other firewood is unacceptable.

As for the disadvantages, there are only two of them: the chimney pipe needs thermal insulation, and the “fuel gas” is not completely burned.

Video – “Buleryan”

Model No. 2. "Professor Butakov"

Quite an interesting heating device that looks very attractive, but at the same time is equipped with grates. Convection pipes in this case are highly efficient, and the pipe through which the device is connected to the chimney is located at the top. The resulting condensate flows back into the device body and burns there.

It is worth noting that due to the absence of a condensate collector, the chimney cleaning procedure is quite complicated. You must remember this when installing a long-burning wood stove and equip it with a base that, if necessary, can be removed in order to disconnect the device from the chimney duct. The dimensions of “Professor Butakov” may be different, but due to the presence of grates, the burning duration is not as long as, for example, that of “Buleryan”.

Model No. 3. "Breneran"

A Russian-made stove called “Breneran” is not much different from the “Buleryan” already mentioned above. A distinctive feature of convection pipes here is that they can be fitted with special sleeves made of aluminum, which allow them to heat adjacent rooms. It is also worth noting that these sleeves provoke significant heat loss. Consequently, experienced specialists recommend equipping such furnaces with thermal insulating casings, as well as installing a manifold with subsequent piping to adjacent rooms. But neither the collector nor the thermal insulation casing is manufactured on a serial scale, and the production of such elements to order in terms of cost will be equivalent to purchasing the heating device itself.

Note! The disadvantage of this model is the smoke pipe with a tee and a condensate collector located on the wall. It is impossible to make such a collection airtight; therefore, condensation penetrates into the building.

“Breneran” is produced in various sizes, so you can choose the most suitable model for any home. We also note that, for example, “Aqua-Breneran” makes it possible to connect a water heating system.

But at the same time, the cold working fluid will cool the gases, which will cause condensation to form (read: the combustion duration will be noticeably reduced).

Video – “Breneran”

We choose a long-burning stove. Main selection criteria

The main point to consider when purchasing a heat generator is its power. Let us also add that the dimensions of the heating device depend on it. And if, for example, you install a large device with significant power in a small room, then it will take up a lot of space, the temperature will be excessively high, and fuel, of course, will be burned in vain. But if you install a device of insignificant power in a large building, then it will work literally at the limit of its capabilities, which is why, most likely, it will soon fail.

We also note that the range of long-burning units is considerable, so everyone can choose a model for the specific size of the heated room.

How to make such a stove yourself

It is quite possible to make such a device yourself. First you need to take care of consumables and necessary equipment.

To work you will need:

1. 200-liter metal barrel (volume may be different);
2. ingredients for preparing masonry mortar;
3. a pair of steel pipes - one shorter, the second longer;
4. welding machine with a set of electrodes;
5. iron channel;
6. Sheet steel;
7. hacksaw for metal;
8. reflector (you can do without it);
9. hammer;
10. red brick (about 50 units);
11. mallet;
12. axe.

Now let’s look at how long-burning wood stoves can be made. Let's start with preparation.

Stage one. Barrel preparation

The top is cut off from the barrel (for this you will need a grinder). This should be done as carefully and accurately as possible, since this tip will be useful in the future. In the absence of a barrel, the heating device can be made from a small piece of metal pipe with a large diameter.

Then one side of the pipe is welded with a bottom (a circle cut from sheet steel). By the way, the bottom can be square rather than round - this way the device will have a more stable position.

Stage two. Case manufacturing

Step 1. A circle is cut out of steel, the diameter of which should be slightly smaller than the internal diameter of the body. In this circle, another one is cut out, with a diameter of 10 centimeters, for the pipe. A piece of pipe of the same diameter is welded to the circle.

Step 2. Pieces of channels are welded to the bottom of this circle, measured in such a way as to fit freely inside the body. During operation, these channels will press down the fuel as it burns.

Note! The length of the pipe welded to the circle should be 150-200 millimeters greater than the total height of the body.

Step 4. A hatch for loading fuel is cut out in the side, after which the door is welded. You can either purchase such a door or make it yourself. It is equipped with a handle.

Step 5. Another smaller door is built slightly lower, through which coals and ash will be removed.

Stage three. Base

The foundation must be strong and solid. Its design is extremely simple, so it’s not even worth talking about. There is no need to dig a pit, since the weight of the device is small. Anyone can handle pouring the slab. Alternatively, you can make a brick foundation. After this, the chimney is installed and that’s it – you can start the first start!

Video - Making a long-burning stove

When the budget allows, you can purchase a long-burning stove manufactured at the enterprise. This option has an elegant look and can last a very long time. In addition, the unit is absolutely safe to operate. However, not everyone can afford such a purchase. And then the question arises about making such a stove yourself. It is also called pyrolysis. The creation process is relatively complex and requires strict adherence to all the necessary technologies and algorithms. First you need to thoroughly study how this device functions. You must have experience with metalworking and other turning skills.

Main characteristics and advantages of long-burning furnaces

Long-burning stoves, created independently, can operate on the following types of solid fuel:

• firewood;
• coal;
• sawdust.

The cost of fuel cells is low. For this reason they have become very widespread. The long-burning wood-burning stove has gained great popularity among home owners. It is created at home, called “bubafoneya”.

What is a long burning stove?

There may be slight differences in the designs of long-burning stoves. But the principle of their operation is similar - this is the generation of thermal energy during pyrolysis (not using the open flame method), when the wood is exposed to an impressive temperature with a limited amount of oxygen. And the fuel smolders, forming hot gas. It contains:

Pros and cons of long-burning stoves

The use of long-burning furnaces operating on solid fuel, in the heating system of premises helps to eliminate almost all the shortcomings inherent in standard designs using similar fuel:

1. Pyrolysis units are characterized by higher efficiency when compared with classical modifications.
2. Long-burning stoves do not need to be constantly loaded with wood or coal.
3. The operation of the pyrolysis system can be automated.

A small caveat needs to be made regarding this last benefit. When a homemade heat-generating apparatus is used, there is usually no need for automation, since even one load of fuel cells guarantees uninterrupted operation for 20 hours.

Design features of pyrolysis furnaces

Combustion in a pyrolysis furnace is characterized by low dynamics and high efficiency. It is provided by air supply using a regulator. When the fuel cells ignite thoroughly (approximately 20 minutes after loading), you need to close the air supply hole. This minimizes the passage of oxygen.

The main contribution to heat generation in a pyrolysis furnace is made by flue gases, which are located in a special sealed compartment

The fuel smolders and is almost completely converted to gas. And the flue gases are concentrated in the ignition compartment. When they burn out, a lot of heat is generated. If you try to implement this method of combustion in a conventional stove, directing its operation to smoldering mode, you can cause serious damage to your own safety. In the best case, the gases will rush into the chimney. At worst, they will end up indoors, bypassing doors with weak seals.

Making a long-burning stove with your own hands

Before starting installation and assembly work, it is necessary to correctly calculate the operating mode of the furnace and its design, and then prepare everything necessary materials and tools. We will consider the furnace manufacturing process step by step, starting with the creation of a detailed diagram of the heating unit.

Calculation of furnace parameters according to drawings

To make a preliminary assessment of the upcoming scope of work and the configuration of the main elements of the pyrolysis furnace, it is necessary to study the general diagram of its structure.

For reference, we present a table of the dependence of the main parameters of the furnace on the diameter of its base

Table: thickness of the workpiece and height of the duct ribs for different diameters of the furnace base

Inner diameter furnace cylinder (D), mm	Workpiece thickness pancake (q), mm	Ribs height air ducts (H), mm
300	8÷10	40
400	6÷8	50
600	4÷6	60
800	2.5÷4	80

When the diameter of the cylinder does not fit the values ​​​​indicated in the table, the thickness is calculated by proportions, focusing on the standard of the metal sheet (its thickness).

The air channels must be made rounded and arranged in a spiral. This will ensure optimal movement of flue gases.

Required tools and materials

A very important stage of preparation is the selection of necessary materials and tools. The key component is a cast iron barrel with a capacity of 200 liters. You can also work with a steel barrel. The main thing is that it has no defects or rust. If there is no suitable barrel available, you can use:

• element of a very thick pipe;
• sheet steel;
• massive fire extinguisher;
• unused gas cylinder.

The main requirement is wall thickness. It determines the service life of the furnace.

Other materials:

1. Metal products for making legs. Fittings, elements of small-sized pipes or channels are suitable.
2. Steel 5 mm thick. You need two circles that have the same diameter as the barrel.
3. Ready-made or self-made door.
4. The pipe is 10 cm in diameter and 15 cm long longer than the barrel itself.
5. A pipe with a diameter of 15 cm and a length of approximately 5 m. It is necessary for the chimney.

Tools:

1. Bulgarian. Instead, you can use autogen.
2. Ax and hammer.
3. Measuring instruments: level, plumb line, tape measure.

Selection of installation location

After installing the stove, they make a reflector, but plan this before measuring and welding. It helps to optimally direct heat flows so that the room is heated evenly. In addition, the reflector seriously increases the level of safety during the heating process.

The area intended for installation of the furnace must not violate any of the fire safety criteria, since the hot furnace body is a potential source of fire. And this is what it becomes when the user violates the operating rules of this unit by incorrectly calculating the amount of sawdust or firewood.

The oven should not be placed near walls or any flammable objects. Sufficient space should be maintained around it. For example, the distance to wooden walls cannot be less than 25 cm.

Even before the assembly process, it is necessary to select a workspace. All stages of production will take place there. The following criteria apply to the premises:

• availability of power supply;
• availability of the necessary space;
• powerful sound insulation;
• protection from precipitation;
• ability to store workpieces.

Soundproofing is needed in order not to cause discomfort to neighbors. After all, the work turns out to be quite noisy. You can do without this insulation when the work area is located far from residential buildings.

Step-by-step instructions for self-assembly of a long-burning stove

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Let’s assume that we use what is available in private garages or workshops. These are old gas cylinders. They are prepared for work as follows: the upper side of the structure is carefully cut off. The formed element will become the basis. For cutting, a grinder or autogen is used here.

   The top part of the gas cylinder is cut off and a window is made for loading firewood.

2. After cutting the top side, a side hole is made in the cylinder body. It is needed to load fuel into the furnace during its operation. Based on the parameters of the hole, you need to make a door and then put it in place. The door should close this hole very tightly.
3. Below the marked hole, another smaller one is made. Ash will be removed through this compartment. It also functions as a blower.
4. When the cylinder is ready, the next stage begins: preparation of the starting material. Here we take a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a metal sheet. A circle of slightly smaller diameter than the balloon is prepared from it. A hole is created in its center for the working pipe. The circle is put on it and welded.

   A pipe is welded onto a circle slightly smaller in diameter than the cylinder and a lid is obtained with which to cover the burning firewood

5. 2-3 channels are welded onto the lower side of the circle. Their role is to increase the mass of the lid.
6. Then the circle is lowered into the prepared (cut) gas cylinder. After this, holes for the pipe are created in the lid. After which the cover is placed in its position and welded.

Video: do-it-yourself bubafonya from a gas cylinder

Features of manufacturing a sheet metal stove

Let's consider working with a sheet metal base. In his work, the master must precisely:

1. Calculate the parameters of all structural components.
2. Mark sheet material.
3. Process all elements of the device.
4. Carry out welding operations.

Required conditions:

Modernization of the furnace, increasing efficiency

There are three main ways to increase the efficiency of a stove: one of them is related to the chimney, the second is related to the fuel, and the third is related to operating conditions.

Chimney design optimization

For the chimney, as already noted, a pipe with a diameter of 15 cm and a length of 5 m is used. If you install a smaller pipe, especially in diameter, then it will not cope with the resulting loads. And the furnace itself will operate with reduced efficiency. To adjust the draft, a valve is installed in the pipe. A door is created at the bottom of the chimney for easy cleaning.

Condensation forms and accumulates in any pipes. And in pipes during pyrolysis it turns out even more, since the gases, having parted with all their heat, have negative temperatures at the outlet. This trend becomes the reason for high-quality insulation of pipes. The sandwich technology copes with this task perfectly. Its essence: a second one is introduced into one pipe, and a thermal protection layer is made between them.

You can also make a sandwich pipe with your own hands by wrapping the chimney with insulating material and protecting the structure with an outer pipe

In areas where pipes pass through the roof, it is necessary to perform thermal insulation using a metal box filled with insulation. A deflector is placed on the head of the pipe. It prevents precipitation from entering the system and also protects against the effects of wind.

If the installation site for the stove is a fireplace, there is no need for a reflector. When the stove is located in a room, the surrounding masonry performs two functions:

1. Protective screen for walls and things.
2. Heat accumulator.

Since the body of the structure is metal, the oven quickly heats up and cools down. Cooling occurs immediately after the fuel burns out. Therefore, a brick screen created with three sides from the stove, accumulates heat and releases it over a long time. You can use corrugated sheets or a smooth metal sheet as a reflector.

What fuel is better to use in long-burning stoves

The efficiency of the furnace also depends on the fuel used. It is best to use dry logs. But since the stove is homemade, you can save on fuel. The device can even work on waste made from natural materials.

• cones;
• wood chips;
• sawdust;
• nutshell;
• straw.

Coal gives a good combustion temperature. But its use is justified when the oven is made only of materials with a decent thickness. Otherwise, such a unit will quickly burn out. A table showing the specific heat transfer of various materials can serve as a guide.

Table: specific loading coefficient and specific heat transfer of various types of fuel

Operation of long-burning furnaces

At first glance, it may seem that to fire a pyrolysis furnace you just need to throw firewood into the combustion chamber. This is just a superficial impression. It is important to do the following:

1. Remove the cover, take out the pressure circle and pipe. Place fuel on the bottom of the stove. The filling limit is the opening of the chimney pipe. Fuel elements are stacked as closely as possible to each other. Light small branches are thrown over them. And they are covered with a rag soaked in kerosene. You can also place paper.
2. Then the pressure circle must be returned to its place, and the lid must be closed. When the unit flares up, you need to close the damper that conducts the air flow. And she will remain in this position for a long time.

When creating a chimney, be sure to provide convenient ways to clean it. It is best if the structure can be quickly disassembled. When a composite chimney pipe is made, its parts are connected so that the joints are located in the opposite direction compared to the moving gases.

Cleaning and repair of long-burning stoves

If the stove is used incorrectly, its performance may deteriorate and efficiency may decrease. Therefore, periodically check the device for cracks and other defects. It is especially important to study the areas around the perimeter of the combustion chamber door and stove. If serious cracks are found, the defective parts must be replaced. Small gaps can be filled with sealant.

All burnt and cracked parts of the stove must be replaced in a timely manner.

Video: long-burning stove - cleaning and checking

If you have a small house, a garage, or just need to efficiently heat a utility room, a long-burning stove is the best option. Having some experience working with metal and welding skills, such a device can be built in 1–2 days. If the result is successful, you will be able to save money and gain satisfaction from the process of making a useful thing with your own hands.

Solid fuel as the main source of heat has not lost its position for many decades. And even today, taking into account the electric and gas alternatives, solid fuel boilers are still very popular, especially when it comes to long-term combustion.

Such equipment can work on different types, starting with sawdust and ending with coal. Depending on the region and the cost of fuel, preference is given to one type or another. Of course, natural gas is the most inexpensive heating method, but it is not available in all areas and regions. Electricity is the most expensive source of heat, although it is ubiquitous. And if we are talking about a long-burning stove with our own hands, then we will be able to save not only on operation, but also on manufacturing. You can make such a stove yourself if you understand diagrams and drawings and know how to work with metal.

Why boilers and furnaces are more economical to operate

In order to figure this out, let’s use the opposite method and compare it with conventional ovens.

What are the disadvantages of a standard stove:

• extremely low efficiency, which at best is 80%;
• the need for constant monitoring of fuel burnout - the filling time is 2-4 hours depending on the volume of the firebox;
• lack of ability to automate combustion.

The long-burning stove eliminates these shortcomings, resulting in it becoming an optimized analogue of a traditional stove.

Here the combustion process is replaced by smoldering - due to the limited amount of oxygen, the firewood in the firebox does not burn, but actually smolders, simultaneously releasing pyrolysis gas. In turn, it burns in a separate chamber, due to which the coefficient increases by 12-15%. useful action unit. As a result, the burning time of one stack of firewood increases to 8-10 hours.

Furnace diagram

As for process automation, this has been successfully implemented in pellet stoves, where pellets are used as fuel.

For reference! Pellets are pressed sawdust, dust, rot, wood chips and other fine waste from the woodworking industry, treated with natural resins.

This stove is presented together with a bunker for pellets. When some of the fuel burns out, the firebox is automatically filled with additional volume. Without human intervention, such a long-burning stove can operate for several days.

Manufacturing process

It is better to start making a stove by finding a suitable room. Working with metal is, in principle, very dusty, and considering that all this will need to be welded and sawed, it is better to use a utility room where there is 220 V electrical wiring.

Technical nuances when constructing a furnace in the video:

Required materials and tools

• a metal container with a minimum volume of 200 liters (a used gas cylinder is ideal for this purpose);
• 2 pieces of pipe ∅10 cm;
• channel;
• refractory bricks for masonry (55 pcs.);
• a piece of sheet 60-80 cm diagonally;
• ready-mix or cement mortar for masonry;
• a set of tools for working with metal;
• electric arc welding and electrodes;
• mounting level;
• plumb lines.

As a base, you can use any metal container with a wall thickness of at least 4 mm. Even a fire extinguisher will do, but it is advisable to install such a stove only in small rooms.

Manufacturing process

Initially, it is necessary to prepare the furnace body. To do this, we repeat, you can use any container made of steel, cast iron, stainless steel with a wall thickness of 4-5 mm. Most often, a used gas cylinder is used as a base, which must be washed and primed to eliminate the smell and gas residues.

If there is no suitable container, it can be welded from a steel sheet 5-6 mm thick with a diameter of at least 40-50 cm. The bottom is welded to the cylinder. The lid is prepared separately. You can make the future stove rectangular or square - the shape does not matter, it is important that the welds are airtight.

The roof of the cylinder or fire extinguisher will need to be cut off. A spark cylinder can create a semblance of detonation. First fill it to the brim with water and start cutting.

If you cook a container from a sheet, it is better to make the bottom not from a circle along the diameter of the cylinder, but from a rectangle - you will immediately have a stable base.

Separately, cut out another circle from the sheet with a diameter a centimeter or two less than the diameter of the barrel, and in it cut out a circle ∅10 cm for the pipe. Use welding to weld the pipe to the hole.

At the edges of the steel circle from the channel, weld legs that will simultaneously hold the base and push the fuel during its combustion.

The length of the pipe section should be at least 15 cm greater than the height of the entire structure so that at the end of combustion the pipe is one level higher than the edge of the barrel.

From the top of the cylinder (fire extinguisher) or separately from a sheet, cut out a circle for the future lid. It is advisable to weld a kind of “skirt” along the edges so that the lid fits as tightly as possible.

In the lid, cut a hole ∅10 cm for another pipe.

On the body of the barrel itself, cut two holes - for the firebox and for the ash pan. For each of them, place a door on the hinges, and weld a handle from a corner or channel to it. Both holes are connected to each other by a grate on which fuel will be placed.

Example of a rectangular long-burning stove

Foundation structure

The total mass of the stove is not large, even taking into account the lining of refractory bricks. However, the foundation under it must be strong and stable.

You should not make even a small excavation under the foundation; a completely flat area filled with concrete is sufficient.

Bricks from which the stove spot is laid, ceramic tiles, cement floor, etc. can be used as the base. In principle, only one thing is ideal straightness, which should be checked using a mounting level.

Chimney

This is an essential element of absolutely any solid fuel stove. A pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm, welded on top with a slight deviation, will serve as a chimney for a homemade design.

The length of the straight section of the chimney must be at least the diameter of the entire stove so that combustion products are discharged unhindered. When arranging a chimney pipe, angles of more than 450, a large number of bends before leaving the room and a minimum length are not allowed. It is optimal when the chimney pipe is absolutely straight to the exit. By the way, to make cleaning easier, it should be made of two parts.

The only exception concerns the rocket stove; in this case, the chimney is used as an additional heat source and passes either under the floor or under the sunbed.

Reflector

This is a metal or foil sheet mounted on the wall behind the stove. The main task of such an element is to reflect heat from the wall and prevent fire. As an additional bonus of the reflector, the temperature in the room increases due to the return of heat from the wall and the redistribution of heat flows.

Final assembly of the structure

Finished body

Decorative design

Brick lining is a purely personal matter, which depends only on aesthetic taste. The presence of a brick shell does not have much effect on the efficiency of the furnace. According to some data, the burning time of one stack of firewood increases due to a decrease in heat loss, although this effect is very doubtful. A pure experiment using one type of stove and type of fuel, where in one case there is a brick shell, and in the second there is not, has not yet been carried out.

Covering the stove with bricks or not is optional. Choose whether it is worth performing additional work if, for example, such a stove is located in a utility room or a separate boiler room.

The principle of a long-burning stove using solid fuel (wood, sawdust, wood chips or pellets) is the same in all cases - whether such a unit is standing or heating a country house. The pyrolysis process, which occurs with minimal air access, significantly increases the boiler efficiency and burnout time.

Before building a stove with your own hands, pay attention to the following nuances:

• individual sections of the chimney are collected in the direction against the movement of gases;
• there should be at least a meter of free space around the stove so as not to pose a threat to health or property;
• install the stove on a small pedestal. So that it can be carefully removed and the chimney pipe separated - in this case, cleaning will not create any hassle.

How to make a regular bubafonya (long-burning stove) with a water jacket - video:

With the onset of cold autumn days, it becomes necessary to heat the garage while repairing a car or to keep warm while harvesting potatoes on your site. A long-burning wood stove can be an excellent replacement for expensive stoves and will fit perfectly into small auxiliary rooms where it does not make sense to constantly maintain heat.

In ordinary potbelly stoves, which have long been known to everyone, wood burns quickly, and you need a lot of it to heat the room. In order to make a long-burning stove from a potbelly stove, it was necessary to equip it with an additional device for long-burning fuel. Craftsmen found a way out of this situation, and different versions of such units appeared: Slobozhanka, pyrolysis, bubafonya and others. They are very economical; they can be heated with wood, sawdust, wood chips and other flammable waste from firewood. They can burn, or rather smolder, all day long, and their efficiency exceeds 90%. They do not need constant supervision.

These stoves are convenient to install in greenhouses, garages, dachas and small wooden houses. The disadvantage will be the special organization of the chimney, in which it is impossible to make several outlets. As soon as the wood burns, the potbelly stove cools down, but during combustion it becomes very hot. You can make a potbelly stove from anything, and its design is quite simple. You can cut it out of metal, and then it turns out to be rectangular in shape.

You can make a long-burning potbelly stove from an ordinary steel barrel or a used gas cylinder. The principle of operation is the same everywhere - smoldering. A special feature of such heating devices are two chambers, which are divided into two parts: for fuel and for further combustion of coal and gases. The furnace design includes a piston that:

• supplies air to the firebox;
• exerts uniform strong pressure on the firewood, they smolder and fall evenly down.

The wood in the firebox burns very slowly. At the same time, the gas that is formed during combustion burns in the adjacent chamber. In this slow-action mode, the oven does not heat up much, so the walls should be thin. When heating a large room, a more powerful design is chosen, and then it is required large quantity firewood, respectively, and the heat transfer will be higher.

As the wood burns, the chamber itself decreases, on which the damper that regulates the air circulation presses from above.

In a residential area, such a device is not entirely convenient and profitable. To load fuel or clean soot, you must first remove the dirty piston. And to remove soot, you need to remove the chimney elbow and turn the stove body over.

How to make a wood stove. Potbelly stove efficiency 200%

Preparatory work

Suitable for every garage owner make a homemade stove. You can build a long-burning potbelly stove with your own hands within a few hours from a used barrel. It must be durable, with a smooth surface. If dents or bulges remain in any place, the air duct will not fit tightly to the fuel and will hang over it. The walls of the container must be freed from residual gasoline, paint, glue, etc. using a gas torch or blowtorch, and then cleaned with a wire brush. Then you need to make the piston and blades.

The grinder will not cope in this case, since the metal is quite thick, and it is better to contact a service center or factory. At home, all that remains is to clean the cutting areas, remove drops and build-ups. The next stage of preparation is choosing a location for installation. Here you need to follow some mandatory rules.

Firstly, the floor must be level, and secondly, the stove must stand on a protected surface: you can use metal sheets or asbestos fiber boards. The potbelly stove is installed away from flammable materials.

The heating device must not be installed under hanging furniture. It is also taken into account how the chimney will be arranged. To prevent heat from escaping into the pipe, when its vertical part passes on the street, its other part is laid horizontally. If it goes around the room, then the potbelly stove can be installed using any method. You also need to decide how the required amount of air will flow to the thermal chamber. You can't do without good ventilation here.

Original long-burning potbelly stove

The first step is to create a firebox: The top round part of the barrel is carefully cut off. After this, the edges of the barrel and the cut part are processed with a hammer or sledgehammer. In this case, the uneven edges of the barrel are rounded inward, and those of the circle are rounded outward. This procedure is necessary to create greater tightness when closing the lid. Next, a round metal disk with the same diameter as the barrel itself is welded onto the body of the future furnace.

This surface can be used to prepare food or boil tea. In place of the plug, which is located on top of the barrel, a sliding damper is installed that regulates the supply of secondary air, which enters the afterburning zone. A hole is cut in the middle of the lid for the air duct, which is welded in a circle with metal. The piston is made from a steel sheet or from the bottom of another barrel.

Long-burning potbelly stove.

Additional metal parts are welded onto the upper plane of the piston so that the force of its pressure corresponds to the calculations of air flow into the firebox. A hole is made in the center of the pressure circle, the diameter of which must coincide with the outer diameter of the air duct, and they are firmly welded to each other. Then, blades up to 40 mm high must be attached to the bottom of the piston, which are used to distribute oxygen evenly throughout the firebox.

They are smooth and round. You can use both, but with rounded ones, the smoke flow flows as if in a spiral, and its path slows down. Ultimately, the heat output of the furnace increases. A divider is attached to the center of the piston on the pipe side. A damper with a lock is installed on top of the pipe to regulate the flow of the primary portion of air. A pipe is mounted into the upper opening, which is cut on the body, by welding with a continuous seam. A support frame with legs is constructed from various scrap metals.

An important part when creating a potbelly stove is a chimney with pipes, the diameter of which should be slightly more than 10 cm. You also need to prepare three elbows and a plug and connect everything sequentially to each other:

Manual

In pyrolysis ovens Only dry firewood is used. The fact is that when raw wood is burned, a large amount of water vapor is released, and it greatly reduces the heating temperature of the fuel. In addition, complete combustion of volatile substances does not occur, and when cooling in the chimney, they remain on its walls, which are very difficult to remove during cleaning. When raw wood burns, a lot of harmful substances are released. chemical substances, affecting environment and people's health.

With well-dried fuel, the waste consists mainly of carbon dioxide and water vapor, and small, subtle air movement can be seen outside. Before filling the stove with wood, the piston is removed. The operating time of a potbelly stove and its heat output depend on the density of the fuel. Even small gaps between the logs are filled with chips, shavings, sawdust, etc. A rag soaked in kerosene is placed on top of everything, and, having replaced the piston, the heating device is tightly closed with a lid. Only after this they throw a burning match there.

It is not recommended to put various household waste, except paper, into the stove. All plastic products and shampoo bottles, foam inserts, and plastic bags, when burned, will release many dangerous elements that cannot decompose even during pyrolysis. In addition, they will emit a high percentage of soot, which will clog the chimney ahead of schedule.

The problem of conservation and economical use of energy resources is currently very acute. City residents usually do not have many opportunities to save money, since all apartments are connected to a central heating system. Prices for housing and communal services for all apartments of equal size will be the same, so everyone finds themselves in the same conditions. Another thing is the private sector with an individual heating system. This is where you can be smart and have room for a creative approach to solving a problem. In this article we will learn that long-burning wood-burning stoves for summer cottages are one of the most optimal options for getting out of this situation.

Actually, the efficiency of our home heating will depend on two main factors:

• Quality of insulation (thermal insulation) of the walls and windows of the building;
• The efficiency with which our heating installation (furnace or boiler) uses fuel.

The purpose of this article is to introduce you to one of the types of economical and productive wood-burning stoves that allow you to ensure the most complete combustion of logs. These heating installations are called pyrolysis furnaces. Every year their popularity is increasing, so many are thinking about building such a heater with their own hands. How do long-burning pyrolysis furnaces work? internal organization, as well as instructions for self-assembly - you will learn all this by reading our article.

Long-burning wood stove in the country

Basics physical phenomenon, without which it is impossible to imagine the operation of any furnace, is the oxidation of various substances by oxygen contained in the air. Fire, tamed by our ancestors millions of years ago, has become so familiar today that we don’t even think about how combustion occurs, with which each of us has been familiar since childhood. The seemingly simple question “how does wood burn?”, in fact, requires a separate explanation. After all, without understanding the basics, we will not be able to understand how economical pyrolysis furnaces work and why they are so good and economical.

Actually, the formation of a flame occurs in several stages:

1. First, the wood heats up and dries, releasing water vapor into the environment, which prevents fire from starting. This requires an external source of energy, which is usually flammable paper, kindling liquid, or a pile of small burning wood chips.
2. Firewood, which from a chemical point of view is a complex organic structure, consists of three main elements: carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. When heated, wood disintegrates, and these components, in the form of various simple gaseous compounds, begin to be released into the surrounding space. The general name for all substances formed during fuel heating is pyrolysis gases, and for the process itself is pyrolysis.
3. At the next stage, the wood decomposition products ignite and accelerate the pyrolysis of the remaining logs more and more, providing the fire with fresh fuel.
4. In the end, the tree burns, leaving behind some of the coals that did not have time to react with the oxidizing agent.

Actually, the idea that made it possible to build long-burning furnaces is to ensure the most complete decomposition of fuel in such a way that after its use there is practically no unburned waste left. To do this, it was necessary to slow down the pyrolysis as much as possible so that the entire volume of firewood would gradually and completely disintegrate into pyrolysis gases.

Why are stoves called long-burning stoves?

A long-burning stove is quite easy to distinguish from a regular one. The fact is that the implementation of the idea of ​​high-quality and complete pyrolysis required the introduction of not one, but two combustion chambers into the stove design. In the first, the firewood slowly smolders, emitting a gas mixture of methane, hydrogen and other components. Smoldering is ensured by an artificially created lack of oxidizer supplied to the firebox. Further, entering the second chamber, the gaseous pyrolysis mixture begins to burn fully, providing heating to the room in which the boiler is installed. Often, the secondary firebox is also additionally blown with air using a special fan. This ensures the most complete oxidation and combustion of the entire volume of gases, and leads to a significant increase in the efficiency of the entire heating installation.

Pyrolysis ovens are often also equipped with a separate cooling circuit, which evenly distributes heat throughout all rooms in the house. Such a heating boiler copes well with even the most severe winter frosts, providing high-quality heating of the entire living space. An example of a block diagram revealing the internal structure of a pyrolysis stove with a water block can be seen in the figure below.

Advantages and disadvantages of pyrolysis furnaces

Nothing in this world is perfect, so even long-burning wood stoves are not without their drawbacks. The main ones are the following:

• The price of modern high-tech long-burning pyrolysis furnaces with good efficiency indicators will be quite high. However, you can save a lot of money by designing a heating device yourself.
• Pyrolysis boilers of industrial production often require additional uninterrupted power supply to their auxiliary units: air injection systems (combustion chamber pressurization), water heating circuit pumps, sensors, etc.
• Long-burning stoves are more finicky in terms of moisture requirements for wood logs. Insufficiently dried firewood placed in the firebox of a pyrolysis boiler can easily go out, stopping the operation of the entire heating system.
• Compared to gas (electric) boilers, boilers or water heaters, long-burning stoves are significantly larger in size and also require additional free space for storing firewood.
• You will have to add fuel to the pyrolysis boiler manually; this operation cannot be fully automated 100%.
• A more complex water circuit design compared to other types of heating installations. The fact is that too supercooled coolant, returning from the batteries to the boiler heat exchanger, can interrupt the smoldering of the wood and extinguish the firebox. To avoid such a situation, you have to install an additional pipe (the so-called “bypass”), which allows you to mix already heated water with cold water. Naturally, as the complexity of the heating circuit design increases, the total cost of the entire device also increases.

At first glance, the list of disadvantages of long-burning wood stoves seems very impressive. And many people have a logical question: why is this type of stove so popular and in such good demand? The answer is simple and obvious: all the disadvantages of a pyrolysis installation are more than compensated by the advantages that the owner of such a device receives:

• Fuel energy is used almost 100%. All loaded firewood will burn to the ground, completely transferring its heat to the heated room. High-quality industrial-made long-burning stoves have fantastic efficiency indicators, up to 90 percent. For greater clarity, we provide below a table that compares the efficiency of boilers various types.

• Long-burning wood stoves are convenient and easy to maintain, and produce almost no waste. There is nothing left of the firewood except a handful of ash.
• Environmental friendliness of the heating system. With complete pyrolysis combustion, only water vapor is released into the atmosphere and carbon dioxide. During operation of a high-quality pyrolysis oven, you will not feel any extraneous unpleasant odors, compared to a conventional oven. This is explained by the fact that the source of such aromas are unburnt complex organic compounds. In a long-burning furnace, fuel oxidation occurs 100%, so it can easily be heated even with industrial waste.
• One “filling” of logs is enough for 10-15 (and sometimes more) hours of continuous operation. No ordinary wood stove can burn for that long.
• The heating system based on a pyrolysis boiler very quickly warms up the house and enters operating mode.
• The power of a heating device using the pyrolysis effect can be easily and smoothly adjusted, just like a gas or electric one. Unlike conventional solid fuel installations, in a long-burning furnace the main heat is generated by gas burned in a separate chamber. Accordingly, by controlling the level of oxygen supply to the firebox, we can easily change the heat release of the entire system.

Choosing a long-burning stove for a summer residence

Actually, having decided to acquire a long-burning stove, the future user faces the question: which one is better to choose? If you are planning to make a pyrolysis boiler with your own hands, then the available options will be limited only by the materials you have, as well as your engineering ingenuity and imagination. We will tell you more about how to make a long-burning wood stove for a summer house later, but now let’s try to give a few useful tips for those who decided not to bother and buy a ready-made heating system.

The main parameters that should be followed when selecting available boiler models are:

• Limitations of the budget allocated for the purchase of a gas generator furnace.
• The area of ​​the house that is to be heated using a pyrolysis unit. Depending on the characteristics and configuration, long-burning stoves can heat from 80 to 250 square meters of living space.
• Operating time of the unit when fully loaded with fuel. There are three subcategories of gas generator boilers: with a minimum operating time (up to 4 hours), with an average heating period (up to 8 hours) and, in fact, long-burning furnaces (they burn at one gas station for more than 8 hours).
• Other technical and functional characteristics of the device.
• Appearance and design of the pyrolysis furnace. Functionality and efficiency are, of course, a priority, but do not forget that a gas generator boiler is also an element of the interior of the house. It is highly desirable that the heating installation fits harmoniously and naturally into the interior space of the room in which it is located.

A few words about the main characteristics according to which long-burning pyrolysis boilers are classified. Based on materials of manufacture, they are distinguished:

The first two are suitable for those who want to get the most compact device, and the last type will appeal to lovers of the classics. Such a brick stove can easily become a highlight in the interior of any home.

According to the method of loading firewood: manually or semi-automatically. The second type will cost more, but will reduce labor costs for boiler maintenance.

Pyrolysis plants can be equipped with various “add-on components”, so they should also be classified according to the presence of additional functional units. They can be a hob or a special transparent fireproof door that can turn an ordinary solid fuel heater into a full-fledged and aesthetic fireplace.

Naturally, you should understand that you will have to pay extra for any design and technological delights. It is for this reason that prices for long-burning gas generator stoves vary in a wide range from 10 to 100 thousand rubles and above.

Installation of a purchased gas generator furnace

Installation of a finished industrial gas generator boiler requires special attention, so we will devote a separate section of the article to this issue. Actually, the general connection diagram for a pyrolysis furnace with a water circuit looks something like this:

It should be noted that this is only one of many options for wiring the heating circuit. Different manufacturers may offer their own schemes, which will differ in some ways. Therefore, in each specific case, carefully study all accompanying devices. technical documentation. As for this scheme, the so-called three-way valve: he is the one responsible for mixing hot water when cold and prevents the oven from overcooling.

The cold water heating mechanism can be implemented differently. Below you can see two more possible connection diagrams for pellet pyrolysis boilers:

The combustion room in which they plan to place the boiler must meet certain requirements:

• be spacious and have high ceilings. Preferably from eight square meters; area and with a ceiling height of two and a half meters;
• have a special platform for installing the boiler;
• the ceiling, like the walls themselves, must consist of a material resistant to temperature and fire;
• the room must be equipped with at least one window opening;
• the distance from the wall to the front of the boiler should be about two meters;
• it is advisable to surround the boiler with an additional brick jacket;
• the room must have a chimney and a ventilation system (exhaust).

In general terms, the boiler installation algorithm is as follows:

	Preparing the furnace room. We remove everything unnecessary and prepare tools and materials for work.
Laying the foundation (installation of a concrete slab) for a gas generator boiler. Preparing the foundation for a purchased stove is not much different from that for a homemade stove; we will discuss this process in detail below. In general terms it consists of the following steps: Pit preparation; Waterproofing the foundation base; Installation of formwork and reinforcing sheathing; Pouring concrete; Laying the stove base: 2 rows of fire-resistant bricks; Installation of a thermal insulation layer and creation of a fire protection area.
	Direct installation of the pyrolysis furnace on the foundation.
	Connection to the heating system (piping the water circuit).
	Installation of a chimney and exhaust ventilation system.
	Switching on and setting up relays and boiler automation systems. Test run and testing of the system in action.

Making a long-burning stove with your own hands

We have figured out the main guidelines in choosing a ready-made long-burning stove for a summer house, and now let's find out how to make such a device at home yourself. In the next two sections of the article we will look at the manufacturing technology of both metal and brick pyrolysis boilers. It should be noted right away that you cannot do without minimal bricklaying skills, as well as the ability to work with a welding machine, so get down to business only if you are 100% confident in your abilities.

Pyrolysis oven from improvised means (barrel, cylinder, thick-walled pipe)

The easiest and cheapest way to assemble a gas generator stove is from an old cylinder or metal barrel. Such a device will not be particularly attractive appearance, however, it is quite suitable for heating a summer house, garage, utility room or greenhouse. In addition, this type of stove is very mobile and can easily be moved to any other place.

Materials and tools for work. Workplace requirements

The basis for our masterpiece of engineering fantasy can be:
	Volumetric metal barrel. Ideally, it should hold at least two hundred liters, have no external damage or signs of corrosion. The metal must be thick enough and durable. It is advisable to choose barrels made of steel - this will have a positive effect on the durability of our heating device.
	A used fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder that has outlived its useful life would also be a good housing for a gas generator furnace. Naturally, their dimensions should be comparable to the volume recommended above for the barrel.
	The cylinder body is one of the most popular for making homemade stoves
	In addition, the body of the future stove can be welded from scratch using sheet steel or cuttings of thick-walled pipes.
Once you have made your choice and decided on the body of the future stove, start looking for additional materials. Namely, support legs for the heating installation. Most simple solution will make supports from:
	Fittings
	Pieces of thin pipes
	Metal profile scraps

In addition to all of the above, we will need:

• Sheet steel from which we can cut a circle equal in diameter to the body of our furnace;
• Pieces of metal profile for making a pressure piston;
• Stove door, which you can order ready-made or make yourself;
• Two metal pipes. One with a radius of about 5 centimeters and a height equal to the height of the stove body +15 centimeters from above, and the second with a radius of 7.5-8 centimeters and a length of about 5 m. The first will be useful in the manufacture of the pressure piston air duct, and from the second we will make a chimney.

Having obtained all the necessary materials, we begin to search for a suitable workplace to carry out all the necessary installation operations. The room in which we will assemble the stove must meet a number of requirements, namely:

• Have good ventilation so that welding can be used in it;
• Good lighting at any time of the day;
• Have an uninterrupted power supply;
• Have reliable noise and sound insulation. During the installation process you will have to use a grinder and welding, and insulation will allow you to disturb your neighbors to a lesser extent;
• Be spacious enough so that we can safely store all the structural parts and tools there;
• Be protected from any atmospheric influences that could lead to damage to the metal parts of the oven.

Instructions for assembling a homemade gas generator stove

The sequence of operations for installing a pyrolysis furnace will look like this:
	We are preparing the body. It will be enough to simply remove the top cover from the barrel, but you will have to tinker a little with the cylinder or fire extinguisher. They need to cut off the top. This should be done using a grinder, evenly and carefully. The cut off part will later serve as the main cover of the structure. You should start sawing a cylinder or fire extinguisher only after you make sure that they are empty and pour water inside.
	If sheet steel was chosen as the basis for the gas generator furnace, remember that square-shaped bodies have better stability than round ones.
	Having prepared the body, we proceed to install the legs. They need to be welded to the bottom of our homemade heater in such a way that the entire structure stands level and stable on them. The correct installation of the legs can be checked using a plumb line or level. If you make a mistake with the length of any of them, just shorten them with a grinder.
	Let's start making the pressing piston-feeder. We cut out a circle of sheet steel with a diameter slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the stove. If the stove is not round, then we select the dimensions of the piston so that it has a small gap with the inner surface of the housing and moves freely up and down.
	In the center of the circle we cut a hole that is suitable for our air duct pipe. We connect the circle to the pipe by welding. After this, we check how the piston will move inside the barrel and how much the pipe protrudes from above the body. This height should be about 15 centimeters.
	We attach pieces of metal profile to the bottom of the piston by welding. They will not allow smoldering firewood to “suffocate” and go out, and will also help improve the quality of pressing the logs to each other.
	Let's start making the oven lid. If this is a barrel, then the old lid will serve as it. Well, in the case of a cylinder and a fire extinguisher, the previously sawed off upper part will come to the rescue. It is necessary to cut a hole in the lid for the air duct, and it is also advisable to weld handles to it, which will make it more convenient to remove it for loading firewood. Remember that the hole should not interfere with the movement of the duct: its pipe must slide freely up and down. Leave a small gap.
	We fasten the door to remove ash. Using a grinder, we cut a hole according to the dimensions of the door, weld the hinges and install our hatch.
	We attach the chimney pipe. The hole for it must be made with a grinder at the very top of the body of the gas generator boiler. We weld a section of the previously prepared pipe under the chimney, taking into account that its shortest length should exceed the diameter of the cylinder body.
	It is also necessary to design control valves for the chimney and air duct. They will help you control the draft and operating time of the heater on one load of wood. Various condensate very actively collects in the chimney of a gas generator stove. Therefore, the pipe must be protected with heat-insulating materials, cleaned regularly, and a container must be installed at its base to collect the released condensate. In addition, it would not hurt to install a protective umbrella-reflector on the top of the pipe, which will prevent precipitation from getting inside it.

Video. How to make a pyrolysis oven from a gas cylinder

Rules for igniting a pyrolysis furnace

The process of lighting a gas generator furnace consists of the following steps:
	First, you need to remove the internal feed piston by first removing the top cover of the device.
	Next, we put firewood into the combustion chamber, pressing the logs tightly together. Remember that to light a pyrolysis stove you only need dry logs. Otherwise, it may go out at any time. The highest point for loading firewood should be considered the beginning of the exhaust pipe-chimney opening.
	Throw a pile of wood chips on top of all the logs and cover them with a rag soaked in fire starter fluid. If there is no flammable liquid at hand, then the rags can be replaced with pieces of paper.
	We put the piston with the air duct in place and close our gas generator stove with a lid. We light a piece of rag and throw it inside through the air duct. In this case, matches will not be able to help us, since they will go out as they fly through the pipe.
We give the fire about 20-30 minutes to burn up. Then we cover the chimney with a damper so that the wood stops burning and begins to smolder. From this moment on, the stove will enter its operating mode, and you will fully enjoy the warmth, comfort and coziness it gives.

Remember that when installing a long-burning gas generator stove in any room, you must strictly adhere to the rules for its use:

• The body of the heater reaches significant temperatures, so keep away any items that may spontaneously combust or are heat sensitive.
• Leave enough free space around the gas generator boiler. Furniture cannot be placed next to it, and the walls themselves can also be damaged under its influence. It is advisable to build a special protective jacket made of bricks around the stove. Brickwork will not only protect things around it, but will also help retain heat for a longer period.
• When cleaning the firebox of a homemade stove, leave a certain layer of ash after each time. It will serve as a protective cushion and prevent rapid burning of the lower part of the gas generator boiler, which can lead to breakdown of the entire device.

Laying a brick pyrolysis furnace

A gas generator furnace can be assembled not only from metal parts, but also laid out using bricks. Before we begin to directly consider this issue, we will need to understand the meaning of some fundamental terms that characterize the qualities of materials for furnace work. Actually, there will be only 3 such concepts: heat resistance, heat resistance and fire resistance.

Heat resistance is the ability of a material to withstand heating up to high temperature and subsequent cooling. During such thermal changes, the substance must not change its structure, geometric shape and chemical composition. At the same time, over the entire range of operating temperatures, heat-resistant connections must withstand the initial design physical exercise and not be destroyed.

As for heat-resistant materials, their main advantage is the ability to maintain initial mechanical characteristics when heated or cooled. The coefficient of thermal expansion of such compounds practically tends to zero. Heat-resistant materials are the basis not only in the furnace industry, but also in the production of mechanisms and machines designed to work in extreme conditions.

Refractory are heat-resistant or heat-resistant substances that are resistant to aggressive chemical environments. In the stove business, they are used to construct chimneys, the inner surface of which is constantly exposed to gaseous combustion products, which often settle during cooling in the form of caustic condensate.

Materials and solutions used for laying various elements of the furnace

Since individual elements of the stove structure carry different functional loads, the brick (as well as the mortar) must be selected individually for each of them. Let's look at everything using the example of a classic wood-burning stove.

1. The “pillow” (also called the “root”) of the stove is the basis of the foundation of the stove made of reinforced concrete. It is poured in such a way as to be mechanically independent from the foundation of the entire building. This condition must be met without fail, since the stove and the house differ in the rate of shrinkage. Filling is carried out in the usual way, no distinctive features not in this process.
2. A layer of waterproofing material. It can be constructed from ordinary roofing felt, folded in a couple of layers on top of the stove cushion.
3. Furnace foundation. Its laying requires a careful and scrupulous approach. An error when assembling the foundation will lead to the fact that the entire structure will have to be rebuilt. Red solid brick - this part will not feel strong temperature effects. Kiln mixtures should be complex, cement-lime, with three or more components.
4. Fireproof blind area with a heat-insulating layer. It is made from a mineral sheet of asbestos placed on top of a sheet of iron. The third, top layer, completes the structure with a felt cloth treated with clay impregnation (liquidly diluted clay, the so-called “clay milk”).
5. The main part of the “body” of the stove, which performs the function of a heat exchanger. The operating temperature of this element very rarely exceeds the threshold of six hundred degrees Celsius, but it is constantly exposed to acrid smoke and the chemically aggressive compounds it contains that can settle in the form of acid condensate. Therefore, the brick for this part of the stove requires a specialized stove, red, solid ceramic type M. The mortar, in turn, is clay, one-component.
6. Stove firebox. In a pyrolysis furnace, it will consist of several chambers, each of which is subjected to a very powerful thermal effect. The temperature inside the firebox can reach values ​​of up to one and a half thousand degrees. You need a special brick, the so-called fireclay, and you need a clay-fireclay mortar.
7. The “source” of the chimney pipe. It must withstand the same impacts as the furnace heat exchanger, so the materials that need to be used for its laying are similar to those in point No. 5.
8. The chimney fluff is a structural element designed to provide an elastic connection between the chimney and the ceiling, preventing its possible subsidence. The brick here needs a stove M150, and the mortar is lime.
9. A fire separator is an iron box, inside of which there is a layer of non-flammable heat-insulating material.
10. The main part of the chimney pipe. They lay it with ordinary red brick, since it is not subject to strong thermal or chemical influences. The solution is lime type.
11. The chimney fluff, which completes the stove structure, is also made from the same materials.

Preparation of materials and tools for masonry

As it has already become clear to you from what you read above, for the stove masonry we will need to stock up on three types of bricks:

• red solid - it will be used to make the foundation and part of the chimney
• red ceramic stove M150 – for assembling the main part of the stove body
• fireclay for laying combustion chambers

Further, we cannot make the foundation of the furnace without cement. Accordingly, it also needs to be purchased. In addition, we additionally buy roofing felt, sheet steel and various auxiliary stove accessories: doors for adjusting the air supply, a hatch for loading firewood, etc. The quantity and type of materials chosen will depend on the specific stove laying scheme that you choose for yourself. We will consider one of them in our article, but you should not limit your flight to your engineering imagination only within the framework of a single instruction.

As for stove solutions, you can easily prepare them yourself. This process is quite labor-intensive and takes some time, but it allows you to significantly save on materials and reduce the final cost of creating a brick pyrolysis furnace. This issue is discussed in more detail and with all the necessary instructions in the article. .

The tools we will need are:

• Master OK
• Roulette
• Construction level and plumb line
• Hammer
• Containers for preparing furnace solutions and pouring foundations
• Shovel
• Sieves for sifting sand and straining clay

Making the foundation of a brick gas generator furnace

Long-burning stoves are distinguished by the fact that they must quickly heat up and switch to operating mode within a minimum period of time. For this reason, the foundation of a gas generator stove must be placed at least at a distance of 70 centimeters or more from the foundation of the building itself. In addition, it is advisable to fill the gap between both foundations with sand.

The process of creating a furnace base consists of the following steps:
	We dig a hole for the foundation. It should exceed the dimensions of the oven by 10 centimeters in each direction. According to our specific order scheme, this is approximately 1.20 m by 85 cm. The depth of the hole should be 70 centimeters
	We put a bitumen-based waterproofing layer on the bottom and sprinkle it with a layer of sand about 10 centimeters high.
	On top of the sand we place a layer of broken brick or crushed stone, on top of which the base of the stove foundation will be located.
	We build formwork from boards and a reinforcement frame, fill it all with concrete.
	After waiting for the solution to dry, we place a layer of roofing felt waterproofing on the concrete base. Then we lay the foundation of the stove on top in two layers of solid red brick, checking the quality of the masonry with a level.
Oven with fire protection area	We complete the structure with a fire-resistant blind area and thermal insulation made of asbestos and steel sheets, covered on top with felt soaked in clay milk.

Basic rules for laying a pyrolysis furnace. Ordinal scheme

When starting to lay a gas generator furnace, remember that you must strictly adhere to the following rules:

• Each of the furnace elements must be assembled from the appropriate type of brick that will withstand all temperature and chemical influences. We have already written about this above.
• The masonry should be carried out strictly according to the chosen order plan in order to avoid mistakes and the need to redo the work again.
• After every 2-4 rows, be sure to check the quality of the masonry with a level or plumb line. You don’t want the oven to turn out crooked, do you?
• In each row (as well as between rows), it is necessary to perform a complete dressing of the seams.
• The width of the joints in homogeneous brickwork should be about three millimeters. At the junctions of fireclay and red bricks, the size of the seams must be increased to six millimeters. The same rule applies to connections between brick and steel elements.
• Seats for various doors and valves should be made with a small margin, taking into account the possibility of thermal expansion of parts. Between the metal and the brick, it is imperative to place asbestos gaskets, or intermediate layers of special building mixtures based on sintering compounds. For example, you can use fireclay or silicone for fireplaces - these materials can withstand high heat and, at the same time, ensure the tightness of all connections of the body and stove fittings.

Finally, as an example, we will give you one of the possible row diagrams of long-burning furnaces. Naturally, before starting construction, you must definitely evaluate the dimensions of the room and the size of the space that you plan to allocate for the gas generator boiler. In accordance with these initial parameters, you should choose the scheme that suits you. It will be quite easy to estimate the size of the future heating installation, because the dimensions of one brick are standard and for a solid red brick they are 25x12x6.5 centimeters.

As an added bonus, we also invite you to watch a video that shows one of possible options self-production of a brick pyrolysis oven. The author demonstrates step by step each stage of stove laying, and also conducts a practical test of his device in action.

Video. Do-it-yourself long-burning brick oven