Long burning stove diagram drawing. How to make a long-burning wood-burning stove for your home. Sequence of actions and design of a long-burning furnace

Solid fuel boilers sometimes become the only option when you need to heat a room. There can be many reasons for this: the inability or economic infeasibility of connecting to the gas main when you need to heat a temporary structure, or solid fuel is more accessible than all other energy resources.

The most economical are long-burning wood-burning stoves, which, unlike conventional boilers, have a higher efficiency. It is quite possible to make such stoves yourself, if you get acquainted with the recommendations of experienced craftsmen. Thus, you will get double savings: on operation and on manufacturing.

What is the difference from conventional ovens?

First, you can consider what disadvantages the owner of a conventional stove faces:

very low efficiency, the level of which can be increased to 80 percent, no more;
You constantly need to ensure that you add a new portion of fuel on time (usually this needs to be done every 2-3 hours);
there is no way to automate the combustion process and thus reduce labor costs.

There are none of the listed disadvantages in top combustion furnaces. We can say that they have become an improved version of the traditional stove, which has not lost its position for many centuries. In addition, it has a lot of advantages, including the almost complete absence of soot, small dimensions of the boiler, and the ability to regulate the combustion process. There are many designs that you can make with your own hands.

Bake long burning is designed so that oxygen enters the fuel in limited quantities. Firewood (coal, pellets) does not burn, but smolders. At this moment they release so-called pyrolysis gas. It goes into a separate chamber and burns out completely. As a result, efficiency increases by another 10-15 percent, and the fuel loading period extends from 8 to 12 hours.

For such stoves, sawdust, firewood, coal and pellets can be used as fuel. That is, it is not difficult to choose it depending on the region and the availability of any type of fuel. When such advanced stoves use pellets, the fuel loading process is easily automated. You just need to monitor the filling of the bunker.

Reference. Pellets are gradually becoming a popular type of fuel. They are easy to use and allow you to save the Earth’s natural resources, as they make this type of fuel from waste from the wood processing industry.

An automated long-burning stove using pellets can operate without human intervention for several days.

Materials and tools

To decide how to make a long-burning stove yourself, you need to prepare all the tools in advance and stock up on materials:

for the furnace body you will need a metal container of at least 200 liters in volume (sometimes they take an empty, out-of-service gas cylinder for this purpose);
two pieces of pipe with a diameter of 10 cm;
metal channel; for body legs;
approximately 60 pieces of refractory bricks (if it is decided to line the stove with bricks);
sheet of metal with a thickness of 60 to 80 cm diagonally;

mixture for masonry (preferably ready-made, but you can make the solution yourself);
hinges for doors;
necessary tools which are used when working with metal (for example, “grinder”);
electric welding equipment, electrodes;
level and plumb lines,
construction tape and other marking tools.

After all materials and tools have been prepared, you can begin the process of making the stove.

How to make a stove with your own hands

When choosing a room where you can make a long-burning stove with your own hands, you need to keep in mind that for welding work you will need access to 220 V electricity.

The body can be made of stainless steel, cast iron or steel. When you make it yourself using welding, you need to take steel sheets with a thickness of at least 4 mm. The most convenient and stable design will be obtained if the body is shaped like a rectangular parallelepiped. But the main thing is to make it airtight.

However, it is easier and more reliable to choose a ready-made container. For example, even a used fire extinguisher is suitable for a low-power oven.

Important! If a used gas cylinder is used for the housing, special procedures must be followed for safety reasons. An empty cylinder always contains gas vapors, which can lead to an explosion. Therefore, before cutting off the “top” of it, the balloon must be filled to the very top with ordinary water.

Separately, another circle is cut out of a sheet of iron with a diameter 2-2.5 cm larger than the diameter of the body itself. You need to cut a hole in it for a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. The pipe is immediately welded into place.

The legs are made of metal channel. They will not only support the base, but also “push” the fuel during the combustion process.

The lid is made separately. They also cut a hole in it for a pipe 10 cm in diameter. A “skirt” is provided along the edges for a tighter connection between the lid and the body.

Holes for the firebox and ash pan are cut out on the body. Metal doors are hung on them, to which handles (from a corner or channel) are welded. The firebox and ash pan are separated by a grate on which fuel must be placed.

Oven base

When making a coal stove with your own hands, you need to take care of a reliable foundation. This must be done, even if the stove is not heavy in design.

There is no need to make a recess for the foundation. It is enough to make a smooth concrete “pillow”.

In order to mark the base of the stove, you can use Construction Materials, like ceramic tiles or bricks. In this case, straightness must be strictly observed, controlling the surface of the base using a mounting level.

Chimney device

When it comes to heating equipment that runs on solid fuel, it is imperative to install a chimney. In this case, the chimney is made from a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

At a distance of 50–100 mm from the upper edge of the stove, a chimney pipe is cut in. This is a length of steel pipe into which the chimney will fit tightly. The smoke channel is made with a small horizontal section - 50 - 60 cm of a straight pipe is enough to weaken the draft. A large number of knees before leaving the premises is not allowed.

A chimney made of several sections is easy to use. This way you can clean it without any problems.

Important! Sections of the prefabricated chimney pipe are assembled in the direction opposite to the movement of gases.

Final stage

After the stove is assembled and installed in a permanent place, it can be given an aesthetic appearance using refractory bricks. As practice has shown, this does not affect the performance of the boiler in any way. There is an opinion that due to a decrease in heat losses, the fuel burnout period increases. However, this has not yet been proven.

Therefore, the owner of the stove can choose whether it is worth spending additional money on covering the stove with bricks, or doing without this step. Sometimes in this way they make a stove for a long-burning greenhouse with their own hands, which is very convenient and practical.

Whatever fuel is used in a long-burning furnace, the operating principle is the same. The pyrolysis process, with minimal access to oxygen, significantly increases the efficiency of the furnace and increases the burnout period of the fuel.

There are some rules for the manufacture and installation of a stove, compliance with which is important for further operation:

For safety reasons, there should be no furniture, objects, or other things for a meter around the stove to avoid a possible fire.
If you install the stove on a small pedestal, then, if necessary, you can easily remove and disassemble the chimney.
Not much ash is formed in a long-burning furnace, but from time to time it needs to be removed, leaving a small layer for thermal insulation of the bottom (thus reducing the intensity of its burning).

To improve performance characteristics, a heat reflector - a metal or foil sheet - is attached to the wall behind the stove. It not only protects the wall from fire, but also returns heat from the wall back into the room.

Of course, gas is currently the most cost-effective and less problematic to operate. But its connection is not always possible. Many regions are forced to make do with other types of fuel. Electricity, although a convenient energy resource, is very expensive. In such a situation, long-burning solid fuel stoves will help out.

The popularity of modern long-burning wood stoves is constantly growing, as it allows you to get more thermal energy at a lower cost solid fuel. This is especially true for settlements, where there is no centralized gas supply, and problems arise from time to time with electricity supply.

The effect of pyrolysis and its application in furnaces

The functional purpose of long-burning heating units is based on the effect of pyrolysis, a process that is the decomposition of natural chemical compounds in the absence of oxygen. As a result, there is a release large quantity heat.

Pyrolysis refers to the decomposition of solid fuel. The fact is that when it burns, it is the gaseous products that are released when heated that ignite, and not the wood itself. Thus, if an ordinary fire is lit, a person is faced with pyrolysis.

The difference is that under standard conditions, wood combustion occurs in the presence of oxygen, and this ultimately negatively affects the overall efficiency of the heating device. A full-fledged pyrolysis process requires limiting the supply of oxidizer and burning gases separately from smoldering solid fuel.

Now there are many options and design solutions for how to make a long-burning stove. Such devices, despite the presence of technical differences, have a similar operating principle.

In order to ensure efficient use of fuel, economy units operate using the pyrolysis process. As a result, the main amount of thermal energy is produced through the combustion of gases that are released as a result of smoldering wood - hydrogen, methane and others. In this case, oxygen is supplied to the furnace in doses using a regulator.

First, the fuel is given the opportunity to burn well for about 30 minutes, and then the access of the oxidizer to the firebox is minimized. Smoldering firewood under such conditions releases the maximum amount of flammable gases, which, when burned in a separate chamber, can provide heating to the body of the pyrolysis unit.

Pros and cons of long-burning stoves

There are many advantages that economical wood stoves have:

Maximum complete combustion of the solid fuel load. For this reason, boilers that burn wood for a long time have excellent efficiency, reaching 85%.
These heating units are quite easy to clean and maintain, since after the wood has burned through, there is practically no ash left.
Environmental friendliness of the pyrolysis process. With complete combustion of natural organic compounds, oxidation products are only carbon dioxide and water vapor. In a pyrolysis furnace, solid fuel decomposes completely, so all kinds of industrial waste can be used as a source of thermal energy, which under normal conditions is allowed to be burned only at a considerable distance from residential buildings in specially equipped landfills.
You will need to load the next portion of firewood or other solid fuel much less frequently, or rather once every 10 to 15 hours, which is an undeniable advantage of these units compared to conventional stoves and potbelly stoves. Some models of factory-made pyrolysis boilers are capable of operating for a longer period of time on one bed.
Fast heating of the coolant, provided there is a heating heat exchange circuit for private houses.
The ability to perform precise and high-quality adjustment of the unit’s power indicator. Under normal operating conditions, it is quite difficult to control the operation of heating devices using solid fuel compared to analogues that use gaseous or liquid fuel. Since in a long-burning wood-burning stove the gas released during the pyrolysis process is burned in a special compartment, this problem can be solved quite easily.

Pyrolysis plants have a number of disadvantages, including:

High price for ready-made heating boilers. This negative point can be eliminated if you make economical wood-burning stoves with your own hands.
Increased requirements for the moisture content of solid fuels. If you decide to use poorly dried firewood and try to put the unit into operation before it is completely dry, the fire will most likely go out and the full pyrolysis process will not be completed.
Quite large dimensions. In addition to the fact that it is necessary to prepare a place for installing a pyrolysis boiler, it will be necessary to arrange the area where solid fuel will be stored.
Inability to provide fully automatic operation. Firewood must be loaded into the unit manually.
When installing an industrial model of a pyrolysis boiler, additional blowing of the combustion chamber is often provided and pumping equipment is installed to circulate the working medium in the heat supply circuit. Therefore, for the uninterrupted operation of the installation, it is necessary to ensure a high-quality power supply.
There is a risk that the pyrolysis chamber may go out as a result of using too cool coolant coming from the heating circuit. To prevent such a nuisance, a bypass pipe called a bypass is installed in the device. Using it, the cooled working medium is mixed with hot water. As a result, the design of the heating boiler becomes more complicated and at the same time its price increases. But a self-assembled pyrolysis stove without connecting a heating system does not have this drawback.

Making an economical wood stove with your own hands

Of course, purchasing a ready-made long-burning heating unit is easier than making it yourself. But, as already mentioned, such installations are inexpensive.

If you want to make an economical wood-burning stove yourself, you can use an old gas cylinder, metal barrel, sheet steel and other available materials suitable for this purpose.

First of all, you need to prepare the basic materials that may be required:

Metal drum with a capacity of approximately 200 liters without rust or other obvious damage. Its walls must be strong, made of cast iron or steel alloy.
An old large capacity fire extinguisher that will make a good base for the unit.
A section of thick-walled wide metal pipe.
An old gas cylinder.
Steel sheets with a thickness of at least 5 millimeters.

A boiler with a round base requires support legs, which can be made from:

pieces of reinforcement;
pieces of thin pipes;
metal profile.

In addition, the home craftsman will need:

Steel sheet having a thickness of 5 millimeters. You will have to cut circles out of it, the size of which coincides with the diameter of the metal barrel.
Metal profile.
Stove door - you can purchase it or make it yourself.
Metal pipe cross section 10 centimeters. Its length should exceed the diameter of the barrel by 15 centimeters.
A chimney pipe is 5 meters long and has a cross-section of 15 centimeters. Read also: "".

The list of tools required for work is small:

stationary or portable electric welding installation;
grinder or autogen;
ax with hammer;
level, plumb line, tape measure.

Of no small importance is the room in which the economical wood-burning stove will be assembled. When carrying out installation work, the home craftsman must have access to power supply at all times, good lighting and an adequate level of ventilation.

You need to choose a spacious utility room with good sound insulation, reliably protected from precipitation, in which you can safely store already manufactured parts of the pyrolysis stove.

The long-burning heating unit is assembled in the following sequence:

Remove the lid from the metal barrel. When a cylinder or fire extinguisher is used for the base, its upper part is carefully cut off with a grinder or using an autogen. Before making a cut, you need to open the valve in advance and pour water inside. There is no need to throw away the top, as it will still be useful. By the way, the square-shaped case, which can be made of sheet steel, is more stable.
Support elements made of channels, tubes or fittings are welded to the round bottom - base.
Next, a pressure circle is cut out of the steel sheet; it should pass freely inside the barrel.
The circle is connected to the pipe. For this purpose, a hole with a diameter of 10 centimeters is cut out in the center of the clamping element and the pipe is welded to the circle. The resulting part, after being placed inside the barrel, should protrude approximately 15 centimeters above its level.
On the reverse side of the circle, channels are welded crosswise, facilitating a tighter fit of the firewood during the smoldering process.
A lid is made for the furnace unit. It can be either the upper part, which was cut off at the first stage, or another steel circle. A round hole should also be made in the lid so that the inner section of the pipe with the pressure circle moves freely under its own weight and at the same time fits tightly to the walls of the structure.
Install the door. At the bottom of the base of the future pyrolysis stove, a hole is cut out for the door and it is secured so that after the solid fuel has burned through, the ash can be removed without any problems.
Install the chimney. For this purpose, a circle with a diameter of 15 centimeters is cut out in the upper part of the body, and the chimney pipe is secured using a welding machine. The main thing to remember is that its minimum length must exceed the cross-section of the barrel or any other base.

It is desirable that the chimney has a valve that allows additional adjustment of the draft force. To clean it, many craftsmen make it dismountable or install a door for cleaning.

You should also insulate the places where the chimney structure passes through the walls, ceiling and roof surface. An umbrella or fungus should be installed at the end of the smoke exhaust pipe - an element that prevents precipitation from entering inside.

After completing the assembly of the pyrolysis device, it is advisable to cover it with brick, which will not only accumulate heat, but will also protect surrounding furnishings from excess fat.

Features of using a long-burning stove and maintenance

Due to the presence of structural differences, long-burning wood-burning stoves have several individual features related to the operation and maintenance of a product manufactured in an industrial environment.

Long-burning stoves are lit in a certain way:

Remove the cover from the unit and remove the pressing circle to which the pipe is welded from the barrel.
Load firewood or any other solid fuel. The stove's maximum load level with wood should be located at the lower edge of the chimney pipe. Firewood must be stacked very tightly, leaving only minimal gaps. On top of the logs you need to place a small amount of dry small branches, which are covered with rags soaked in kerosene or other kindling liquid. When there is no rag, it can be replaced with ordinary paper.
The pressure circle is returned to the barrel and covered with a lid. Only after this is a piece of rag or paper set on fire and thrown inside the pipe with the circle.
To light a pyrolysis installation, you should not use matches, since the time they fly inside the stove will extinguish the fire.
After the fuel burns well, after 30 minutes you need to limit the access of air to the stove using a damper. Then all that remains is to enjoy the warmth and comfort for long hours.

When installing an economical wood-burning stove in a room, you must follow certain rules:

Due to the fact that a long-burning unit can become very hot, any flammable and fusible materials and objects must be placed away from it.
A lot of free space should be left around the pyrolysis device. It should be placed at a distance from interior items and walls so that they are not damaged due to excessive heating. This problem is partially solved by laying bricks along the perimeter of the heating device.
When cleaning the stove, you should always leave some ash behind. This measure can protect the device from burning out its bottom and, accordingly, failure of the boiler.

Types of solid fuel for pyrolysis stoves

Of course, the most best choice Dry wood is considered fuel for such a heating unit. But since one of the main reasons for installing long-burning appliances is saving Money for the heating supply of housing, then other types of combustible materials that are constantly at hand by the owners will also be suitable.

In addition to them, coal is suitable, but this natural fuel is capable of releasing powerful thermal energy. When used, it must be loaded into units with thick steel casing walls, otherwise they will quickly become unsuitable for use.

Today, gas heating equipment is the most in demand, but it is perhaps too early to send solid fuel boilers and stoves to the dustbin of history. In many regions, firewood is much cheaper than gas, and in some places it is the only available fuel, so heat generators running on such energy resources are still needed. Moreover, this equipment is constantly being developed and improved, eliminating many of its shortcomings. Trying to cope with the most important of them - the need to frequently add fuel - engineers created a whole direction, which is usually referred to as “long-burning heat generators”. How to make a long-burning stove with your own hands will be discussed in our article.

Those who have had to heat an ordinary metal stove with wood or coal know well that such a unit does not allow you to relax - fuel has to be added on average every 4 hours.

This state of affairs could not leave the developers indifferent, and many of them thought about creating “long-lasting” stoves. Logic dictated that first of all it was necessary to increase the capacity of the combustion chamber. But this alone was clearly not enough: with normal combustion, even the largest portion of fuel will still be used up quite quickly, it’s just that we will get excess power, and the lion’s share of the generated heat will fly out the chimney.

Construction of a long-burning furnace

It was necessary to find new way burning. Several options were proposed and implemented, and what happened was called a long-burning furnace (they also say long-burning). Some of them are able to work without refilling for up to several days. True, for this we had to give up full autonomy: such stoves require power supply.

Types of long-burning heat generators

So, a stove or boiler with a long burning time can be easily recognized by its huge firebox: instead of the usual 50 liters, its volume can be 100, 150, and for some giants even more than 200 liters. And according to the principle of operation, such installations are divided into several groups.

Top combustion stoves

Convection currents carry the flame upward, so when ignited from above, the fuel burns longer. This simple principle underlies the operation of top combustion stoves. To make the movement of the flame even more gradual, air is supplied in a limited manner and directly into the combustion zone.

Top burning model

Flaws

Since the active zone, that is, the flame area, constantly moves from top to bottom, the air duct has to be made movable - in the form of a telescopically folding pipe. This element is difficult to manufacture; in addition, the likelihood of it jamming increases.
In furnaces of this type it is impossible to install a water heat exchanger - again due to the “inconstancy” of the combustion zone.
Loading a new portion of fuel can only be done after the previous one has completely burned out, otherwise the new portion will light up from below and quickly burn out.
Fine fuels like sawdust often stick to the walls of the firebox.

It is impossible to make a full-fledged top-burning stove at home, but craftsmen have developed several simplified varieties with good performance. The most popular of them is the so-called Bubafonya stove (named after the developer, Afanasy Bubyakin).

Pyrolysis ovens

The operating principle of these heat generators is based on the ability of organic fuel to “melt” under the influence of high temperature, gradually turning into a gas mixture. Its composition is quite diverse - from methane to nitrogen, and almost all components are flammable. In Russian, the process of “melting” wood or coal is called “gas generation”; in Greek, it is called pyrolysis. To prevent the fuel from igniting, air access to the chamber where it decomposes is limited. The combustion of pyrolysis gas occurs in the adjacent chamber, where air is supplied in sufficient quantities.

The pyrolysis oven is a wonderful invention. It not only works for a long time without user intervention, but is also economical (due to the complete combustion of fuel, the efficiency reaches 85%), environmentally friendly (the second name is a smokeless stove) and extremely convenient to use: it is actually a gas stove with a built-in gas generator unit. But it is impossible to make it yourself. The most complex component is the air supply system, which must be controlled by sophisticated electronics.

Forced air

The creators of this heater decided to approach the matter from a different angle: is it not possible to leave everything in the stove as is, but learn to extinguish it and relight it, if necessary, without the help of the owner? Indeed, if such an idea could be realized, the fuel would not burn in the firebox immediately, since the stove would operate in short cycles. Extinguishing a solid fuel stove is quite simple - you just need to shut off the air supply to it.

Scheme of a forced air furnace

But how to ignite it without user intervention? There is no draft in the chimney and if you simply open the damper, the flame will not flare up. There is only one way out - install a fan, which will fan the fire. With his help you can regulate the intensity of combustion, that is, the power of the stove.

For self-production, this option is the most accessible. It is a classic solid fuel stove, equipped with an air duct and an inexpensive automation system. We will create such a heat generator.

Indeed, the fuel supply will burn a little longer, but this mode of operation has a number of disadvantages:

the fuel does not burn completely, which means the efficiency of the stove drops significantly;
the firebox and chimney very quickly become overgrown with soot (smoke is generated intensively);
large amounts of carbon monoxide and other unburned particles (heavy hydrocarbon radicals), which are toxic and chemically aggressive, are released into the atmosphere;
the combination of low temperature and large amounts of smoke leads to abundant formation of toxic condensate in the chimney, which is even prohibited from being drained near garden crops and fruit trees.

Nevertheless, such stoves are quite in demand. They are indispensable in field conditions, for example, on an expedition or at a mobile logging station where there is no power supply. Being able to work on one load of fuel for about 8 hours, even with low efficiency, they allow the crew to get some sleep.

Description of design and principle of operation

In terms of its design, a long-burning furnace with forced air supply is very similar to a conventional furnace, but there are a number of fundamental differences:

The doors of the firebox and ash pan are closed hermetically.
Air enters the ash pan through an air duct, the inlet of which is located on the back side of the stove. The length of this element is selected in such a way that the incoming air has time to warm up well.
A KG Elektronik DP-02 (Poland) fan is installed in the air duct, in front of which there is a light damper made of tin. The forced air flow forces it to rise, but as soon as the fan turns off, the damper slams shut under its own weight and the flow of oxygen into the firebox completely stops. The fan operation is controlled by a KG Elektronik SP-05 controller. It relies on temperature sensor readings. All automation - fan, controller and temperature sensor - is sold as one set.

Note! There are automation kits on sale that look similar to KG Elektronik products, but are of Chinese origin. Their reliability and durability leave much to be desired.

Control unit and fan

The operating principle of this furnace allows heat to be removed not only by air, but also by a coolant liquid - water or antifreeze - without reducing its characteristics. Thus, if the unit is equipped with a heat exchanger, it can be connected to a radiator heating system. Recommended heat exchanger capacity is 50 l. Its main volume will be located above the firebox, and a small part will cover it in the form of a water jacket.

If there is a heat exchanger, the temperature sensor is installed on its wall. When the coolant cools down, it will command the controller to start the fan and the boiler will flare up. As soon as the temperature of the working environment reaches the maximum set by the user, the same temperature sensor will force the controller to turn off the fan. The gravity damper will lower and the furnace will go out.

Calculation of parameters

The calculation of a solid fuel heating device aims to determine two quantities: the volume of the firebox, with which it will be possible to provide the required power, and the dimensions cross section chimney. Let's consider both parts of the calculation in detail and in relation to the furnace we have chosen.

Firebox volume and heating furnace power

It is quite simple to estimate approximately the heat performance of a solid fuel stove. Let's assume that the volume of its firebox is Vt = 50 liters.

We will calculate the volume of firewood placed in it using the formula: Vd = Vt * Kz.

Where Kz is the fill factor of the furnace, usually Kz = 0.63.

Therefore, Vd = 50 * 0.63 = 31.5 l.

The next step is to determine the mass of firewood. To do this, you need to know their density - it depends on the type of wood:

pine - 470 kg/m3;
birch - 600 kg/m3;
beech - 620 kg/m 3;
oak - 650 kg/m3.

We calculate the mass of firewood using the formula: M = Vd * r.

Where p is the density of wood.

If the calculation is performed, for example, for oak firewood, then M = 0.0315 * 650 = 20.5 kg.

We calculate the amount of thermal energy that will be obtained by burning this mass of wood using the formula: Q = M * 0.8 * T * efficiency.

Where 0.8 - this number shows what part of the fuel burns completely (80%);

T - specific calorific value of fuel, MJ/kg:

oak - 20 MJ/kg;
beech - 15.5 MJ/kg;
birch - 16.5 MJ/kg;
aspen - 18.2 MJ/kg.

Efficiency - furnace efficiency: for the unit considered here, the efficiency can be taken equal to 75%.

Then: Q = 20.5 * 0.8 * 20 * 0.75 = 246 MJ.

To determine the heater power, we use the formula: W = Q / t.

Where t is the burning time of one fuel fill, s. In normal mode, such a mass of firewood will burn a little longer than 2 hours, therefore, we take t = 8200 s.

Then W = 246 * 1,000,000 / 8200 = 30,000 W = 30 kW.

But this calculation is applicable to traditional furnaces in which fuel is burned in the usual way. In long-burning heat generators, the mode is somewhat different, and the combustion time of the fuel can change, so the method presented here often gives a large error.

For a more accurate assessment, you should, if possible, use experimental data. Thus, according to the testimony of users involved in the manufacture of stoves with forced air supply, with a firebox volume of within 100 liters, approximately 0.205 kW can be removed from each liter.

The stove, which this article suggests making with your own hands, will have a firebox with a volume of 112 liters. Then its power will be approximately 112 * 0.205 = 23 kW. The useful volume will be approximately 70–80 liters.

Considering that average length the log is approximately 40 cm, let's take the length of the firebox to be 46 cm. Then its width and height can be taken to be 36 cm and 25 cm, respectively.

With these dimensions, the stove will weigh about 150 kg.

The operating time without refilling fuel is 10 – 12 hours for wood and about 24 hours for coal.

Determining the dimensions of the chimney cross-section

The required cross-sectional area of the chimney depends on the power of the heat generator connected to it. The ratio of these values is given in SNiP, dedicated to the organization of heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems:

for installations with a power of up to 3.5 kW, the chimney cross-section must have dimensions of at least 140x140 mm;
with power from 3.5 to 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm;
from 5.2 to 7 kW - 140x270 mm;
over 7 kW - 270x270 mm.

If the heat generator is connected to a round steel pipe, its cross-sectional area should be the same as that of rectangular chimneys listed in SNiP. Therefore, for our stove with a power of 23 kW, the minimum cross-sectional area of a round chimney is 27 x 27 = 729 square meters. cm, that is, its diameter must be at least 30.5 cm.

Materials and tools

To make a long-burning furnace, you will need rolled steel. The ideal option is to make blanks from heat-resistant steel with additions of molybdenum and chromium. As an example, we can cite brands 12Х1МФ and 12ХМ. But you should be prepared for the fact that this material is quite expensive.

If increasing the cost of a homemade “long-lasting” furnace is not part of your plans, use ordinary structural steel. It costs much less than alloyed one, you just need to choose the right brand. The most durable homemade heat generators are made from Steel 20 (withstand 15 years of operation). But you can also use other low-carbon grades - Steel 10, St. 3, etc. Grades with a higher carbon content - from grade “Steel 35” and higher - are hardened when exposed to high temperatures. As a result, they become brittle and are therefore not suitable for making ovens.

Everything is clear with the materials, now let’s look at the specific types of rental products that we will need:

Sheets 3 and 4 mm thick (for the manufacture of firebox and heat exchanger).
Sheets 0.3–0.5 mm thick with colored polymer coating (cladding).
Equal corner 50x4 mm (needed for making a grate).
Pipe with a diameter of 50 mm (we will make heat exchanger pipes and flame pipes from it).
A pipe with a diameter of 150 mm is for the smoke exhaust pipe.
Rectangular pipe 60x40 mm (air duct).
Strip 20x3 mm.

In addition, you will need the following materials and products:

20 mm basalt wool with a density of 100 kg/m 3;
handles and hinges for doors;
asbestos cord (used as a sealant).

The structure will be welded, so the home craftsman should arm himself with a welding machine. You can use electrodes of the MP-3C or ANO-21 brands. You will also need a grinder and a drill with a set of metal drills. Everything else is tools for ordinary plumbing work and a tape measure with a pencil.

Preparatory work

Rolled steel must be cut into blanks. Of course, you can do this on your own - using a grinder, but a more rational way is to order cutting in some workshop equipped with guillotine shears and a gas cutter. The work will be done faster and better. And it won’t cost much more than manual cutting, because grinder wheels also cost money.

Drawing: front and side sections of the furnace

Drawing of a homemade stove

Steel sheets must be cut into parts, the list of which is shown in the table.

Table: quantity and dimensions of steel sheets

It is also necessary to make nozzles from pipes and grate parts from corners.

It is clear that with a weight of 150 kg, moving the finished stove will be difficult. Therefore, it should be assembled directly at the place intended for installation. It also needs to be prepared:

The location is chosen so that the stove is at least 1 m away from the walls. If the walls are decorated with non-combustible material, for example, vermiculite plaster, the specified distance can be reduced to 0.85 m.
A stand is constructed from any non-flammable material, extending 300 mm beyond the boundaries of the stove in each direction. The easiest way is to lay it out of brick.

A basalt or asbestos lining is laid on the floor on the side of the combustion door, and on top of it is a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 1.5 mm. The dimensions of this fireproof coating are selected in such a way that the floor is protected within a radius of 1.2 m from the axis of the combustion door.

Step-by-step instructions with photos

Making a firebox

At the initial stage, all parts - they are cut from a sheet 4 mm thick - are tacked by spot welding. The side walls are welded to the bottom, then the arch (which is also the bottom of the heat exchanger) and the frames of the door openings. What should happen is shown in the figure. As you can see, the bottom extends somewhat beyond the walls of the firebox. Its front part is also the lower frame of the ash chamber opening.

After assembling the structure, all joints are welded with a continuous seam. Then the firebox is checked for leaks.

Firebox assembly

Heat exchanger with water jacket

The outer walls of the heat exchanger are made of sheet steel 3 mm thick. The thickness of the water jacket surrounding the firebox is 20 mm. Its volume is limited by strip sections that are welded to the firebox and have an outlet of 20 mm - the thickness of the thermal insulation. The sheathing will subsequently be screwed to them. The bottom of the shirt is located at the level of the grate.

Water jacket assembly process

The water jacket is reinforced with short pieces of rod called clips. They are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. First, the clips are butt welded to the firebox, then the outer wall is mounted with holes pre-drilled for them. After this, each clip is welded from the outside to the outer wall with a continuous seam.

The clips are welded in a checkerboard pattern

At a distance of 50–100 mm from the front edge, you can install clips made of steel strip: here they are accessible for welding, so they can be welded to both walls without making holes in the outer one.

All joints of water jacket elements must be hermetically sealed.

Flame tubes inside the heat exchanger

These elements are installed in holes made in the front and rear walls. Towards the front wall they diverge slightly, forming something like a fan. Each pipe should be welded at the end with a continuous seam.

Flame tubes fan out

Manufacturing of grates and doors

The “rods” of the grid are made from 50x4 mm corners. It is important to place them exactly as shown in the figure - with an angle down. With this design, the grille becomes streamlined for air coming from below and distributes it more evenly.

Grate drawing

The doors are rectangles cut out of sheet metal, to the inner surface of which a strip is welded in two rows. Between these rows a groove is formed into which the sealant - asbestos cord - is placed. The doors are equipped with factory-made handles and hinges.

Installation of air duct and pipes

The air duct, made of a rectangular pipe with a cross-section of 60x40 mm, is mounted according to the drawing. It must be equipped with a flange through which the fan will be connected. The air duct entrance to the ash chamber is made in the rear wall.

Oven with installed pipes

To connect the stove to the heating system, pipes made of pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are cut into the walls of the heat exchanger.

It is also necessary to install a smoke exhaust pipe.

Installation of brackets and insulation

Brackets are the parts to which the sheathing will be screwed. They are welded to the internal elements of the furnace, as shown in the figure.

Installation of thermal insulation material

Now the heat exchanger with a water jacket needs to be lined on the side and top with basalt wool, tying it with asbestos cord.

Note! The use of glass wool instead of basalt is not allowed, since it melts already at 400 degrees.

Covering and installing doors

There is nothing special to comment on here: the decorative panels are screwed to the brackets with screws, the doors are hung on hinges. After this, they (the doors) should be painted with heat-resistant enamel. Don't forget to remove the protective film from the decorative panels.

This is what the finished product looks like

Installation of automation kit

The fan should be screwed to the duct flange, the temperature sensor is placed under the basalt wool at the rear wall of the heat exchanger. The control module with controller is conveniently placed on the top cover.

Oven operation and maintenance

A long-burning furnace with forced air supply is extremely easy to use:

Fuel - wood or coal - is loaded into the firebox and ignited in the usual way.
By tightly closing the door, the user sets the coolant temperature range on the control module. Do not forget that very aggressive condensate forms on the heat exchangers of solid fuel heaters at low coolant temperatures, so it is recommended to set the lower limit of the range to at least 50 degrees.
Having set the operating mode, the user presses the Start key. The controller starts the fan and air begins to flow into the firebox. During operation, the system independently adjusts the speed of rotation of the blower, bringing the furnace to the power necessary to heat the coolant.

What happens next is in the order already described: the controller, using a fan, alternately extinguishes the stove and then activates it again.

From time to time, the stove and chimney should be cleaned of ash and soot.

Modernization of a homemade stove

Several improvements are available to the user:

A coil can be installed in the heat exchanger to heat tap water (DHW circuit). It is made from a copper tube with a diameter of 8–12 mm and a length of about 10 m. The tube is wound around the flame tubes and both ends are brought out through holes in the back wall.
In case the owners are absent for a long time, a heating element can be installed in the heat exchanger. The purpose of this device is not to fully heat the house, but to prevent the system from freezing. Therefore, the heating element can have a much lower power than the furnace itself: 3–5 kW. There is no need to install any additional automation equipment; just select a heating element with a built-in thermostat (these can easily be found on sale today) and set it to a temperature of, say, 20 degrees.

You can also embed a sleeve into the heat exchanger to install a regular thermometer - this is in case of a power outage, without which the electronic temperature sensor, and even the temperature display, will be inoperative.

Video: how to make a long-burning stove out of brick with your own hands

With the current level of technology development, the owner of a solid fuel stove does not necessarily have to jump up in the middle of the night and run to the woodpile for another bundle of firewood. Units have been invented that can operate without user intervention for several days. Some of them can only be made in a factory, but there are also those that even an inexperienced craftsman can reproduce at home without much difficulty. We reviewed one of these models - a long-burning furnace with forced air supply - in this article. The given instructions with drawings and photographs will help you carry out all the work on manufacturing the heater without errors.

When the budget allows, you can purchase a long-burning stove manufactured at the enterprise. This option has an elegant look and can last a very long time. In addition, the unit is absolutely safe to operate. However, not everyone can afford such a purchase. And then the question arises about making such a stove yourself. It is also called pyrolysis. The creation process is relatively complex and requires strict adherence to all the necessary technologies and algorithms. First you need to thoroughly study how this device functions. You must have experience with metalworking and other turning skills.

Main characteristics and advantages of long-burning furnaces

Long-burning stoves, created independently, can operate on the following types of solid fuel:

firewood;
coal;
sawdust.

The cost of fuel cells is low. For this reason they have become very widespread. The long-burning wood-burning stove has gained great popularity among home owners. It is created at home, called “bubafoneya”.

What is a long burning stove?

There may be slight differences in the designs of long-burning stoves. But the principle of their operation is similar - this is the generation of thermal energy during pyrolysis (not using the open flame method), when the wood is exposed to an impressive temperature with a limited amount of oxygen. And the fuel smolders, forming hot gas. It contains:

Pros and cons of long-burning stoves

The use of long-burning stoves operating on solid fuel in the heating system of premises helps eliminate almost all the shortcomings inherent in standard designs using similar fuel:

Pyrolysis units are characterized by higher efficiency when compared with classical modifications.
Long-burning stoves do not need to be constantly loaded with wood or coal.
The operation of the pyrolysis system can be automated.

A small caveat needs to be made regarding this last benefit. When a homemade heat-generating apparatus is used, there is usually no need for automation, since even one load of fuel cells guarantees uninterrupted operation for 20 hours.

Design features of pyrolysis furnaces

Combustion in a pyrolysis furnace is characterized by low dynamics and high efficiency. It is provided by air supply using a regulator. When the fuel cells ignite thoroughly (approximately 20 minutes after loading), you need to close the air supply hole. This minimizes the passage of oxygen.

The main contribution to heat generation in a pyrolysis furnace is made by flue gases, which are located in a special sealed compartment

The fuel smolders and is almost completely converted to gas. And the flue gases are concentrated in the ignition compartment. When they burn out, a lot of heat is generated. If you try to implement this method of combustion in a conventional stove, directing its operation to smoldering mode, you can cause serious damage to your own safety. In the best case, the gases will rush into the chimney. At worst, they will end up indoors, bypassing doors with weak seals.

Making a long-burning stove with your own hands

Before starting installation and assembly work, it is necessary to correctly calculate the operating mode of the furnace and its design, and then prepare all the necessary materials and tools. We will consider the furnace manufacturing process step by step, starting with the creation of a detailed diagram of the heating unit.

Calculation of furnace parameters according to drawings

To make a preliminary assessment of the upcoming scope of work and the configuration of the main elements of the pyrolysis furnace, it is necessary to study the general diagram of its structure.

For reference, we present a table of the dependence of the main parameters of the furnace on the diameter of its base

Table: thickness of the workpiece and height of the duct ribs for different diameters of the furnace base

Inner diameter furnace cylinder (D), mm	Workpiece thickness pancake (q), mm	Ribs height air ducts (H), mm
300	8÷10	40
400	6÷8	50
600	4÷6	60
800	2.5÷4	80

When the diameter of the cylinder does not fit the values indicated in the table, the thickness is calculated by proportions, focusing on the standard of the metal sheet (its thickness).

The air channels must be made rounded and arranged in a spiral. This will ensure optimal movement of flue gases.

Required tools and materials

A very important stage of preparation is the selection of necessary materials and tools. The key component is a cast iron barrel with a capacity of 200 liters. You can also work with a steel barrel. The main thing is that it has no defects or rust. If there is no suitable barrel available, you can use:

element of a very thick pipe;
sheet steel;
massive fire extinguisher;
unused gas cylinder.

The main requirement is wall thickness. It determines the service life of the furnace.

Other materials:

Metal products for making legs. Fittings, elements of small-sized pipes or channels are suitable.
Steel 5 mm thick. You need two circles that have the same diameter as the barrel.
Ready-made or self-made door.
The pipe is 10 cm in diameter and 15 cm long longer than the barrel itself.
A pipe with a diameter of 15 cm and a length of approximately 5 m. It is necessary for the chimney.

Tools:

Bulgarian. Instead, you can use autogen.
Ax and hammer.
Measuring instruments: level, plumb line, tape measure.

Selection of installation location

After installing the stove, they make a reflector, but plan this before measuring and welding. It helps to optimally direct heat flows so that the room is heated evenly. In addition, the reflector seriously increases the level of safety during the heating process.

The area intended for installation of the furnace must not violate any of the fire safety criteria, since the hot furnace body is a potential source of fire. And this is what it becomes when the user violates the operating rules of this unit by incorrectly calculating the amount of sawdust or firewood.

The oven should not be placed near walls or any flammable objects. Sufficient space should be maintained around it. For example, the distance to wooden walls cannot be less than 25 cm.

Even before the assembly process, it is necessary to select a workspace. All stages of production will take place there. The following criteria apply to the premises:

availability of power supply;
availability of the necessary space;
powerful sound insulation;
protection from precipitation;
ability to store workpieces.

Soundproofing is needed in order not to cause discomfort to neighbors. After all, the work turns out to be quite noisy. You can do without this insulation when the work area is located far from residential buildings.

Step-by-step instructions for self-assembly of a long-burning stove

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Let’s assume that we use what is available in private garages or workshops. These are old gas cylinders. They are prepared for work as follows: the upper side of the structure is carefully cut off. The formed element will become the basis. For cutting, a grinder or autogen is used here.
The top part of the gas cylinder is cut off and a window is made for loading firewood.
After cutting the top side, a side hole is made in the cylinder body. It is needed to load fuel into the furnace during its operation. Based on the parameters of the hole, you need to make a door and then put it in place. The door should close this hole very tightly.
Below the marked hole, another smaller one is made. Ash will be removed through this compartment. It also functions as a blower.
When the cylinder is ready, the next stage begins: preparation of the starting material. Here we take a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a metal sheet. A circle of slightly smaller diameter than the balloon is prepared from it. A hole is created in its center for the working pipe. The circle is put on it and welded.
A pipe is welded onto a circle slightly smaller in diameter than the cylinder and a lid is obtained with which to cover the burning firewood
2-3 channels are welded onto the lower side of the circle. Their role is to increase the mass of the lid.
Then the circle is lowered into the prepared (cut) gas cylinder. After this, holes for the pipe are created in the lid. After which the cover is placed in its position and welded.

Video: do-it-yourself bubafonya from a gas cylinder

Features of manufacturing a sheet metal stove

Let's consider working with a sheet metal base. In his work, the master must precisely:

Calculate the parameters of all structural components.
Mark sheet material.
Process all elements of the device.
Carry out welding operations.

Required conditions:

Modernization of the furnace, increasing efficiency

There are three main ways to increase the efficiency of a stove: one of them is related to the chimney, the second is related to the fuel, and the third is related to operating conditions.

Chimney design optimization

For the chimney, as already noted, a pipe with a diameter of 15 cm and a length of 5 m is used. If you install a smaller pipe, especially in diameter, then it will not cope with the resulting loads. And the furnace itself will operate with reduced efficiency. To adjust the draft, a valve is installed in the pipe. A door is created at the bottom of the chimney for easy cleaning.

Condensation forms and accumulates in any pipes. And in pipes during pyrolysis it turns out even more, since the gases, having parted with all their heat, have negative temperatures at the outlet. This trend becomes the reason for high-quality insulation of pipes. The sandwich technology copes with this task perfectly. Its essence: a second one is introduced into one pipe, and a thermal protection layer is made between them.

You can also make a sandwich pipe with your own hands by wrapping the chimney with insulating material and protecting the structure with an outer pipe

In areas where pipes pass through the roof, it is necessary to perform thermal insulation using a metal box filled with insulation. A deflector is placed on the head of the pipe. It prevents precipitation from entering the system and also protects against the effects of wind.

If the installation site for the stove is a fireplace, there is no need for a reflector. When the stove is located in a room, the surrounding masonry performs two functions:

Protective screen for walls and things.
Heat accumulator.

Since the body of the structure is metal, the oven quickly heats up and cools down. Cooling occurs immediately after the fuel burns out. Therefore, a brick screen created with three sides from the stove, accumulates heat and releases it over a long time. You can use corrugated sheets or a smooth metal sheet as a reflector.

What fuel is better to use in long-burning stoves

The efficiency of the furnace also depends on the fuel used. It is best to use dry logs. But since the stove is homemade, you can save on fuel. The device can even work on waste made from natural materials.

cones;
wood chips;
sawdust;
nutshell;
straw.

Coal gives a good combustion temperature. But its use is justified when the oven is made only of materials with a decent thickness. Otherwise, such a unit will quickly burn out. A table showing the specific heat transfer of various materials can serve as a guide.

Table: specific loading coefficient and specific heat transfer of various types of fuel

Operation of long-burning furnaces

At first glance, it may seem that to fire a pyrolysis furnace you just need to throw firewood into the combustion chamber. This is just a superficial impression. It is important to do the following:

Remove the cover, take out the pressure circle and pipe. Place fuel on the bottom of the stove. The filling limit is the opening of the chimney pipe. Fuel elements are stacked as closely as possible to each other. Light small branches are thrown over them. And they are covered with a rag soaked in kerosene. You can also place paper.
Then the pressure circle must be returned to its place, and the lid must be closed. When the unit flares up, you need to close the damper that conducts the air flow. And she will remain in this position for a long time.

When creating a chimney, be sure to provide convenient ways to clean it. It is best if the structure can be quickly disassembled. When a composite chimney pipe is made, its parts are connected so that the joints are located in the opposite direction compared to the moving gases.

Cleaning and repair of long-burning stoves

If the stove is used incorrectly, its performance may deteriorate and efficiency may decrease. Therefore, periodically check the device for cracks and other defects. It is especially important to study the areas around the perimeter of the combustion chamber door and stove. If serious cracks are found, the defective parts must be replaced. Small gaps can be filled with sealant.

All burnt and cracked parts of the stove must be replaced in a timely manner.

Video: long-burning stove - cleaning and checking

If you have a small house, a garage, or just need to efficiently heat a utility room, a long-burning stove is the best option. Having some experience working with metal and welding skills, such a device can be built in 1–2 days. If the result is successful, you will be able to save money and gain satisfaction from the process of making a useful thing with your own hands.

Reading time ≈ 8 minutes

With the onset of cold days, the problem of heating becomes more and more urgent. Owners of private houses who do not have a connection to central heating can solve this problem by building a long-burning wood-burning stove with their own hands. Such homemade structures will ensure the maintenance of comfortable conditions in cold period time. Such units can be purchased in a store and spend a considerable amount of money, or you can build suitable option on one's own.

Features of homemade long-burning wood-burning stoves

Owners of private houses, when dealing with heating issues, have to decide which heating equipment to give preference to.

There are devices characterized by periodic operation. They provide quick heating of the interior space. After this, the unit turns off, and the temperature in the room drops just as quickly. To maintain the combustion process, stove owners often have to add a new portion of firewood to the heating unit.

The second type of stove is characterized by long burning. This includes not only wood-burning stoves, but also gas generating units. When installing such structures, the owner will need to add firewood several times a day, since the burning time reaches 6-10 hours. However, there are models of stoves in which the process of combustion and smoldering with the release of heat can last up to 20 hours.

A homemade long-burning stove is considered the most preferable option, since it can be adapted to a specific space at the assembly stage.

The design of stoves that require long-term combustion and their operation are accompanied by distinctive features:

for their manufacture, preference is given to steel or cast iron;
the design involves constructing a firebox from two separate parts (the firebox has sufficient capacity, thanks to which a large amount of firewood can be loaded into it);
some models are equipped with an air convection system;
one stack of firewood is enough to operate the stove for a sufficient amount of time;
such unit designs are used different types fuels (firewood and wood pellets);
if desired, the design can be improved by equipping it with a mechanism that allows automatic supply of fuel to the firebox;
such units are characterized by high efficiency;
When introducing such furnace designs, the need to build a special foundation for them is eliminated;
such units are characterized by low weight and acceptable dimensions;
the fuel burns completely, leaving only a small amount of ash;
modern stoves have quite attractive appearance, thanks to which they can be placed in any room, they fit organically into any interior;
such equipment is designed in such a way that the smell of burning and the presence of smoke is eliminated inside the building;
the stove is equipped with dampers and sealed doors, preventing the penetration of fuel gas into the rooms.

Owners of private houses will be able to assemble such structures themselves if they have the appropriate drawings and recommendations.

Models made of cast iron can last for more than fifty years. Such a long service life is ensured due to the characteristics of cast iron. It does not corrode. In addition, cast iron is highly resistant to mechanical damage.

Long-term operation of the furnace is ensured by a special design. The firewood in the firebox is not subject to combustion, but to smoldering.

A large amount of firewood is loaded into the firebox, thereby limiting the supply of oxygen. As a result, the firewood first heats up and then begins to smolder, releasing flammable fuel gas.

Unfortunately, this stove design is not without its drawbacks. These include:

condensation formation;
the shape of the chimney pipe should only be straight;
the possibility of using liquid fuel is excluded.

Types of stoves

Such homemade heating devices will be able to provide a normal microclimate in private houses in which their owners permanently reside at any time of the year. You can also equip country houses with homemade stoves, which are often empty in winter. The owners come, but spend minimal time here.

Such furnaces, if necessary, are installed in other buildings:

greenhouses;
barns;
garages;
storerooms.

It all depends on what goals the owners of the buildings are pursuing.

When choosing models, experts recommend giving preference to the design that is accompanied by the presence of a water circuit. In this case, the stove is equipped with a firebox and an additional water compartment. The oven body will gradually heat up, thanks to which the generated heat will be distributed evenly inside the room.

A long-burning wood-burning stove with a water compartment, built with your own hands, is capable of quickly heating the living space, successfully competing with it in terms of aesthetics.

Depending on the space in which the stove is planned to be installed, the dimensions and optimal shape of the future heating unit are determined.

Long-burning heating units are offered for sale in retail establishments, which are accompanied by a high level of popularity. These include:

Buleryan;
Professor Butakov;
Breneran;
Lachinyanka;
Slobozhanka;
Bubafonya;
Potbelly stove.

Fuel used

It's no secret that firewood is the most environmentally friendly fuel. This category is complemented by dry logs and pellets, since they are obtained by pressing small-sized dried chips and sawdust.

For stoves with long burning, fuel pellets can be used as fuel, which are obtained from the following materials:

cones;
seed husks;
nut shells;
dried citrus fruit peel;
tree bark.

You can also use charcoal, but only on condition that when creating the furnace, the walls of the unit are deliberately thickened. If the walls are not thickened, the oven can be damaged, since it will be subject to intense heat during operation.

Preparing for work

The process of constructing a heating unit involves performing work that is accompanied by the formation of a large amount of dust and increased noise. In addition, this task is labor-intensive, so it is important to properly prepare for the upcoming work.

The space in which work will be carried out must be equipped with a source of electricity. This is important, since it will not be possible to do without electric welding.

Depending on the purpose of use, ovens of identical design may have different dimensions. To understand what dimensions will be optimal in a particular case, it is important to determine the location where the stove will be installed.

The following requirements are put forward for the location of the heating unit:

It is important to provide free space around the stove (the unit gets very hot, so if other interior items are located close together, it can cause them to heat up and deteriorate);
It is not allowed to place flammable substances near the unit;
Before starting the unit, it is recommended to check it for serviceability and successful operation of all modes.

You can prevent premature failure of the furnace if you listen to the recommendations of experienced specialists. In particular, they strongly recommend leaving a small amount of ash inside the oven. This will prevent the bottom from burning.

Construction of a furnace from a metal barrel

If the decision regarding the construction of a homemade stove has been made, you must first prepare all required material, namely:

metal with a volume of 200 liters (it must be made of stainless steel, cast iron or steel);
two steel pipes of different lengths;
Red brick;
metal channel;
construction mixture;
cement.

You also need to prepare tools, without which it will be impossible to perform certain actions. These include:

axe;
welding machine;
roulette;
hammer;
set of electrodes;
plumb lines for installation;
building level;
Bulgarian.

It will be easier to build a homemade stove if you follow the step-by-step instructions:

You need to take a prepared cylinder (it is recommended to use an empty gas cylinder).
Unscrew the valve.
Fill the bottle with water.
Cut off the top part and set it aside (it will be used later).
They take pieces of reinforcement and weld them to the bottom of the barrel, constructing legs.
A circle with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the main body is cut out of a metal sheet.
In the cut out circle, another circle is cut out in the middle.
A pipe is applied to the cut out inner round hole and then welded, which will serve as a smoke exhaust.
On the reverse side of this metal circle, four sections of channel are welded, which are positioned perpendicular to each other.
They take the previously cut off upper part of the barrel and cut a hole for the pipe in its center.
A hole is cut out in the housing, which will be used to load fuel.
A metal door is welded to the cut hole.
A handle is welded to the door.
Below this door, another smaller hole is cut out, and the door is also welded to it.
Next, prepare the place where the homemade stove will be installed (make a recess in the wall).
A layer of brick is laid out at the bottom of the constructed niche and filled with cement.
Check that the constructed site is perfectly level.
The following steps are aimed at installing a chimney pipe. A straight section of pipe is welded to the hole in the barrel.
The main part of the chimney is constructed from a curved pipe.
Asbestos fabric is laid, which will provide reliable insulation.
Attach the clamp.
A special cap is installed on the top of the pipe, which will provide reliable protection from pollution and natural precipitation.
A reflector is installed, which is also called a protective screen for the furnace (it is made of metal or brick).

This completes the process of constructing a long-burning furnace. When operating, such a unit provides a supply of high-temperature air, thanks to which it is possible to heat the interior of the room well.

You can build a long-burning stove that will operate on wood with your own hands. Before starting work, it is necessary to take into account all the recommendations of specialists, prepare high-quality materials and tools. You will also need skills in working with special tools or a specialist of the appropriate level.